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So ... Given my problem, how much do you think a dealership will charge?
I doubt any dealership would do this repair. My guess is they would want to replace the complete engine. It is too costly and labor intensive for them to do that repair in the correct manor needed. In fact, I would be surprised if any independent shop (reputable) would do it unless they pulled the engine and sent out to a machine shop for the proper way to replace a broken stud. I would suggest finding someone that will R&R the engine and find a used low mileage engine with a small warranty that are available from several businesses across the US purchase it and have it sent directly to the service shop or place you contracted someone to R7R the complete engine.
Or because of the location and that it is a daily driver and the tortional stress on that part of the lower crankcase would not be effected, then roll the dice and carefully extract the broken stud and replace it alone?
For sheets and giggle only and only this .....
I would like to see the nut and the broken stud, and the area of the lower crankcase sprayed with brake clean because it will clean the surfaces and not leave any residue, and when cleaning being careful not to disturb the material in any way. I might/may be able to get a better idea the cause of the broken stud?? Not that it would serve any purpose except to rule out lifting or walking or distorting of the parts in question.
Yeah, I had the same thought as you do. Dealership would replace the engine instead.
$800 is the quote!
At a dealership to R & R an engine only is about right. Plus, you would need to add about another 200+ dollars for misc. wear parts that they would be required to replace unless you sign a wavier. And that would not be wise.
Those bolts are very high tensile so drilling it and an easyout might be out of the question but another thought is it may not be tight in the thread so a bit of patient tapping with a thin centre punch may be able to get it to turn out. A couple of revotutions then there should be enough length to grab it with a set of vyce grips.
it is a harden stud that is torqued in place with a computer programed assemble machine set to install all the suds in one step and all the exact torque value to insure no case defection . The only possible idea would only work but the drill bit to do it would require the use of a carbide drill bit and a variable speed adjusting drill to get the exact drill speed and a portable drill guide . Then while that is fairly easy for someone that has done it the real challenge is finding a smaller harden bolt that you can double nut and hope that it will not break the freshly drilled and tapped stud . So without removing the complete lower crankcase it is at best a hail marry service . The lower crankcase is aluminum so any slip up could damage it rendering the engine in a greater damaged state than to start with.
looking at the first posted pictures there is no room to use vise grips or any other stud removal tool.
It's a long bolt so I think 2 feasible ways of getting that broken bolt out. One is to drill and tap a left hand threaded hole into that bolt and use another bolt fitting into that hole to remove it. Two, to weld another bolt onto that broken bolt and use it to turn the broken bolt out. There are some vids out there that show a few ways to remove broken bolts like this.
In any case, dealership would charge $200 for "diagnosing" if they didn't get the job. In conclusion, they got the job and life moves on.
