2016.5 Transmission fluid change questions
Thread Starter
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Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 15
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From: East coast
2016.5 Transmission fluid change questions
Hi All,
I have a 2016.5 Mazda Cx5 with 63k miles and I was planning on doing a transmission drain and fill along with replacing the transmission filter but I just had a few questions:
1. How long do you need to wait for the Silicone to cure or dry before putting the pan back on? I asked my dealer what type of RTV they used and they mentioned Mazda Rtv Silicone 0000-77-1217-ES.
1a. Can you torque the bolts on criss cross pattern after it dries or do you need to wait "x" amount of time?
1b. Is the best way to apply the sealant in a straight line with no breaks or can I just apply it and spread it evenly? I know it'll compress anyways but just wanted to know the best method.
2. How do you clean off the RTV sealant on mounting surfaces of the pan? I saw that some people recommended scotch bright but then others said that the dust wouldn't mix well with the transmission and it would cause contamination.
3. How do you clean off any residue or crud left inside the oil pan? I saw people using brake fluid but wouldn't that leave behind some residue? Can anyone confirm if brake cleaner is safe?
4. My manual recommends to wait until the temperature reaches 122F, but what if my car goes beyond that temperature? I know it has something to do with the fluid rising.
5.. Couldn't I just drain the fluid when the car is off and then pour the exact same amount back in using a measuring glass?
6. Is the best way to measure the ATF temperature using an OBD II tool?
Please let me know if there's any other tips/advice.
Thank you
I have a 2016.5 Mazda Cx5 with 63k miles and I was planning on doing a transmission drain and fill along with replacing the transmission filter but I just had a few questions:
1. How long do you need to wait for the Silicone to cure or dry before putting the pan back on? I asked my dealer what type of RTV they used and they mentioned Mazda Rtv Silicone 0000-77-1217-ES.
1a. Can you torque the bolts on criss cross pattern after it dries or do you need to wait "x" amount of time?
1b. Is the best way to apply the sealant in a straight line with no breaks or can I just apply it and spread it evenly? I know it'll compress anyways but just wanted to know the best method.
2. How do you clean off the RTV sealant on mounting surfaces of the pan? I saw that some people recommended scotch bright but then others said that the dust wouldn't mix well with the transmission and it would cause contamination.
3. How do you clean off any residue or crud left inside the oil pan? I saw people using brake fluid but wouldn't that leave behind some residue? Can anyone confirm if brake cleaner is safe?
4. My manual recommends to wait until the temperature reaches 122F, but what if my car goes beyond that temperature? I know it has something to do with the fluid rising.
5.. Couldn't I just drain the fluid when the car is off and then pour the exact same amount back in using a measuring glass?
6. Is the best way to measure the ATF temperature using an OBD II tool?
Please let me know if there's any other tips/advice.
Thank you
Senior Member
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 393
Likes: 1
From: Central Wisconsin
There's a Youtube video or two about changing the T fluid. IIRC, it's
an asian video. Black RTV works. I use brake cleaner for a lot of
auto type cleaning-oil pan/trans pan included.
Yes on the X bolt sequence.
If you mean warming the transmission to check if full, that works. If you are close
on re-fill, just drive it for 15 minutes, then check level.
I'd definitely use Mazda or other Japanese brand fluid.
My 2¢
an asian video. Black RTV works. I use brake cleaner for a lot of
auto type cleaning-oil pan/trans pan included.
Yes on the X bolt sequence.
If you mean warming the transmission to check if full, that works. If you are close
on re-fill, just drive it for 15 minutes, then check level.
I'd definitely use Mazda or other Japanese brand fluid.
My 2¢
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
From: Northeast USA
I recommend trying to measure the fluid that comes out, and then refill with the same amount of new fluid at the same ambient temp. If you can accomplish that without any spillage, then the fluid level should check fine (assuming it was ok previously as well).
I'm not a fan of using any abrasive pad or paper to remove left over material from mating surfaces. I use a plastic scraper for most of the work, and then if necessary a razor blade held at a very shallow angle to the surface, to get anything that the scraper cannot remove. But however you do it, just make absolutely certain to avoid gouging the mating surface, and that also applies to the job of removing the pan as well.
One thing I'd add to your list is to torque the pan bolts in multiple passes - at least 2, although I typically use 3 passes of around 1/3, 2/3, and then final torque. Not something that a pro would probably do, but my time gets billed at 0$/hour. The service manual for my vehicle doesn't provide a bolt sequence pattern, so I guess you just use whatever criss cross pattern you prefer.
I'm a bit surprised that there apparently are no quality pan gaskets available yet from the aftermarket for these FW6A(X)-EL transmissions. The one I saw from Beck Arnley got poor customer reviews (displacing during torqueing), and there was no feedback information available for the only other one I found.
The Felpro tranny pan gasket that I used a few years ago on our 2011 Mazda 3I made the pan reinstall job fast and easy to do, and I've used their gaskets on other vehicles as well. These gaskets are so precise that the pan bolts can be started into the gasket, and will be held in place as the pan is raised up to the tranny. Very nice feature! They make a top shelf product, and I'd expect the pros would be wanting them for every transmission and engine they do, because time is money and RTV always has to be slower than a high quality solid gasket. Hopefully they will get around to producing them one of these days.
I'm not a fan of using any abrasive pad or paper to remove left over material from mating surfaces. I use a plastic scraper for most of the work, and then if necessary a razor blade held at a very shallow angle to the surface, to get anything that the scraper cannot remove. But however you do it, just make absolutely certain to avoid gouging the mating surface, and that also applies to the job of removing the pan as well.
One thing I'd add to your list is to torque the pan bolts in multiple passes - at least 2, although I typically use 3 passes of around 1/3, 2/3, and then final torque. Not something that a pro would probably do, but my time gets billed at 0$/hour. The service manual for my vehicle doesn't provide a bolt sequence pattern, so I guess you just use whatever criss cross pattern you prefer.
I'm a bit surprised that there apparently are no quality pan gaskets available yet from the aftermarket for these FW6A(X)-EL transmissions. The one I saw from Beck Arnley got poor customer reviews (displacing during torqueing), and there was no feedback information available for the only other one I found.
The Felpro tranny pan gasket that I used a few years ago on our 2011 Mazda 3I made the pan reinstall job fast and easy to do, and I've used their gaskets on other vehicles as well. These gaskets are so precise that the pan bolts can be started into the gasket, and will be held in place as the pan is raised up to the tranny. Very nice feature! They make a top shelf product, and I'd expect the pros would be wanting them for every transmission and engine they do, because time is money and RTV always has to be slower than a high quality solid gasket. Hopefully they will get around to producing them one of these days.
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver, WA
I recommend trying to measure the fluid that comes out, and then refill with the same amount of new fluid at the same ambient temp. If you can accomplish that without any spillage, then the fluid level should check fine (assuming it was ok previously as well).
I'm not a fan of using any abrasive pad or paper to remove left over material from mating surfaces. I use a plastic scraper for most of the work, and then if necessary a razor blade held at a very shallow angle to the surface, to get anything that the scraper cannot remove. But however you do it, just make absolutely certain to avoid gouging the mating surface, and that also applies to the job of removing the pan as well.
One thing I'd add to your list is to torque the pan bolts in multiple passes - at least 2, although I typically use 3 passes of around 1/3, 2/3, and then final torque. Not something that a pro would probably do, but my time gets billed at 0$/hour. The service manual for my vehicle doesn't provide a bolt sequence pattern, so I guess you just use whatever criss cross pattern you prefer.
I'm a bit surprised that there apparently are no quality pan gaskets available yet from the aftermarket for these FW6A(X)-EL transmissions. The one I saw from Beck Arnley got poor customer reviews (displacing during torqueing), and there was no feedback information available for the only other one I found.
The Felpro tranny pan gasket that I used a few years ago on our 2011 Mazda 3I made the pan reinstall job fast and easy to do, and I've used their gaskets on other vehicles as well. These gaskets are so precise that the pan bolts can be started into the gasket, and will be held in place as the pan is raised up to the tranny. Very nice feature! They make a top shelf product, and I'd expect the pros would be wanting them for every transmission and engine they do, because time is money and RTV always has to be slower than a high quality solid gasket. Hopefully they will get around to producing them one of these days.
I'm not a fan of using any abrasive pad or paper to remove left over material from mating surfaces. I use a plastic scraper for most of the work, and then if necessary a razor blade held at a very shallow angle to the surface, to get anything that the scraper cannot remove. But however you do it, just make absolutely certain to avoid gouging the mating surface, and that also applies to the job of removing the pan as well.
One thing I'd add to your list is to torque the pan bolts in multiple passes - at least 2, although I typically use 3 passes of around 1/3, 2/3, and then final torque. Not something that a pro would probably do, but my time gets billed at 0$/hour. The service manual for my vehicle doesn't provide a bolt sequence pattern, so I guess you just use whatever criss cross pattern you prefer.
I'm a bit surprised that there apparently are no quality pan gaskets available yet from the aftermarket for these FW6A(X)-EL transmissions. The one I saw from Beck Arnley got poor customer reviews (displacing during torqueing), and there was no feedback information available for the only other one I found.
The Felpro tranny pan gasket that I used a few years ago on our 2011 Mazda 3I made the pan reinstall job fast and easy to do, and I've used their gaskets on other vehicles as well. These gaskets are so precise that the pan bolts can be started into the gasket, and will be held in place as the pan is raised up to the tranny. Very nice feature! They make a top shelf product, and I'd expect the pros would be wanting them for every transmission and engine they do, because time is money and RTV always has to be slower than a high quality solid gasket. Hopefully they will get around to producing them one of these days.
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: East coast
There's a Youtube video or two about changing the T fluid. IIRC, it's
an asian video. Black RTV works. I use brake cleaner for a lot of
auto type cleaning-oil pan/trans pan included.
Yes on the X bolt sequence.
If you mean warming the transmission to check if full, that works. If you are close
on re-fill, just drive it for 15 minutes, then check level.
I'd definitely use Mazda or other Japanese brand fluid.
My 2¢
an asian video. Black RTV works. I use brake cleaner for a lot of
auto type cleaning-oil pan/trans pan included.
Yes on the X bolt sequence.
If you mean warming the transmission to check if full, that works. If you are close
on re-fill, just drive it for 15 minutes, then check level.
I'd definitely use Mazda or other Japanese brand fluid.
My 2¢
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: East coast
I did watch his video and I am a subscriber as well. I think he did a great job on the video and I will be referencing it when I decide to perform this task.Thank you for sharing!!
Thread Starter
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Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: East coast
I actually compared the prices on Amazon/Ebay to the OEM prices and it was definitely more expensive than comparing the different Mazda Part stores out there in my region. I'm actually scared to use anything else but OEM stuff on the transmission though, don't know if it'll mess anything up in the long run.
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: East coast
I recommend trying to measure the fluid that comes out, and then refill with the same amount of new fluid at the same ambient temp. If you can accomplish that without any spillage, then the fluid level should check fine (assuming it was ok previously as well).
I'm not a fan of using any abrasive pad or paper to remove left over material from mating surfaces. I use a plastic scraper for most of the work, and then if necessary a razor blade held at a very shallow angle to the surface, to get anything that the scraper cannot remove. But however you do it, just make absolutely certain to avoid gouging the mating surface, and that also applies to the job of removing the pan as well.
One thing I'd add to your list is to torque the pan bolts in multiple passes - at least 2, although I typically use 3 passes of around 1/3, 2/3, and then final torque. Not something that a pro would probably do, but my time gets billed at 0$/hour. The service manual for my vehicle doesn't provide a bolt sequence pattern, so I guess you just use whatever criss cross pattern you prefer.
I'm a bit surprised that there apparently are no quality pan gaskets available yet from the aftermarket for these FW6A(X)-EL transmissions. The one I saw from Beck Arnley got poor customer reviews (displacing during torqueing), and there was no feedback information available for the only other one I found.
The Felpro tranny pan gasket that I used a few years ago on our 2011 Mazda 3I made the pan reinstall job fast and easy to do, and I've used their gaskets on other vehicles as well. These gaskets are so precise that the pan bolts can be started into the gasket, and will be held in place as the pan is raised up to the tranny. Very nice feature! They make a top shelf product, and I'd expect the pros would be wanting them for every transmission and engine they do, because time is money and RTV always has to be slower than a high quality solid gasket. Hopefully they will get around to producing them one of these days.
I'm not a fan of using any abrasive pad or paper to remove left over material from mating surfaces. I use a plastic scraper for most of the work, and then if necessary a razor blade held at a very shallow angle to the surface, to get anything that the scraper cannot remove. But however you do it, just make absolutely certain to avoid gouging the mating surface, and that also applies to the job of removing the pan as well.
One thing I'd add to your list is to torque the pan bolts in multiple passes - at least 2, although I typically use 3 passes of around 1/3, 2/3, and then final torque. Not something that a pro would probably do, but my time gets billed at 0$/hour. The service manual for my vehicle doesn't provide a bolt sequence pattern, so I guess you just use whatever criss cross pattern you prefer.
I'm a bit surprised that there apparently are no quality pan gaskets available yet from the aftermarket for these FW6A(X)-EL transmissions. The one I saw from Beck Arnley got poor customer reviews (displacing during torqueing), and there was no feedback information available for the only other one I found.
The Felpro tranny pan gasket that I used a few years ago on our 2011 Mazda 3I made the pan reinstall job fast and easy to do, and I've used their gaskets on other vehicles as well. These gaskets are so precise that the pan bolts can be started into the gasket, and will be held in place as the pan is raised up to the tranny. Very nice feature! They make a top shelf product, and I'd expect the pros would be wanting them for every transmission and engine they do, because time is money and RTV always has to be slower than a high quality solid gasket. Hopefully they will get around to producing them one of these days.
Appreciate the advice, I did purchase scotch brite (non-scratch) so I don't know if's any better but I'm planning to purchase a plastic scraper as well now that you mention it.
For the torquing portion, I think I'll probably hand tighten the bolts after applying the RTV and then when it cures (24 hours) then I'll torque them to spec. It feels weird to torque them in multiple passes but I may reconsider.
I feel the same, it would be awesome if someone came up with something because applying RTV and having to wait for it to cure seems like a giant PITA.
