I bought this car used, and the only thing I didn't like about it was the mushy brake pedal.
On a recent trip I had to do a panic stop and was disappointed with the reaction time and stop distance.
I'm a Mechanical Engineer and was in automotive brakes for 20 years, so I did brake job (Akebono ceramics front and rear, new front rotors).
Pedal is still mushy.
Not sure about stopping distance yet as the pads are still bedding in.

Any other ideas for the mushy pedal?
Yes, I bled the calipers also.

 

If you have experience then you know the usual suspects to check? The pads you used at least should have improved even OEM brake pads for brake feel and response. Not sure what you used for disc but that is secondary to your question.
The other fact is unless you drive the same year and model Mazda it just may be what you are describing that engineered brake feel. Now if you have access to an accelerometer and can measure on a clean flat tarmac surface the 60-0 mph stopping distance you really can not say if you are close or way off? My 09 MINI stop on a dime literally and you know when you are stopping where as my Mazda that weighs 500lbs more (stock) then my MINI tends to feel like ... well you will stop but not as impressive as my MINI.

You may want to scan the ECU for any pending and or permanent DTC as well the ABS system. You may simply need to do a full-service flush and replace of the complete brake system brake fluid not just at the caliper and master cylinder which does not replace the ABS pump and block . But again I know you know that with your 2 decades quote "was in automotive brakes for 20 years"? (what does that mean exactly?)

I am glad to read you bed your pads in. Now did you check and true up the rotors or just out of the box?

 

not the same manufacturer but could it be the ABS module?...at least that's what the issue was on my mom's '11 subaru outback and my '13 subaru legacy had the same issue when i got rid of it (did not fix)...but this was bad to the point where the pedal went to the floor...good luck

https://www.subaruoutback.org/thread...ystery.565861/

 

This part is good ^^^^^^^^^^^

The Mazda ABS and ECU in the Skyactiv models is not the same as other platforms and many service having to do with the ABS system should only be done under the service guides for Mazda only.
And this is very important so that you don't damage the Mazda ABS both braking system and safety systems with the brakes.
Sometimes as I tell my techs time to change to your service hats and think Mazda today, And to be sure they do the service correctly I use ALLDATA and print out the exact service procedures and they must initial each step indicating following it.
Short cute for the most part are not usually accepted because if they were mechanically sound, they would have been a service procedure set by the auto manufacture and not a "somebody" cutting corners and getting lucky that the service came out successful.

 

The Mazda CX-5 brakes are my only complaint with the entire vehicle.
Even with new performance rotors and pads mine does not feel "optimal" to me.
Though I wouldn't call it mushy as the pedal works fine, the stopping performance part, not so much.
I know I could resolve the issue with performance calipers (as I have with other vehicles), but I simply don't want to spend that kind of money.
I don't take it on the track and I'm not in sport mode in the twisties enough to justify it, plus at my age I prefer to keep my license anyway.

 

i have to agree...coming from my subaru (when the brakes actually worked correctly) they stopped the vehicle much more efficiently vs the cx-5

 

You both need to just go find a straight stretch of road get up to 60MPH and do a hard stop. Then come back and post about the experience!
The brake system was engineered, designed specifically so that they not only should last longer but have a more appealing brake feel for the average driver day to day driving.

Installing even High performance for street use only will NOT improve the braking potential only drain your wallet sooner to replace pads and rotors . And if you choose an aggressive pads you will be cleaning your wheel bi-weekly.

Trust me when I say we get this kind of complaints all the time in the shop and few times I have taken customers out and trained them in the attributes of panic aka eye popping hard pounding hard (panic ) stopping

For specifically the MAZDA MX5 when the ABS kicks in completely you are going to know it and feel it!!!!

 

i'm not even speaking of super hard braking to the point where the abs system engages...i'm talking about spirited local driving and having to brake at say a traffic light that you can't safely get through while it's orange...all i know is the brakes are worse than my subaru was as in more distance required to stop with similar pressure being applied to the brake pedal...and my subaru pads lasted longer than any other vehicle i have owned but i do drive a lot of highway miles...hoping these last longer...not planning to make any changes, just adjust how i brake/drive to accommodate for a longer braking distance

 

Brakes their service life and performance is directly related to the driver.
No one can argue this point if you competitively race and especially if you have at least taken one performance driving school weekend school.
I can't debate or argue with anyone that has not. You do not have the experience level.

But I can say that the braking performance which is measured in stopping distance is Federally required to be published by all auto manufactures selling new vehcle in the USA. So if you want to compare platforms and models look the braking specification and the wight tested. If you don't then post how, you feel is not re4ally sound information> Unless you tested the comparing vehicles same day and road condition with an accurate measuring meter.

 

The turbo models have dual piston brakes versus the single piston brakes on the non-turbo. I can feel a difference in both of them, but once I drive the non-turbo enough I get used to it again.