The fuel pump arm broke cuz it didn't have the spacer on it I bought a new one from the store and I kept getting sold the wrong one. And it wasn't until I saw it Mazda Mitch's video that I realized the issue there. So I got that fixed up made sure I removed all the and then all flakes and from there I went through all the vacuum lines from the schematic I found and had the intake manifold gasket catastrophically fail. So I had to change the oil multiple times after that and place that gasket as well as the exhaust side. I've done about everything except actually getting into the cylinders. The head is machined since I got it. It's like new water pump new timing belt new thermostat new spark plugs new spark plug wires new distributor cap new coil new starter new battery didn't replace the alternator but it was functioning. There's a lot more I just in space in here at the moment. I'm not at home now but when I get home I'll post a picture of the mess I've got going on there and maybe you guys will notice something that's just plately obvious that I wouldn't cuz I'm no expert

 

Sounds good......pictures would be good. So, have you removed the distributor (and reinstalled it) after you had the engine running again....or not? If you haven't removed it after you had the engine running, then you should be good there.......if you have removed the distributor and reinstalled it, and the engine has not run since then, that is what we need to look at. Let me know and I will check back in later today......I have a 2002 Chevy Silverado that I am replacing the intake manifold gaskets on......hopefully that will cure my "random misfire" issue with it!

 

The factory workshop manual is here: https://mazdaminitruckin.com/service-manual/
Yes, it's for B2200 and B2600i, but almost all relates to the B2000.

Yes, the crankshaft pulley marks and cover with the timing marks are different on the B2000. The ignition timing (of distributor) is the same.

B2000 engines have mechanically adjusted valves - did you check/adjust yours? https://mazdaminitruckin.com/setting-valve-lash/Spray some aerosol starting fluid into the air cleaner or carburetor body, try to start, do this a few times. If it runs for a few seconds then quits out, you have a fuel delivery issue, start there. If it won't run at all when you do this, then it's a spark issue, work on that. This is a common first test to help isolate the problem when the engine spins/cranks. And remember: just because the engine can crank fine, doesn't mean that the electrical part of the ignition switch (the "run" circuit) is OK (test for positive voltage at coil positive terminal with key in "run" position, try 20 times).

 

There's spark to the plug and the fuel level in the carb eas perfect through the viewing window. those are the first things I looked at. Forever I assumed my distributor was bad. But that really doesn't happen often. Then I finally just thought it through and checked all the plugs and they all have spark when cranking the engine. I know fuel is getting from the tank to the carb and spark is getting from the battery to the plugs. Other than the crankshaft and ignition timing, am I missing anything else that's obvious?

 

So it runs for a few seconds when you spray some aerosol starting fluid into the air cleaner or carburetor body, and try to start, do this a few times?

Yes or No?

 

No it cranks and spits a lot of fuel out of the carb and has high pitch sound that kind of winds up