I believe if it is not a clear warranty brakes are not covered because for most customers and how auto manufacture view them is normal wear parts not covered by the warranty. So, you are fortunate that your dealer did what they did as a courtesy!
You can contact MAZDA USA and ask them, and they will explain in better detail about brakes and what is and is not covered under the warranty.

The subject of brakes and WARRATY consideration has been a topic on a few MAZDA forums and many members belong to those other forums all know the same result. The member is pissed off because MAZDA and or the dealership did not warranty brake s specifically rotors and pads for most of them. There were some cases that MAZDA did not cover them, but the dealership did a courtesy adjustment for their customer.
Not all dealerships are bad, and some will work with you but most of the time when it comes to item in question about warranty coverage it is all about your attitude when you talk to the dealership. Be nice if they deny a claim be nice ask them to forward the claim directly to MAZDA. As nicely for the documentations from MAZDA about the claim responses. DONT DEMAND! BE NICE!!!

 

I guess I have been lucky over the years as I have had resurfacing and even new rotors under warranty with past cars (no, not all Mazda products Cali ). In a '16 Acura RDX they first resurfaced, then replaced the rotors when I had pulsing (all under warranty). I have also had VW's which had rotors turned under warranty. I get the "wear" aspect, but brake rotors shouldn't be having these issues under normal use in under 10k miles either. I also had a pulsing issue in my current '20 Frontier. They resurfaced the rotors twice, at no cost, which finally cured the problem. This may beg the question, is it something I am doing to cause the issue, but I drive the 21 CX-5 no differently than I drove the '19 CX-5, and it never had an issue (with even smaller rotors up front).

 

Not going to quote anyone. Not trying to argue or debate mainly because there is no same frame of refernace.....
Here's the thing when I read some responses on "forums" not just Mazda forums .... I often go but don't take it personal. If I only could let people in my mind (perform the Vulcan mind meld) so they can get a reference to how many brakes parts I have warrantied in a few decades dating back to the mid 70's and almost all of them were more or less doing a courtesy "1 time" replacements (until a period when there were life time warranties on all aftermarket parts until the suppliers finally had enough of the abuse from basically dis honest people and those taking advantage of the warranty. You know who you are. ) machining my own rotors for various projects and BBKs that are all over the world and never had any warrantied to date since first offering them in 2006, knowing that the material on the rotors is pretty consistence regarding OEM parts and also the pads, Ya its really about how people drive and use their brakes and nothing really having to do with any defect or short coming on the pads or rotors.
And let's see I have personally owned over 200 to date automobiles and NEVER had a rotor or pad that was true "DEFECTIVE" after servicing the brake systems on many of them with new brakes, shoes, rotors pads, brake lines, wheel cylinders (what are the odds lol ) . Yes I have had rebuild master cylinders that were defectively rebuilt, as well boosters but not new parts. But going back to customer satisfaction in servicing at various shop I have owned and worked for I have always practiced trying to satisfy the customer and eating a few brake parts just for that reason knowing very well they fried their brakes.
So, I would love in any member still has those defective parts brake pads or rotors and would like to post some picture using a good high definition camara?
Ya sees there are very clear indicators that can't be hid if in fact they were defective, or driver worn.

 

I get it. I am sure many cases are driver produced, but I can tell you I don't drive my car like I stole it. I don't take offense at your post. I have yet to get the parts back from a warranty repair and don't expect this will be any different if they do replace them for free. I asked another personal mechanic friend (recently retired, he worked for a large multi-make dealership in the collision center after working for their VW dealer for many years). He suggested new rotors and pads (if they are less than 50%) as well.

 

My kind of service tech!

 

From motorcycle experience I'd have to say it's nearly always how you drive.
That and the fact that on none of my cars/trucks/SUV's have I've never had to machine any rotors, though I have replaced a few but only for upgrade purposes.
I've actually warped a rotor in a single race once on my Suzuki SV1000s and I solved that by changing the complete front braking system.
Most street drivers will never create enough heat to do that...except the ones who ride the brakes like my grandmother used to do and also required the rotors to be turned.
Thankfully there were no rear disc brakes bake then.
My wife used to go through pads twice as fast as I did on her vehicles with the occasional rotor turning required.
I explained to her to start applying the brakes gently and come slowly to a stop. I used a bottle of water to show when braking properly the water level barely moves.
She was quick learner and her brake service intervals stared equally mine.

 

If you put together on one sentence the RED.... that would be most average drivers...
Most members on forums always claim they are experienced drivers and know how to drive and brake.
Yet the reality if any or most all of them took a sport or defensive drive coarse they would quickly find that they don't! If the instructor uses a POS car with worn tires and factory worn in brakes and you get a track set up car with good tires and brakes and he drives around, you (Laguna Seca aka Mazda Raceway) like you just learned to drive you learn quickly that you don't know how to drive as well as you thought!

As for disc/Rotor trueness. almost everyone if off slightly. On customers vehicles it has always been a practice to check the trueness of even new disc/rotors. About say 1/2 need a little cutting. My guess is simply production level manufactured and packaged less concerned with getting out of tolerance? Even OEM new I have very few times ever found one that was close to .003 or less and the cutters used where about medium values. Checking customers new rotors Saves returns tremendously for that simple extra 15 minute of checking.
On my products that I machine the rotors most from a semi-finished special order disc O always machine them to .001 or even .000 and use a 2k cuter. I store them no more than 4 high and they are well boxed.

 

That last post is pretty telling if you are saying in general only 50% of factory rotors are within spec when new. This could explain a lot. I had a 2011 Tacoma which went 60k on its original rotors/pads. After replacement, I had issues with pulsing 20k later. I guess the OEM rotors were pretty good!

 

Mazda as well many auto manufactures do an axle wheel balance which will compensate for almost all balance parts in a rotating assembly unlike getting the brakes serviced and wheel balance off the vehicle.
I should have been clearer that OEM none factory installed discs/rotors if mic'd will show a slight measurement from .001-.003 which is well in normal clearance and would not cause any detection by most drivers nor cause any premature or concerning uneven pad or disc/rotor wear. Aftermarket rotors are all over the place for run out even if most mic'd are withing those run out measurements stated to be within tolerance either by the OE or the aftermarket supplier/manufacture. But that gives very little margin for normal wear and having no brake concerns even like light braking noise. That is often a sign that the matting surface are not mated or the pads were not bed in when new or at all? Thats why I personally check all disc's/rotors before installing them to rule out any possible problem. During the bed in for new pads to disc/rotors or pads by themselves the closer the disc/rotor is to .000-.001 machined tolerance the better overall wear and braking