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Mazda BT 50 & Pickup TrucksWhile Mazda may not be known for their trucks, they have always produced quality reliable trucks for both hauling cargo, or simply crusing. BT 50
I still plan to rebuild the factory ignition switch. However, I have acquired a new switch assembly with the associated wires and connector. Is there anything specific I need to know about removing the old one and putting the new one in? Any tips are appreciated
It's easier to get to the electrical connections for the ignition switch (electrical) R&R if one pulls the instrument cluster out. Remember, there's a speedometer clip in the engine compartment, that makes more space to disconnect the speedometer cable from the cluster.
We finally got the ignition switch replaced. We did just the switch, not the lock cylinder. We used a Beck /Arnley brand which I understand is good quality. There was a twist to deal with. The small little switch that pigtails off the harness had a mounting body with an inverted design (see picture). My son discovered he could separate the switch portions from the body and the solution was to use the original mounting part together with the new switch part and it went together perfectly. See the inverted condition in the pic.
I didn’t remove the cluster to reach the connectors under the dash. Instead I was able to get both hands up in there by detaching the fuse block and pushing it out of the way and removing the lower HVAC duct parts. It was way easier than removing the cluster in my opinion.
The new ignition switch works great. The old one was still working but barely. It would regularly need multiple try’s to get it started. The new one is instant.
Here’s the inverted switch thing I mentioned. I’m curious, what does this little switch do?
Is that the switch to indicate that the key is still inserted when the door is opened?
I suppose it could be but I don’t know for sure. The truck is not here now for me to check and even if it is, our chime device may either be non functional or disconnected. I’ll let you know if I find out in the future. I suppose I could check the wiring diagram in the Haynes manual, (if I can find it). lol
Interesting article. One note on the lube. I had one once and on occasions it would continue to engage the starter after the engine started and yes I pulled the switch apart and you cound see a copper track across the contacts. I washed it out and used wheel bearing grease to lubricate it. It never caused another problem. Pulling the switch of to find the area where it is binding is a good suggestion.