I'm trying to hardwire a dashcam into my new 2021 CX-5 and am running into some trouble with the add-a-circuit. I'm using a from Amazon and it just won't stay seated in the fuse slot. As best I can tell it's because the fuses are slightly recessed in the box and the add-a-circuit can't insert far enough to make a solid connection.

Has anyone successfully used the add-a-circuit method to hardwire a dashcam on a 2021 model year CX-5? I've seen but that was for an earlier model year.

If yes, what add-a-circuit did you use? Thanks!

 

Order this kit from Amazon.

3 Types 12V Add-a-Circuit Adapter & Fuse Kit - Muhize Fuse Tap Fuse Holder with Standard Mini and Low Profile TAP Blade Fuse for Cars Trucks Boats (9 Pack).

It will have the correct adapter for the fuze block in your Mazda. I added 2 circuits to my 2020 and they work just fine.

 

Those look the same as the ones I ordered. You didn't have any problems with them not staying seated and falling out?

 

No, the Amazon package has three size taps. The mini ones are designed for the type of fuse in the CX5. The part that inserts into the fuse block inserts completely just like the fuse does. I'm running one tap for a two way radio and one for a scanner and have had zero problems with them. The downside of ordering the Amazon kit is that you are left with the 6 taps that will not work in the Mazda---except in the under-hood fuse block. BTW. the Amazon kit was $9.95 when I ordered it about 6 months ago. If you do get it, just remember to make sure you insert it into the fust block correctly. If you insert it wrong, you will be applying power to whatever you are hooking it up to without going thru the fuse--not a good idea.

 

Did you use the low-profile mini or the mini ones from the pack?

 

Not sure of the nomenclature, but I used the smallest ones, with the shortest prongs. They match the fuse size. Hope this helps.

 

These simple. Make sure you us a fuse that is less then the fuse you are tapping power from to protect both circuits.




You can even piggy back them if you keep steeping down on the final fuse number (amp)
Always remember that all circuit have a load limit so dont get carried away with to many accessories on one factory circuit. The better way is to build a dedicated circuit powered directly from the battery with its own fuse panel.

 

Actually, one puts the original fuse for the car circuit back in the fuse holder position that is NOT in line with the wire on the fuse tap. The tap that feeds the wire is drawing power from the fuse block buss which has LOTS of capacity. The fuse feeding the wire needs to be the appropriate size for the load you are powering. I'm guessing a dahk cam could be wekk protected with one of the 5A fuses that come with the taps.
I powered my 2-way radio with a tap plugged into the windshield wiper fuse. I put the original wiper fuse back in the fuse position that IS NOT in line with the wire. This protects the wipers. I put a 15A fuse in the fuse socket that is in line with the wire to protect my radio circuit and it works fine.

 

LOL I simplified it and please dont correct my work it is not only accurate but I responded in a simple to understand response to the poor guy wanting a DIY answer for a easy task!

And BTW re-read what you said because your that last response has some interest wording relating to understanding the 12 volt systems and load circuits and capacity . LOL


This was one of the pictures I took along with the other pictures posted but I felt in my humble opinion it would be to confusing for some. But hey we have smart guys that can figure it out LOL

I run several add on controls gauges, gauge lights, additional USB charging ports and even a none factory glove box light and CD player oh and a front and rear DASH CAM LOL


You can only barely see it but EVERY added wire is ID tagged!

ASE

 

You?... "Humble opinion"? ....BWA-HA-HA-HA,,,,