Here’s the lowdown:

Dash lights and electrical have power. Battery holding full charge, tested 3 times. Starter has also been replaced.

Insert ignition key, turn to start. No noise, no start.

Truck wasn’t giving me problems a few weeks back, it only intermittently had this issue, but it always started. Then, it started taking longer and longer to start, and then it just stopped starting.

The truck will start when you roll start it, but that’s it. Runs strong and fine once it get started.

I’ve heard the clutch switch can be the issue, but I’m not sure which one is the clutch switch. I have attached two pictures, could anyone advise me on which one the clutch switch is? I want to wire whichever 2 wires together in order to bypass the clutch switch, and see if that’s the issue.



Switch behind the clutch pedal, closest to the firewall. Two black wires, one has a green stripe.

Switch in front of the clutch pedal, blue and black wires

 

There's also an 80-amp big fuse in the circuit, just rearward of the battery.

The starter interlock switch has B/Y (black yellow stripe) wire going in and B/G (blue green stripe) going to the starter. So your top photo.

The other clutch pedal switch would be disconnect switch for cruise control.

 

So I can splice together the B/G and B/Y wires to bypass the clutch safety switch?

My truck doesn’t have cruise control, does that make a difference?

 

Yes. But first I'd have helper hold ignition switch in start position and hold clutch pedal down all the way, and then test to see if I got positive voltage in the B/G wire. If I did get voltage there, then I'd know the switch is NOT the culprit. So I'd then do similar test at the B/G wire on the small terminal of the starter itself.

 

okay, positive lead on multimeter to wire, negative lead to a ground, correct?

 

Yes. 0-20 VDC scale.

 

Thanks a ton man, I’m not too savvy with electrical. It’s all a learning experience!

 

That's how to learn. These trucks are not too complex (except for the stock carburetor).

 

Found this under the hood, 80A fuse connection is just wired up with wire. Assuming it would work, but maybe not?

 

"Always fix FIRST what you KNOW is bad"

1. I'd test to see of you're getting any 12 volt positive TO the ignition switch, to help our understanding.

2. So someone before you had an issue there, get a replacement fuse for there first. Note that such large fuses are held in by a screw or two from underneath; disconnect negative battery cable first.

You're making progress.