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2022 CX-5 4 Pin Tow Connector, No power to Brown (Running Lights)
In a bit of a pickle with this one. Installed a hitch and a 4 pin connector. Connector is very easy to install (My 3rd install of these). Connects inline to tail lights, one wire to battery and one to ground. Have never had an issue.
But on this one, no matter what I do, I cannot get any power to come out of the brown wire on the 4 pin. Tested on the trailer, tested with a multi-meter directly at the vehicle, nothing. I even had Etrailer send me another wiring connector assembly thinking the first one was bad and the new one does the exact same thing.
All other lights work. Brake, turn, hazards, but no running lights.
Thoughts? Internet seems to think there is a "tow" fuse but that is typically on trucks I am seeing. I have gone through pretty much every fuse on the CX and all appear good. (continuity)
Stumped on this. Think it could have anything to do with the CX being LED lights?
Last edited by Anthropic; Apr 10, 2022 at 08:01 PM.
Having the exact same issue here with a 2022 CX-5 Turbo as well. Everything seems to work fine except the running lights. Hopefully someone can find a solution.
Having the exact same issue here with a 2022 CX-5 Turbo as well. Everything seems to work fine except the running lights. Hopefully someone can find a solution.
Talking with Etrailer and the MFG (Tekonsha) they had issues with these as the CX-5 has a couple configurations for how their running lights are wired. their suggestion was to just splice the running light in manually. They removed the old ones off of Etrailer and the only one they offer now is a 100% splice in option, no pig tails.(for 2022) I will just keep mine and am planning on splicing just the running light wire in. Have not done that yet.
Talking with Etrailer and the MFG (Tekonsha) they had issues with these as the CX-5 has a couple configurations for how their running lights are wired. their suggestion was to just splice the running light in manually. They removed the old ones off of Etrailer and the only one they offer now is a 100% splice in option, no pig tails.(for 2022) I will just keep mine and am planning on splicing just the running light wire in. Have not done that yet.
Thanks a lot for following up! If you do go the splicing route and can share a brief description of how to do so, it would be great appreciated. I have no clue how to do that on my own. Thanks!
Thanks a lot for following up! If you do go the splicing route and can share a brief description of how to do so, it would be great appreciated. I have no clue how to do that on my own. Thanks!
Will do! Have a camping trip this weekend so I will try and figure that all out sometime this week.
Will do! Have a camping trip this weekend so I will try and figure that all out sometime this week.
Ok! I have a good update to share. I have figured out the correct running light wire on the vehicle and spliced in the trailer wiring. All works as it should now!
The best part is that I did not have to splice into any of the Mazda factory wiring. Only re-wiring the tow connector harness.
Basically, the brown wire from the tow connector (coming out of the black box) is currently spliced into the wrong pins on the vehicle end connectors. The correct pin is directly opposite end of the connector and diagonal (white) as shown in the images. You should confirm with a voltmeter that this is indeed the right pin on your vehicle (12v coming out with running lights on). I assume it is though. Mine is the Premium model (running lights active on the hatch).
The work will all take place on the driver side connection only as that is where the running light wire from the tow connector goes.
To fix the issue:
Open up the cargo area to access the wiring connectors.
Remove the wiring connectors from the vehicle ends.
Cut the 2 brown wires coming off the trailer wiring after OR before the little black box. (the little black box is simply a splice connection). I chose after. Does not matter. The brown wire from the tow harness is the trailer running light wire.
On the harness, splice the now 2 hanging brown wires back together.
Locate the correct wire (12 v running light), I am pointing to it in the pictures below, but please confirm prior to splicing for your specific vehicle.
Take a new piece of wire, or directly connect the brown wire to the white 12v running light wire. (I used a jumper wire as shown below, in red)
Button everything back up and you should be good to go.
Total working time was about 1.5 hrs.
I recommend soldering and heat shrink for the connections. I did not have any heat shrink so I went with electrical tape and zip ties. Splicing connectors would work as well if you do not have a soldering iron.
Splices shown:
12V Running Light Wire:
Newly Spliced Connections:
Re-Installed on Vehicle:
All Back Together and Working:
Last edited by Anthropic; May 25, 2022 at 05:03 PM.
FYI: A thought for those who have not yet purchased a hitch.
The Mazda OEM wiring harness is plug-in and comes with the OEM trailer hitch.
You will pay a maximum of about $50 less on an after-market hitch but they don't come with the built-in connect bracket and cover to plug in your trailer.
The OEM hitch while smaller in size also hides under the bumper and prevents you from hitting it when the receiver is removed.
Your shins will thank you.
Ok! I have a good update to share. I have figured out the correct running light wire on the vehicle and spliced in the trailer wiring. All works as it should now!
The best part is that I did not have to splice into any of the Mazda factory wiring. Only re-wiring the tow connector harness.
Basically, the brown wire from the tow connector (coming out of the black box) is currently spliced into the wrong pins on the vehicle end connectors. The correct pin is directly opposite end of the connector and diagonal (white) as shown in the images. You should confirm with a voltmeter that this is indeed the right pin on your vehicle (12v coming out with running lights on). I assume it is though. Mine is the Premium model (running lights active on the hatch).
The work will all take place on the driver side connection only as that is where the running light wire from the tow connector goes.
To fix the issue:
Open up the cargo area to access the wiring connectors.
Remove the wiring connectors from the vehicle ends.
Cut the 2 brown wires coming off the trailer wiring after OR before the little black box. (the little black box is simply a splice connection). I chose after. Does not matter. The brown wire from the tow harness is the trailer running light wire.
On the harness, splice the now 2 hanging brown wires back together.
Locate the correct wire (12 v running light), I am pointing to it in the pictures below, but please confirm prior to splicing for your specific vehicle.
Take a new piece of wire, or directly connect the brown wire to the white 12v running light wire. (I used a jumper wire as shown below, in red)
Button everything back up and you should be good to go.
Total working time was about 1.5 hrs.
I recommend soldering and heat shrink for the connections. I did not have any heat shrink so I went with electrical tape and zip ties. Splicing connectors would work as well if you do not have a soldering iron.
Splices shown:
12V Running Light Wire:
Newly Spliced Connections:
Re-Installed on Vehicle:
All Back Together and Working:
Thank you so much for your very detailed and helpful tips! I just have a question regarding the white ground wire...I saw in your picture that you have an additional black wire together with the white ground wire? where does it connects? Once again thank you for the infos! BTW, Tekonsha released a new part number that is said to be compatible with the CX-5 and CX-50...Part number is 118871....Also eTrailer just released a video in youtube that is said to be guaranteed to work with the 2022 and newer CX-5 and CX-50 and the part number is TK85VR