You may have already done your transmission service -- and YES its time to drop the pan and replace the filter -- #1 Suggest using only MAZDA OE TYPE-FZ automatic transmission fluid - I worked in an independent legit transmission rebuild shop which has been in business over 35 years now and learned quite a bit --so take what you need --forget the rest - #2 IF its AWD then you likely have a separate transfer case ( newer CX5s dont - not sure which year they were married into one ) which will require a different fluid which is similar and may be the same as the rear diff fluid ( again if its AWD ) so start with the Transmission and drain , then drop the pan and inspect the magnets for accumulation of metallic shavings --If its heavy -- clean it well and hope for the best here . Let it drain well - using a receptacle which will give you an accurate measurement of how much fluid drained out --it can be tricky as you know when the pan gets dropped so get every drop . Pull the filter and give it a good look inside - even cutting it open to view any accumulation of metallic or other debris --as well determine if its original equipment --? Meaning never been serviced before - Replace with OE filter - then get a very good hard plastic edge to clean the pan and transmission surfaces without damaging them --crucial - the apply your RTV and allow more than adequate time for full drying before refilling . If the 19 has a separate transfer case and diff --get started on the rear diff and then transfer case while waiting --if you can ,wait a full day --depending on the RTV you use - the inside can take longer to dry . Measure the fluid that came out -- and replace that amount . Remember you asked 5-6 quarts? Expect less as the torque converter will retain fluid as well so will other areas above the valve body -iIm not sure if the 2019 has a drain plug on the torque converter --likely not --if so drain that too -( never seen one on a CX5)--- After refill . start - drive getting it up to temp --if you have a lazer external thermometer -- shoot both sides and make sure its correct- Check level while hot and at Idle right after driving --adjust fluid --recheck under vehicle for leaks --then replace the splash guard - IF it still has upshift issues , and theres no code - drive it and let the new detergents/lubricants in the new fluid do their stuff -- You should see an improvement- Best on that

 

transmission is all serviced . Was original fluid and pan sealant as far as i could tell. 6 quarts came out including what was in filter. Sealed it up with RTV.
Only issue was when i tightened pan down and 1 bolt stripped out.... But at this time it not leaking and it shifts better.

 

Nice !
As for the bolt …
as a past Chrysler Tech you know the best thread repair in that area is to Time-sert it.

 

Old fluid was like 0 weight BLACK OIL.

Time -sert-it ??? Im assuming you mean leave it alone if its not leaking.?
In future if i have to remove pan , there were also 2 other bolts that didn't go in well, ..So if i have to remove pan again I guess I'll have to drill out and put a few Heli coil in.

Doing a Coolant service is next job..

 

Do not use a heli-coil in an area that may frequent removing and installing the fastener.
The ATF does not change it viscosity rating and as far as I am aware there is no ATF that is 0 viscosity.


Time-Sert are the best for a permeant thread repair not heli- coils. Not to mention there is far less chance of screw up using them whereas many DIY and some mechanics botch the heli-coil install making the thread damage even greater and more challenging to clean up to install a better thread repair.

++ TIME-SERT Official Threaded inserts for stripped threads, blown out sparkplugs,





Side notation: it is always a good idea to chase the threads when doing any service on any part of the vehcle to insure a clean thread or fastener.
The extra time to do that service may save a longer time period to repair a thread.

 

AS far as the viscosity i was just meant it was light weight ..
And agree the time-sert would be better option at transmission pan,,, But ive done plenty of HELI Coils over the years and never botched one up.
And off subject of my veh , i never agreed about leaving a Heli coil installed below the surface in some cases., But that discussion would be best for different post.

 

Heli-coils were the best to-go-to fix repair but they were never shown to be long term proven . I used them at one time extensively in my Engine Performance Machine shop and during the time period time-setrs were to expensive for customers. And to be sure in a pinch I still have a full stock of standard and metric heli-coils. But carefully choose when to use them and more when not to.
For a pan with the threads partially damaged that will no longer secure (the proper torque) a fastener they will suffice. And I am sure you already looked at the cost of a basic kit for every single size needed in the time-sert kits. You would spend a few hundred dollars for the basic most common sizes and a fully stocked set about 500+ dollars. I know trust me.


Black ATF is never a good sign, and it means that there is a varnish throughout the transmission.

 

Yea, i plan on in 12 months to at least drain the fluid again at plug and refill, or possibly sooner but it does shift more smoothly now

 

If you use the search feature of a thread you can find the several times, I have done the transmission service on my Mazda. Take notice to the oil analysis as well the miles (very) and what I found. This is the same on all Mazda's automatics and automatic Skyactiv transmissions.
Mazda3 Things I like to do - Mazda Forum - Mazda Enthusiast Forums

 

Mazda recommends cabin filter change every 2 years though I inspect mine 2x a year and change it at least once, plug change every 75,000 miles.