Did just have a problem with dieing when no gas pedal coming to a stop and using water. You could run 70 mph down the freeway no problem. I fixed the water being used by using leak sealer. Good after 100 miles. Truck has 243000 miles on it. It then just quit turning over to start. No click. Found open start switch so used some good outdoor low voltage wire and installed a n.o. switch next to cigar lighter. When I started up and test drove it had low power, jerked, stalling, ran like crap wanted to die. Checked vacuum lines. Has new plugs,wires, distributor cap. It has 2 fuel filters installed. Is this correct? Haven't replaced either one yet. Does it need 2 in series to run? Any help on what to try next is appreciated.

Why 2 fuel filters? Anyone know the stock hose size?

 

Using WATER???

Coolant?

If it was using coolant, and not leaking anywhere, then you have a bad head gasket.......and leak sealer should not be used to fix a bad head gasket.

 

Yes coolant. Quit using 50/50 mix due to expense. Anyway it is fixed now and I am using coolant. Compression is 160 on all cylinders except #3 which is 100. Would that alone make it run that bad? Fuel filters??

 

Only one fuel filter came on these trucks from Mazda......it is the one that is held by the wire "bracket" on the wheel well. A previous Owner probably installed the second one.....probably/maybe because the gas tank on the inside is rusty? If any vehicle sits for a long time, and it has a steel gas tank like these trucks do, then it can rust inside of them.......mainly because the gas we have to use these days has Alcohol in it, and the Alcohol attracts moisture. If the tank is rusty, then the carb will get some rusty sediment in the bowl area, which could start to clog passageways in the carb, creating performance issues.

Here is a pic of the inside of a gas tank in a parts truck that I bought years ago......and the rust got past the fuel filter and into the carb. Truck still ran good though.....





Factory carb fuel bowl......and the truck had a good, fairly new fuel filter on it.....



After the gas evaporated, it left all kinds of sediment......

 

Well what you say may well be my problem. Had the truck for 5years and the last 12 months have had a lot of trouble idling. I'm getting a OEM gas filter tomorrow and getting rid of the extra one. I will try and pull some fuel from the tank side with a large syringe before installing the new filter and see what I get. Thank you so much for the lead. Will post the results.

 

Big difference living in Arizona with less moisture!!! Here's a picture taken inside my own 1988 B2200 fuel tank back in 2009 with the boroscope my daughter gave me, not a speck of rust.

 

eringer.......if you don't have emission's testing in your area, you may want to upgrade your B2000 with a new Redline Weber 32/36 Carburetor, and ditch the factory carb. Once the factory carbs start having issues.....I have learned to just get rid of it and install a Weber carb.......and I'm an old gear head that grew up working on carbs!!

The factory carb is an electronic feedback style of carb, and I have rebuild some of them, with marginal success. Some worked fine after the rebuild, some not so much......but they all were having issues when I decided to rebuild them. I currently have two B2200's & one B2000 right now, and all have Weber's on them......I also have a couple of B2600i trucks as well, So I do know these things pretty well. I quit trying to fix the factory carbs anymore......too much time and energy, and you never know if it will run better or not, after taking it apart for a rebuild!

 

Thanks for the info. There is no emissions testing in my state of Georgia. I'm a retired electronic tech and have lots of time. Don't know about the energy. Lol. Trying to keep it running but don't have a lot of money to put in the truck. A new Weber may be beyond my available funds. What I am worried about is spending the money and then it is still fubared. I've rebuilt chainsaw and other small engine carbs before but never a truck carb. Are the stock carbs easy to get to the jets, float, needle valve. Do you have to take the carb off the intake or can it be rebuilt still installed? Trying to figure out the cheapest way. I bought a foot of 5/16 fuel line today and AutoZone charged me $8.50. What you guys think about Rockauto for parts? Btw compression is 160,160,100,160.

 

I buy a lot of parts from RockAuto.......gotta watch the shipping from multiple places......drives the shipping costs way up!

Stock carb is not fun to rebuild......I always took the carb off for a rebuild. The metering solenoid in the center of the carb will more than likely need new O-rings......you will need to match up the sizes to the old ones.