We now have surpassed 40,000 miles on our CX-30. No issues with it at all so far (knock on wood). I changed the oil & filter yesterday + replaced the cabin air filter and the engine air cleaner element. We have had the car since new (a bit over four years now). It is the AWD Premium trim level and has the non-turbo 2.5L "SkyActiv" four-cylinder engine.

Next on my list is to flush out the coolant. The owner's guide says to use "FL-22" coolant in it. The factory stuff appears to be almost blue in color. Amazon has a brand of coolant that is 'green' for Asian cars and they also sell a 'blue' one for Asian cars. Wal Mart sells what is supposed to be for ALL vehicles. I don't see FL22 on the label of anything in the store. Two different shops quoted me a price of $280 to the service on the coolant, which seemed super high to me. I could probably do it myself in my driveway - as I have done with vehicles in the past.

The radiator petcock is visible from the top of the engine, but not accessible except from underneath. I would have to remove that plastic panel (appears to be four screws and four plastic rivets) in order to get to it.

A big question (aside from which brand to buy for it) is whether to buy the full strength stuff & mix it with distilled water OR buy the jugs of it that are pre-mixed 50/50. With past vehicles, I just drained it all out, filled it with water and ran the engine for a few minutes. Then I repeated the process two or three times until everything was flushed out. Let the engine cool down, then drain it again. Refill with fresh coolant, run it around the block, let it cool off and top off both the radiator and the reservoir with more fresh coolant.

The coolant capacity for a 2.5 non-turbo US spec 2021 CX-30 is 6.9 US quarts. Maybe a gallon of full strength coolant mixed with distilled water would easily mix 6.9 quarts with a quart left over if I ever needed to add any in the future. So the big question is....................do I go with the 'green' Asian car coolant or the 'blue' Asian car coolant? I know that our Honda CR-V and my stepdaughter's Accord have the blue stuff..........but they're not Mazdas.

How about it, Calisto? I bet you are going to chime in on this one.

P.S. I bought two cabin air filters on-line for $16. The engine air cleaner was about $15. The stealership wanted $40 to $50 EACH!

 

I don’t use Mazda fluid and I don’t use pre mix.
And I use good old green coolant and because I know the water values in my city drinking water I don’t buy distilled water. The coolant does it job protecting the cooling system just fine . And I frequently check its condition as I just did 2 weeks ago.
Your Mazda you just can drain the radiator like old school, so before you undertake the coolant replacement read the service information. You can pay for a one day or week or other from ALLData which for a DIY is well worth the tiny investment cost to use the sight.
https://www.alldata.com/diy-us/en

I use K&N cabin filters and as it only takes literally seconds to remove and reinstall the cabin filter the cost of the K&N wins because you can service the cabin filter more frequently like once a month or sooner.

All your effort yet nothing about doing a basic and due NOW transmission pan oil and filter service? Much more important then the coolant!

just very recently did mine for the 4 or fifth time ?

https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/mazda3-26/mazda3-things-i-like-do-44018/




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I have heard people mention that it is okay to use the "green" coolant (universal) in almost any kind of car. I used to have a Silverado and always used the orange DexCool in it, since that was recommended by GM. 140,000 miles on it when i sold it and zero issues. My F-150 has the yellow Ford coolant and that's what I will continue to use in it. From what I have read, the biggest issue is when two different kinds of coolant are mixed together............sometimes with a bad chemical reaction. An old school mechanic (now retired) said that you can use nearly any type, but that you need to make sure to flush ALL of the existing stuff out before putting in the new coolant. Before I retired, I drove big rigs and most of them used the red coolant. Some of the box trucks we had used purple coolant. Weird, huh? Back in the day, all cars used the green Prestone, Zerex or Peak stuff that you found at any auto parts store.

Regarding the water, we have a well here and it's a relatively new house. If I will mix my own (instead of buying pre-mix), I'll spend a few bucks for distilled water because well water is supposed to be heavy in minerals. I just found it bizarre that the coolant sold on Amazon is green for Asian cars (although the CX-30 is built in Mexico) and they also sell a blue blend for Asian cars.

The cabin filter and engine air filter were both replaced a year ago. The engine air filter was slightly dirty (not nearly as bad as I thought it would be), while the cabin air filter barely had any dirt in it at all. Both were pretty easy to replace. The hardest part about the cabin filter is the four little snap things that you have to press in order to remove the cover. It's also crucial to remember which way to install it (airflow arrow facing downward). The engine air filter only fits in one way, so that one is simpler.

Regarding the transmission, I went to Meineke, AAMCO and even the Mazda dealership. All three of them said that you are not supposed to change the fluid (which I find truly odd). Their computer said that it was not a serviceable item - which just doesn't sound right. Is it set up so that you drop the pan, change out or clean the internal filter and then fill it back up again? The auto trans doesn't even have a dipstick!

It truly is amazing how easy an oil change is to do on the CX-30. I remember having a Nissan Sentra where the filter was sideways and located right above the bottom of the exhaust manifold. After every oil change, it smelled like burnt toast for a day or two. I once had a Toyota 4Runner with the oil filter mounted ON TOP of the engine! Talk about easy to get to. There was even a little funnel built around it that trapped any spilled oil. Put a small plastic bottle underneath it, remove the plastic plug and capture two or three ounces of the spilled oil. Wipe up the edge with a rag and you were good to go.

I assume that your transmission is the same on your Mazda 3 as it is on the CX-30 (six speed automatic). You have done yours before............is the interior filter replaceable or do you just clean it? Do you need a special pump to put in the new fluid? How do you even check the level without a dipstick? My 2004 F-150 has a long dipstick that enables you to easily check the fluid, its level and condition in no time at all.

Have a great Monday!!

 

The color of antifreeze is most always a coloring DYE. This dates back tio the 1960 and why things were colored like ATF and coolant. Much like some members on forums. If you look up the reason you will understand.

If a transmission has a pan, then you can service it. There are some transmissions that have an internal filter, so they are very labor intensive to change. It is shown by way of oil factual empirically stated documentation of oil analysis that it is better to change the fluid at regular intervals then waiting or not doing it at all.
Dipstick and how to check the ATF vary and this is also seeming you can get on the ALLData website.
*Picture below shows how accumulation builds up even when I frequently service my transmission with pan fluid changes and routine pan and filter services. The last was between just under 6kmiles.
*(See from post # 430 forward>
Mazda3 Things I like to do - Page 43 - Mazda Forum - Mazda Enthusiast Forums
The cabin filter most do not realize that in one of the 2 setting you recirculate the cabin air. So, while you may not see dirt in the pleats itself think about the first part of this sentence when waiting so long to change or clean it. LOL

I recommend to go look at ALLData for any service you intend to DIY. It is a small fee for what you can read and download for your own personal service manual.

 

There certainly is a lot of information out there. I may have to check out ALLData sometime very soon.

I still don't understand why the dealership PLUS two franchised national service centers have it in their computer that the transmission fluid on a CX-30 is not supposed to be changed. Honestly, I don't believe that for a minute - as there is some degree of friction, pumps, liquid, pressure and high temperatures. Why do you think that is? Can you believe it that they'd turn away business like that?

Is it a "drop the pan and change the filter" kind of thing or do you just clean out the filter, scour out the pan in re-install it? (I will have a shop do the trans fluid work IF I can find one that will. LOL!) Just what does it entail anyway?

I know that coolant has dye in it, but I wondered if the chemical formulation differs from one type to the other. The old green Prestone stuff is certainly the prettiest of the batch.

 

Common sense on this one! Some auto manufactures regarding some platforms states a lifetime no service needed on the transmission. In other words you roll the dice on not having issues after the 100k miles or warranty expires.

The chemical or rather the formulas of coolant are generally different, and you MUST use the coolant that states compatible with current coolant or for use with your platform or if your complete drain and clean the cooling system then is some cases you can choose what you want to use. But after the warranty has lapsed.

On the http of my thread there are server times I detailed pictures of the transmission service on my Mazda 3, T model late production 2018.

 

Common sense on this one! Some auto manufactures regarding some platforms states a lifetime no service needed on the transmission. In other words you roll the dice on not having issues after the 100k miles or warranty expires.


Yep - "lifetime fluid" probably means that your transmission burns up after the warranty is long expired. LOL! (Ask a service advisor how long a 'lifetime' is and watch them squirm.)

The chemical or rather the formulas of coolant are generally different, and you MUST use the coolant that states compatible with current coolant or for use with your platform or if your complete drain and clean the cooling system then is some cases you can choose what you want to use. But after the warranty has lapsed.


That is why I found it bizarre that both blue and green "Asian" coolant were described as being suitable for Mazda vehicles. Also, the FL22 is supposed to be "long life" coolant - 10 years or 120 months. No way would I ever wait that long!

On the http of my thread there are server times I detailed pictures of the transmission service on my Mazda 3, T model late production 2018.


Yes, I saw some of those about a month or two ago when you posted them. Very impressive! Does your Mazda 3 have the same six-speed auto as our CX-30?

 

They are both Skyactiv automatic transmissions with a standard torque converter. The gearing is not the same ratio as mine. The pan configuration is different. The dip stick is in the same PIA location if you run the OEM air intake filter system So for all practical purposes they are close to the same.

I am currently re building and structurally adding ribbing to the core housing of a Skyactiv transmission as they are a weak link for supporting any WHP over 300. And I am going to try to modify the differential to be a torque locking instead of a peg leg LSD . This is basically why I stopped developing more power from the engine . At the power I am at I can’t even use strong engine and transmission mounts for fear of breaking the transmission.

It is harder to find than it used to be to be…. Way back in our grandfathers day service stations when you pulled in and ran over a rubber hose that made a bell ring a person would run out fill your tank check all the tires air pressure wash your windshield and check you coolant, engine oil and the transmission (if automatic) oil.
So it was fast realized that accidents were often happening that the wrong oil was put in the engine or transmission. OPS LOL. So the oil supplier stared to die the transmission fluid red. This way the gas attendant would know that was for transmission only . Then coolant was dyed to green or gold and wiper fluid blue. lol These days ATF can be original semi clear, dark green , Red or Blue. Most oil is all amber with a few exceptions like Castrol oil which original was made by adding caster bean oil to their formulas . lol And coolant in a variety of dyed colors. lol

 

Our car is bone stock - right down to the OEM air intake. I didn't even know that the CX-30 transmission has a dipstick. I sure as hell have never seen it and the service writer at the dealership said that it is a "sealed" system that doesn't enable you to check the fluid level in the same way you can check the oil level in the crankcase. What you said about gas station attendants makes sense - in regard to the fluid colors. One thing I like about my F-150 is that the fluid reservoirs are all clear and you can see the level (coolant, power steering, brakes, etc.). The oil dipstick and transmission dipstick are yellow, which makes them easy to find - and they're on opposite sides of the engine.

Before I retired, I drove big rigs and we often had to rent trucks from Penske (both box trucks & tractors). Their supervisor told me that some customers had put windshield washer fluid into the DEF (Diesel Exhaust Fluid) tank because both caps are blue. Oopsie!! I never heard of somebody putting DEF into the windshield washer reservoir, though. That would be a first! The different colors on things makes sense.

300 whp in a Mazda 3? That's quite a boost! I think our CX-30 puts out 185 or something like that. The 2.5L turbo CX-30 has 258 or so, which is admirable for the same size engine. Personally, ours is fast enough and the non-turbo engine won't have to work as hard. Even though ours is a 2021 model, it was built late in 2020 and - as far as I am aware - the turbo engine was not yet available. When ours was in the shop for a recall about a year after we bought it, the dealership gave me a CX-9 as a rental car. It had the turbo engine and certainly had a little more scoot to it - although it was a lot bigger than the CX-30.

Not a day goes by when I regret getting the Soul Red color. It just 'pops' - especially when clean. We get a lot of compliments on how pretty the car is. My wife is talking about getting a new car (trying to talk her out of it) and handing down our CR-V to my son & his wife. They have 2008 and 2013 Honda Accords with 200,000 and 220,000 miles (he is in sales, so he drives more) on them now. The nickel and dime stuff is adding up a bit. My wife and I like the Miata RF......but they're kind of tight. She saw a Toyota GR86 parked by her at work and was smitten with the looks of it. I found out it has a Subaru engine in it, but has about 40 more horsepower than the Miata, but lacks the convertible top. She has a 40-minute commute each way, about half of it on rural two-lane roads. If she gets another car, the CX-30 will sort of become mine. Haha!! ( The F-150 is nice to drive until it needs fuel. ) Before we moved to Germany, her daily driver was a 2016 Audi TT. That was one bad *** little car!

 

Sealed in most cases by auto manufactures mean non-serviceable or lifetime. My BMWs has that and yet I do service on it all the time.
Honestly, I am not going to go into a debate as this always takes a dark road with members on forums going to the internet for answers in the wrong places.
I also do not post exact ALLData service information (but you can pay to get it and I highly recommend that you do) as per our service agreement with them but I can state that Mazda while it does not post a service detail of a complete transmission service there is one.
Here is a parts illustration for a non turbo Cx30 transmission that as all I am going to post. about that. I will state however that my very long-time friend own a Transmission shop that has been in business since the 80's
will do a basic or comprehensive service on any transmission that is designated as a lifetime no service. We use his shop at times for some transmission service that we do not have the specialized equipment for or just don't do like a transmission rebuild. Bottom line if you remove your airbox assembly you will see how to check your fluid. The is not a CVT and even those with NO dipstick it is not rock science to check the fluid level just a little more time consuming.!

Next your power number are not exactly how I posted the information. BTW as I posted this perhaps over 100 times on various forums as well this one at least a dozen times or more.... unless an auto manufacture participates in the certification program of engine power output, SAE J1349® Certified Power they can post anything they desire or want even if they are not accurate. my power is WHP whereas Mazda we think is and my guess based on doing Dyno testing of over 1000s vehicles (I owned and operated 3 types, Chassi, portable and engine Dyno) most who get the DYNO are never totally pleased with the outcome and many are disappointed that their vehcle is not even close to what was advertised on the internet and in magazines. The other point is so many people that read those power number for HP don't realize that is developed at the estimate maximum safe engine speed with is usually 6000-6500 RPM. Now if you want to get an idea about that engine speed go take any vehcle you own and manually shift the transmission at least 3 gears from a standing stop to RED line. Anything below red line you more or less have a Pinto for power....(exagerating) And torque is not the same thing as HP. That is another power rating that gets so misunderstood by owners of vehicles all the time. But generally, the maximum torque peaks at 500-5500 RPM and depending on the inductive system determines how fast the raise to peak torque occurs. A super charged engine will achieve max torque fast then a N/A and even most all Turbocharged engines, but they have a top end RPM limit to the gearing setup in the supercharger itself where a turbocharged engine depending on the intake and the exhaust can generate power levels way over the engine RED line. But NOT on most all Mazda's platforms and models that are engineered as a daily driver.
About SAE J1349® Certified Power - Standards Development - Standards - SAE International

About SAE J1349® Certified Power

Power and torque certification provide a means for a manufacturer to assure a customer that the engine they purchase delivers the advertised performance. This SAE Standard has been written to provide manufacturers with a method of certifying the power of engines to SAE J1349® or SAE J1995®. Document SAE J2723 specifies the procedure to be used for a manufacturer to certify the net power and torque rating of a production engine according to SAE J1349® or the gross engine power of a production engine according to SAE J1995®. Manufacturers who advertise their engine power and torque ratings as Certified to SAE J1349® or SAE J1995® shall follow this procedure. Certification of engine power and torque to SAE J1349® or SAE J1995® is voluntary, however, this power certification process is mandatory for those advertising power ratings as "Certified to SAE J1349®".

SAE Engine Rating Standard Prevents Numbers Fudging (an article on how GM will use SAE J1349® Certified Power, AEI May 2005, Vol 113 No.5, p 59 )

General Motors has become the first manufacturer to certify an engine's power and torque ratings using a newly adopted SAE standard (J2723), James Queen, GM Vice President, Global Engineering, announced during his keynote address at the SAE World Congress and Exhibition in April 2005. The world's largest automaker plans to certify all of its engines to the voluntary standard, and is encouraging its competitors to do the same. The LS7 engine for the 2006 Chevrolet Corvette Z06 was certified under the new standard this month. The 7.0-L V8 unit produces 505 hp (377 kW) at 6300 rpm and 470 lboft (637 Nom) at 4800 rpm. "The new voluntary SAE power and torque certification procedure ensures fair, accurate ratings for horsepower and torque as it uses third-party certification," said Queen. "SAE technical standards level the playing field, and this certification procedure is just the latest example of the value SAE has offered over the past century." To tout power and torque ratings as "SAE-certified," engine manufacturers must have an SAE qualified witness watch over the entire testing procedure to ensure that it is conducted in conformity to SAE standard J1349®. Third-party witnessing is the main provision of J2723. An existing SAE standard, J1349®, spells out how the actual testing is to be done. J1349® was updated last year to eliminate some ambiguities that allowed engine makers to cite power and torque ratings higher than the engine's actual capabilities. Engine makers are free to cite power and torque figures drived from testing conducted outside the scope of the SAE standards, but they may not claim the figures are SAE-certifed. "We feel that both the consumer and industry are well served by having accurate, consistent ratings from all manufacturers," said David Lancaster, a Technical Fellow in GM Powertrain and Chairman of the SAE Engine Power Test Code Committee that updated J1349® and wrote J2723. Data from a wide array of parameters (e.g., air:fuel ratio) will be collected during testing conducted to the SAE standards. SAE will create a database and offer it to industry in different packages and at different price points.


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