Checked the manual first and saw a range of 80- 108 ft lb.
A bit surprised to say the least since most car makers give you a specific number.
I set it at 100 ft lb. but am; interested in what others use and why there is a range.

 

The variants IMHO help for those that get confused using a torque wrench . Technically speaking the correct torque rang is exactly what you posted. The end users if experienced can determine the various conditions to best decide on a torque value up to the max @100lbs.

In your case you like the max. then for you that would be the best value that you decided to use.

For me the first few tire/wheels rotation I set it at 80lbs now with over 50k miles and I religiously rotate at 5k intervals (many pictures on this forum to verify this statement) I now set at 100/bs respectively.

There are technical reasons why using the max torque value on new studs and lug nuts may not be the best choice.

ASE

 

I torque all wheel nuts to 130nm ( 95 ft/lb). Nice and snug.

 

And water submerging proff....ROLMAO!!!!!

Only a few would understand the joke!

 

I said the same thing so I ended up with what I used when I have my Ridgeline, which is 94ft#

 

Welcome to the forum



I should also mention that whenever anyone torque wheel hardware to recheck it after about 50 miles which very important for wheels that have been removed and replaced several times for tire rotation and other service work. The studs do stretch and over time from removing and retorqueing.

There is a reason why many shops have you initial to do that on the service order before you get the keys to your ride back.

 

The torque range could actually be for different types of wheels, steel vs aluminum, etc. Most car models will have several different style of stock wheels from the factory......including aluminum, forged aluminum, and steel.