i have an 85 mazda GLC its basically a 323. anyway it keeps stalling when i put the clutch in to change gears or to stop. plus it idles really rough and trys to die out all the time. im thinking it might be the carburetor or possibly something as simple as spark plugs. i put a new coil and wires on it and that helped a little but it still stalls out.

 

well i just put new plug in it.... it runs better but still does not idle i would like some help please

 

if it runs rughf and wont idel it IS the carb

 

How many miles on your engine? What's its history (maintenance and incidents)?
At that age, it's time for a major checkup. Start with a cylinder compression check. That will give you an idea of the state of the rings, cylinder bores, valves and valve guides. The symptoms you describe are consistent with low compression.
No amount of replacing external bits and pieces will get you back in business if this critical area is deficient.
How much oil are you using? When you changed the plugs, what color were the old ones? [ white/grey= mixture too lean, tan= good, sooty= mixture too rich, oil burning, or engine misfiring]
Also were any of the plugs wet looking?
What about your exhaust color? Black=rich mixture, Blue= burning oil, White= coolant getting into cylinder(s).

 

awwe ****e its mosliky compression cause its not plugs or anything. but it doesnt make sense cause 3 days ago it was idleing fine

 

Don't be judgemental. Do the checks first and then draw an informed conclusion.
If that engine has had core minimal care, you might be in for a pleasant surprise; the 323 has a well deserved reputation for durability. By the way, when did you last check/ change the air filter?

 

the air filter is 4 weeks old plus it still does it with the air box off the carb. i have a question though where would the connecter be for the O2 senser as it has broken off causeing erratic idle. and i can't find where it connects to so i can solder the wire back

 

The O2 sensor connector runs very hot. You better not think about soldered joints on the O2 sensor connector side; better buy another connector - sensor cable assembly.

 

It,s like a 20 minute job to overhaul that carb but the spray pump bore is most likely worn out so like throwing a hotdog down a hallway . A rebuilt carb would most likely be your best bet. That is assuming you have checked for vacuum leaks etc. O2 sensors only work at high rpm (2400 or so) and at 700 degrees so generally do not effect idle. Being disconnected puts it in limp mode with presets. Check the antiafterburn valve for leaks. Pinch off vacuum lines and look for changes in idle.