Maybe reading comprehension is a problem? I never mentioned having a Mini; I never mentioned MAF _port_. I'm on a Mazda Forum responding to Alex's inquiry re: keeping intake valves clean.

 

LOL it was for "sluggo" that's what happens when you are logged onto 9 forums and responding on different threads while eating breakfast drinking coffee and handing out service orders.
I did go back and somewhat corrected the response to help correct the confusion. Thanks for letting me know.


Buzzard
But if it were MAZDA only then that method should not be used. You will collect fluid in the lower part of the intake manifold. Regardless if you have done this before it oil that does get into the intake manifold via the PCV collects in the lower part of the intake. When you use a cleaning method as you described you first take the chance of harming the IAT sensor and some of the fluid will go to the bottom of the intake and dilute the oil which will then go back into your engine and actually feeding the carbon.
This is not theory but fact. Thats is why I simply suggest that you look into your own intake via a scope. BTW even if the intake was off your engine you would still need a scope to see the lower chambers.

here is the intake. I also have another one that I have cut apart at the seems to view and modify the interior. But that my own personal experiment project. And the need for a better attachment of N2o fittings.

Skyactiv 2.5 intake manifold

 

I instinctively _knew_ you'd respond to my post, jump up on your sizeable soapbox and pontificate about the error of my ways. You did not disappoint.
You fail to take into consideration that there just _might_ be a catch-can in the system. You take for granted that the system hasn't been sized for the application and in _no_ way deposits oils, fluids, or anything else in the bottom of the intake.
But, press on.
I'm sure you need the last word.
Oh, and since you like pictures, take a peek at the before and after from the boys over at LSX Mag & Snow Performance:
https://www.lsxmag.com/tech-stories/...r-your-engine/

 

Catch can generally do not work well. I think I mentioned them in this thread? I tested one for a MAZDA perfroamnce company and after rung 2 on the PCV side and 1 on the breather they still passed oil vapors into the intake. Please again regarding the MADZA intake try to do a little more fact finding before assuming DIY. I posted pictures that I thought even you would understand? I guess i was mistaken their. LOL.
As for water/meth systems... pleeeeeez..... if this was another forum platform maybe you would get a better idea what I know about them. LOL
I have been into that long before these companies and most of them know me very well.
BTW those system are for set boost levels or WOT operation not really for carbon control.
Back in the day it was simple water injection (cant remember the firt big one but I still have parts for it and that was in the 70's and then MrGaskit marketed and even at one time JC Whitney and then Edlebrock hit the market with their adjustable system. Carter also attempted to offer one as well for a short time. I customer made my own system for years . LOL There is a great picture of mine on another platform.

Here are the pictures again maybe study them a little ?
lol








I should make a mention that those water/meth companies if you call and talk to their tech line will tell you that some ECU cannot adapt or adjust for the different in fluid volume of a DI engine and it is strongly advised to have the ECU Performance calibrator for W/M systems.

 

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sluggo48313
I am confused, did you have a N/A MINI and had the supercharger (JCW) installed? Also you have a VersaTune on your MINI?
The word "spraying" and used in the same conversion you posted the means you are running a Water/Meth system? So I presume that you modified it to operation both auto as designed and manual to use as a cleaning system for the inductive system? Those system are designed for WOT or psi (supercharger boost pressure) activated. So unless you did a manual operation they do little for carbon concerns if platform used is primarily a DD?[/QUOTE]


My Mini was an N14 turbo. In 2010 you could get a Mini Cooper S with a dealer installed JCW kit. It had a cat back exhaust, a different air intake, and a tune (there was a serial number of the kit on the valve cover) Made 192 hp (vs 179 for the stock S). There was also a full JCW Factory option. That included the exhaust intake and tune, PLUS a different head, turbo, suspension, big brake kit and body kit. It made 217 hp. Mine was the dealer kit.

I never sprayed or did anything to the Mini other than a couple of intake hoses. I tried a catch can but it didn't seem to do much. I agree with you they don't really help much. There were guys that swore by running seafoam through a vacuum line to control the carbon. Lots of videos and google for that. I had the car blasted and only put a few thousand miles on it after so never tried the seafoam. Sold the car a year ago.

 

I bet you miss the MINI?
My 09 was slightly modded which included my own ECU calibrations and my own built BBW Turbo. And that was a daily driver. Stilli but not as much since we got the Mazda.
The 02 ...well it only will go 129mph which is 1 MPH short of the claimed 130mpg basic stock limit. But then that's the close ration gear set on my custom built 5speed with PG semi cut gears. It whines (noise) like a gear drive on a small block chevy . At 129mph the engine speed is 7500RPM So if you know cars then you can speculate the 1/4 mile and 0-60mph speeds and times are!
oh and a modified (internally) SC with a 3 stage Nitrous system. I give crotch rockets a good challenge in the mountains

As for all those videos most state seat of the pants results about seafoam and not really even a scoped intake or combustion chamber well consider the source?. I can't hold the usual debate because the numbers of DIY way out number me and empirical information. LOL

 

There are inherent issues with direct injection, mostly for daily drivers that don't fully get up to operating temperature. The result is additional soot and carbon that doesn't get burned off.

 

That video would be somewhat accurate if we or I should say he mentioned that it sould be based on early production DI engines. Also Mazda Skyactive engines are a bit different then other platform engines. So while the information about DI information is and should be considered general.
The shortcoming are IMHO basically no explaining what operating temperatures are? This leads some to think they do not achieve on short drives ? Maybe because he forgot about Ho2's CAT temps, EGTs ,ECU tinging and fueling, and that all to present coolant temperature indicator during the engines first start up?
As for the information on the oil, well best thing there is get your oil analyzed and see real world empirical data and information about exactly what is going on in your oil. Or that you research EMPIRICAL DATA presented by sever dozen members on this forum that have submitted and posted Oil Analisis.

Your video the author and "STAR" is not even in the automotive engineering capacity, nor does he even have credential as a Manufacture trained automotive technician, ASE or for that matter as far as I could research NO auto mechanical credentials at all? What I did is that he or other sponsoring him may have gotten a partial agreement and possible some reimbursement from the advertising and customer service department under Global ExxonMobil

 

I just sold my 2013 Mini JCW and bought a used 2021 CX-5. It is sad to hear this is still a problem. I owned a 2009 Mini Cooper S (n14 engine) before the JCW and it was an absolute pig on loading up the intake valves. The 2013 had a redesigned n18 motor with a different head and valve cover that incorporated a sort of built in catch can which greatly reduced the amount of oil being sent down the intake runners. The BMW forums had a member called E90man who 3D prints custom shop vac wands that plug right into the intake port for walnut blasting. The attachment worked like a charm allowing you to send walnut shells into the port, blast the buildup off the valves, and then get sucked into the shop vac. No muss, no fuss. If E90man is still around I don't see why he would not print up one to fit the skyactive intake port as he did print up one for the mini crowd.


Here is a link showing how I did it. I took the pictures while I was blasting. No mess at all really the wand plugs right into a standard vacuum hose, then into the intake port.. I had a 3 hp shop vac and it always maintained negative pressure in the port while blasting so everything just went up the shop vac hose. I used a harbor freight spot blaster. Blast for 10 seconds, turn hopper feed off and blast air for 10 seconds. Lather, rinse, repeat.

. http://www.northamericanmotoring.com...-valves-5.html

 

I know who E90man is and been around that forum years before him
But I am more known for my R53 not my R56 on that forum.


I do not recommend that if you own a Skyactiv Mazda engine to do a DIY carbon cleaning. I would be surprised if it were any concern with an engine at least for the first 100k miles. And if it were that bad you have other issues causing it that need to be addressed.