When I said "20 years", I said that not because I've only been wrenching for 20 years (more like 45), but because it was cars of the mid-1990s vintage (and pretty much all later models) on which I first noticed the issue of not being full to the top hash following an oil change.

 

The manual states that as long if its in between the lines, its fine. I don't understand what the big issue is here? Oh and I've been wrenching on cars for over 65 years.

 

Coppied from the CX-5 Workshop.


1. Position the vehicle on level ground.

2. Warm up the engine.

3. Stop the engine and allow at least 5 min before continuing.

4. Remove the dipstick, wipe it cleanly, and reinstall it fully.

5. Remove the dipstick and verify that the oil level is between the F and L marks on the dipstick.

6. Insert the oil level gauge completely until it attaches to the cylinder head cover.


• If the oil level is below or near the L mark, add engine oil. (See ENGINE OIL REPLACEMENT [SKYACTIV-G 2.0, SKYACTIV-G 2.5].)

• If the oil level is above the F mark, penetration of fuel into the engine oil can be considered. Replace the engine oil. (See ENGINE OIL REPLACEMENT [SKYACTIV-G 2.0, SKYACTIV-G 2.5].)

 

There is no "big issue" here. We're just splitting hairs and passing the time. 'Cause that's what folks do on these forums. BTW, with 65 years worth of oil changes under your belt, you can officially have the last word on this topic!

 

When it comes to engine lubrication, brand of oil, oil filters, oil change intervals, and grades of oil, splitting hairs isn't enough; I'm thinking a good lively debate will split the same hair over and over and over, and so long as the finest strand can still be detected under an electron microscope, then "split'er again".

 

Just finished changing my oil last week and added the full jug of Mobil 1 plus a pint of oil additive. Checked this morning after the car sat all night and the oil is exactly up to the upper level limit on the stick.

 

You do know Mazda expressly recommends AGAINST using oil additives; don't you?

 

for the additional $$ you spent on the additive, you could have gotten 5 qts of Mazda super-moly oil which, for my money, is far superior.

 

Agreed; the new Mazda 0W-20 is arguably the best 0W-20 on the market, at any price.

 

That's one expensive additive. Which one is this? If he's talking about the Liqui Moly MoS2 additive, its about $6-7 at the local Napa. If using Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum from Walmart on sale, its around $23, so with a bottle of 300ml MoS2 additive, which you can get two uses out of, each oil change is less than $30 excluding filter. If using Mazda Moly, they can cost about $8-12 a quart if the dealer even stocks it. However, I suppose there is some value to having ease of mind using OEM branded products.