Thanks for your reply and answer. I did mention at a microscopic level. I'm not sure if the amount of oil being burned. As a tablespoon or 2 would not even be measurable. I bet some of these people on the forum with higher oil usage would be ecstatic about only burning a tablespoon or 2 per oil change. 😊

 

I know it does not seem that that amount is much but if during my time owning a perforce engine machine shop if any engine, I built used that much oil after several thousand miles there is something I did less the best during the machining and assembling of the engine? It is a lot of oil you can except that and believe it or not. The oil control rings the type of hone on the cylinders, the valve stem seal is all engineered and installed to control less than a faction of what your are suggesting.

Now I can totally understand that you can keep thinking your volume, but it would show if anywhere else on their spark plugs. 95% of people do not even really know how to read a spark plug and those posted charts are over 75 years old. LOL

My suggestion is pull a head on an engine that has been compression and leak down tested to be close to the high end of the specification and examine the head and the cylinder walls. If the parts are all doing their job you wont even feel a film on the cylinder walls or anywhere around the valve guides. PERIOD!
If you don't want to do that then get an EGA (exhaust gas analyzer) stick it up the tail pipe and see what the readings are. If oil is present it is going to show in the analysis of the exhaust in a raised hydrocarbon and carbon monoxide levels

 

I am not quoting any one particular members
This way no one can feel butt hurt!

Microscopic level of oil remaining in the combustion chambers... lol
I raise you.... Plateau honing with plasma ceramic total seal rings LOL
Look it was a nice thought on your part but honestly you are reaching now. It is clear that you do not even understand how pistons rings specifically oil control rings work. It is also clear that you have no idea how valve stem seal and guides work either. So, you can continue to be responded with your interesting thoughts and maybe you might change the minds of other that also believe in a Flat earth but in the big picture I am not sure what you are trying to accomplish at this point.
And I am even not sure how one would go about to measure the amount of oil left in a completely drained engine to see many aspects of measurements. What IMHO a useless task to write a technical article on?

In my teens I once one time ground and polished the complete valley of a small block Chevy thinking that it would return the oil faster to the sump. Then someone asked me why would every drop (1-2 spoonful of oil) matter. After I spent perhaps 70+ plus hours grinding and polishing I honestly could not think of a legitimate reason just that no one did it and it made sense to me. I finally came up with the answer why I did it and everyone knowing me understood it. Cuz no one did it and it looks "KOOL"!
I have the pictures...

 

Cool. Sorry bro for my ignorance. You rock.

 

Just want to reinforce the transmission service advice to Vroom Vroom. I did two drain and fills on our 3 sport before the filter change and the blue oil was anything but blue. After the filter change and cleaning the pan and magnet i had a big improvement in color and shifting. If your kit has a gasket use it and a torque wrench.

 

I had the transmission pan off my CX-5, three maybe four times during my ownership. Each time I refitted it I used genuine Mazda sealant, no gasket. Never had a problem.

 

Yes but you are a professional
Heck for me I just seem to get sealer on everything....

 

 

......

 

This sounds normal - for a turbo which in effect uses the engine oil to cool the turbo- thus engine oil goes thru the turbo which gets very hot and desecrates the oil more rapidly than non-turbo combustion engines. If you are spooling the turbo frequently and drive aggressively it can shorthen oil life quickly --- If you treat your vehicle well , allowing turbo cool down after spirited driving and perform frequent oil/filter changes -you should be fine - I wouldnt be concerned about blow-by or oil leaking past the rings with this young of an engine. If you see a loss of a quart after low mileage ( 3000 ) oil changes - then you may have cause to be concerned - Keep performing the engine oil / filter service - There appears to be a few people on the net that like taking shots at Mazda and exaggerating reports of burning oil in these high compression skyactive engines at low mileage -- If you break it in correctly you should have no issues as these engines are what make Mazdas great - Theres a few others in here going off topic into transmission services - which I will not reply to because it creates confusion and is why we try to stay on topic --in this case - dirty engine oil - Remember Mazda dropped the compression in the turbos 10:1 from 13:1 usa -- because when the turbo comes on it increases pressure in the head by as much as 17:1 and thats one reason the turbo engines take more stress -- keep that in mind if you seek longevity