Our 90 B2200 has about 175k miles on it. When starting the engine the starter doesn’t always engage on the first try meaning you have to release the key and turn it again. The starter is relatively new, battery is good, all connections are good. The condition happens even when bypassing the clutch interlock switch. The key cylinder feels gummy when you turn it.

Could this be indication the lock cylinder needs replacement? Are the electrical contacts in the column something separate from the lock cylinder itself? What’s your advice to us for making sure we have a reliable lock cylinder and ignition/starting contacts? Repair by disassemble and cleaning / lubricant or just go straight to replacement?

 

If my truck, I would remove the steering column covers and remove the electrical part of the ignition switch from the lock cylinder. Once separated, it should be evident which part is the cause of the "gummy" feel.

The lock cylinder is purely mechanical, and if that's the cause (try turning with the key) one could remove that and try to clean that with solvent/ultrasonic cleaner (I did that on my gas flap lock cylinder). You should be able to turn the electrical part with a screwdriver to see if that's the cause of the gummy feel; it should also spring back once tension on the screwdriver is released.

Axel Breaker Earl has actually taken apart the electrical part of the ignition switch and cleaned it out, to fix it. PDF file of that attached. If my truck, I would remove the steering column covers and remove the electrical part of the ignition switch from the lock cylinder. Once separated, it should be evident which part is the cause of the "gummy" feel.

The lock cylinder is purely mechanical, and if that's the cause (try turning with the key) one could remove that and try to clean that with solvent/ultrasonic cleaner (I did that on my gas flap lock cylinder). You should be able to turn the electrical part with a screwdriver to see if that's the cause of the gummy feel; it should also spring back once tension on the screwdriver is released.

Axel Breaker Earl has actually taken apart the electrical part of the ignition switch and cleaned it out, to fix it. PDF file of his fix is attached here.

When I removed and installed new electrical part of the switch in my truck in the mid 1990s, I disconnected the harnesses from underneath the dash, was tough to disconnect and re-connect those. Since then I've learned that such R&R of the electrical part of the switch can be easier if the instrument cluster is removed, do the connections through the opening.

 

I’m definitely interested in trying to repair the existing parts as opposed to replacing. I’ll let you know what happens

 

Yep......I have done several of the "repairs" to the electrical portion of the Mazda Ignition Switches over the years......just make sure that you re-lube the electrical contact areas before re-assembling the switch.......as it is not "shown" in the pics that I took originally, that are in Cusser's ,pdf file above.

 

I saved your photos and text (way back from the MazdaTrucking.com site) into Microsoft Word; I used an online free PDF maker yesterday to make as PDF file.

 

Just a quick addition to the notes and instructions from the others. When taking apart the dash or steering column covers, really take your time and be careful because all those plastic parts get super brittle over time and are super hard to find replacements (especially if you’re interior is red like mine).

I replaced the ignition wiring in my 88 B2200 a few years ago when the internal switch was starting to go bad. As Cusser suggested, it wasn’t easy because it was extremely frustrating to get it plugged in behind the dash. The workshop manual makes it seem easier than it is. Your mileage may vary and I admit to disliking electrical work, but that was one of my personal least favorite repairs to perform on my truck.

I can’t remember where I got the ignition harness replacement, but sounds like you are gonna try and save yours - if you change your mind, let me know and I can dig through my stack of receipts.

 

I remember when I bought my own replacement electrical part of the ignition switch in the mid-1990s, was only available from the dealer (didn't have Internet then); so I paid $103 for it.

 

So when I rebuild the ignition switch, is dielectric grease good for lubricant on assembly?

 

Yes......I have also used wheel bearing grease! Don't pack it in there......just lube the contact pieces with the grease.

 

I still plan to rebuild the factory ignition switch. However, I have acquired a new switch assembly with the associated wires and connector. Is there anything specific I need to know about removing the old one and putting the new one in? Any tips are appreciated