Mazda 323 '92 - Stalling... read for details
#1
11-17-2006, 01:59 AM
Mazda 323 '92 - Stalling... read for details
Got the car for a while now... 323 1.6 92 manual tranny.
When i start the car, everything is fine it's runs smooth and i quite enjoy it. On the other half when it warms up to maximum heat (and only when maximum temp. it achieved) i sometimes get a check engine light. Problem is... as soon as the light goes off, the car has a tendency not to burn it's gas and smells like gas.... it's unbelievable. I have to litterally ommit stop signs so it won't die. When it happens and i really have to stop let's say a red light, i have to constantly rev it up... gas, release, gas, release.... to keep it alive. Then suddenly, it's fine. It's a great highway runner since it's manual transmission and even if it dies on the highway, it'll compression start itself no problem with a minimal mile/hour loss.
Ok, my opinion was :
When the car is not at max temp (just started), it's a on form of 'choke' (i know it's injector, but i'll still refer it as choke) so it helps the car get the desired running temperature. Once it's achieved, it doesn't need that 'choke' to run... in fact a 'choke' would shut the engine off (think about old lanwmower you had to pull the choke to shut it off)
So i think that i have a bad Water temp sensor that's sending a wrong message to the computer. Sending something like 'Water temp COLD' so the computer tries to put it on 'choke' wich kills the engine.... anyways.. not too sure. BUT
BUT
after reading various 323 problems, i got the codes from the dignostic box... 8 - 9 - 10
chart obtained trough http://autorepair.about.com/cs/gener..._dtcs_main.htm
So, for the question....... was my suspicion close to the problem?
thank you for helping, you guys rock!
and most of all...... What should i do to solve my problem considering that i have theses 3 codes?
EDIT:
Wich brand/manufacturer of parts should i buy? (I'm in Canada)
Once the repairs are done, how to reset the computer codes?
When i start the car, everything is fine it's runs smooth and i quite enjoy it. On the other half when it warms up to maximum heat (and only when maximum temp. it achieved) i sometimes get a check engine light. Problem is... as soon as the light goes off, the car has a tendency not to burn it's gas and smells like gas.... it's unbelievable. I have to litterally ommit stop signs so it won't die. When it happens and i really have to stop let's say a red light, i have to constantly rev it up... gas, release, gas, release.... to keep it alive. Then suddenly, it's fine. It's a great highway runner since it's manual transmission and even if it dies on the highway, it'll compression start itself no problem with a minimal mile/hour loss.
Ok, my opinion was :
When the car is not at max temp (just started), it's a on form of 'choke' (i know it's injector, but i'll still refer it as choke) so it helps the car get the desired running temperature. Once it's achieved, it doesn't need that 'choke' to run... in fact a 'choke' would shut the engine off (think about old lanwmower you had to pull the choke to shut it off)
So i think that i have a bad Water temp sensor that's sending a wrong message to the computer. Sending something like 'Water temp COLD' so the computer tries to put it on 'choke' wich kills the engine.... anyways.. not too sure. BUT
BUT
after reading various 323 problems, i got the codes from the dignostic box... 8 - 9 - 10
Code:
8 Air Flow Meter. 9 Water Thermo Sensor. 10 Intake Air Thermo Sensor (Air Flow Meter).
So, for the question....... was my suspicion close to the problem?
thank you for helping, you guys rock!
and most of all...... What should i do to solve my problem considering that i have theses 3 codes?
EDIT:
Wich brand/manufacturer of parts should i buy? (I'm in Canada)
Once the repairs are done, how to reset the computer codes?
#2
11-20-2006, 06:45 PM
RE: Mazda 323 '92 - Stalling... read for details
bump :P thank you!!!
ORIGINAL: borden
Got the car for a while now... 323 1.6 92 manual tranny.
When i start the car, everything is fine it's runs smooth and i quite enjoy it. On the other half when it warms up to maximum heat (and only when maximum temp. it achieved) i sometimes get a check engine light. Problem is... as soon as the light goes off, the car has a tendency not to burn it's gas and smells like gas.... it's unbelievable. I have to litterally ommit stop signs so it won't die. When it happens and i really have to stop let's say a red light, i have to constantly rev it up... gas, release, gas, release.... to keep it alive. Then suddenly, it's fine. It's a great highway runner since it's manual transmission and even if it dies on the highway, it'll compression start itself no problem with a minimal mile/hour loss.
Ok, my opinion was :
When the car is not at max temp (just started), it's a on form of 'choke' (i know it's injector, but i'll still refer it as choke) so it helps the car get the desired running temperature. Once it's achieved, it doesn't need that 'choke' to run... in fact a 'choke' would shut the engine off (think about old lanwmower you had to pull the choke to shut it off)
So i think that i have a bad Water temp sensor that's sending a wrong message to the computer. Sending something like 'Water temp COLD' so the computer tries to put it on 'choke' wich kills the engine.... anyways.. not too sure. BUT
BUT
after reading various 323 problems, i got the codes from the dignostic box... 8 - 9 - 10
chart obtained trough http://autorepair.about.com/cs/gener..._dtcs_main.htm
So, for the question....... was my suspicion close to the problem?
thank you for helping, you guys rock!
and most of all...... What should i do to solve my problem considering that i have theses 3 codes?
EDIT:
Wich brand/manufacturer of parts should i buy? (I'm in Canada)
Once the repairs are done, how to reset the computer codes?
Got the car for a while now... 323 1.6 92 manual tranny.
When i start the car, everything is fine it's runs smooth and i quite enjoy it. On the other half when it warms up to maximum heat (and only when maximum temp. it achieved) i sometimes get a check engine light. Problem is... as soon as the light goes off, the car has a tendency not to burn it's gas and smells like gas.... it's unbelievable. I have to litterally ommit stop signs so it won't die. When it happens and i really have to stop let's say a red light, i have to constantly rev it up... gas, release, gas, release.... to keep it alive. Then suddenly, it's fine. It's a great highway runner since it's manual transmission and even if it dies on the highway, it'll compression start itself no problem with a minimal mile/hour loss.
Ok, my opinion was :
When the car is not at max temp (just started), it's a on form of 'choke' (i know it's injector, but i'll still refer it as choke) so it helps the car get the desired running temperature. Once it's achieved, it doesn't need that 'choke' to run... in fact a 'choke' would shut the engine off (think about old lanwmower you had to pull the choke to shut it off)
So i think that i have a bad Water temp sensor that's sending a wrong message to the computer. Sending something like 'Water temp COLD' so the computer tries to put it on 'choke' wich kills the engine.... anyways.. not too sure. BUT
BUT
after reading various 323 problems, i got the codes from the dignostic box... 8 - 9 - 10
Code:
8 Air Flow Meter. 9 Water Thermo Sensor. 10 Intake Air Thermo Sensor (Air Flow Meter).
So, for the question....... was my suspicion close to the problem?
thank you for helping, you guys rock!
and most of all...... What should i do to solve my problem considering that i have theses 3 codes?
EDIT:
Wich brand/manufacturer of parts should i buy? (I'm in Canada)
Once the repairs are done, how to reset the computer codes?
#3
11-22-2006, 09:15 PM
RE: Mazda 323 '92 - Stalling... read for details
Ok, i'll reformulate.....323, 1992, Hatchback..
which part should i be changing first? Oxygen sensor or water temp. sensor?
Should i change both?
also, how to remove the code from the computer once my problem is solved?
thank you very much for helping!
which part should i be changing first? Oxygen sensor or water temp. sensor?
Should i change both?
also, how to remove the code from the computer once my problem is solved?
thank you very much for helping!
#4
03-06-2007, 10:43 PM
RE: Mazda 323 '92 - Stalling... read for details
Ok guys, so for all of you who didn't know what it was...
the problem wasactually the coolant temperature sensor... it's the one responsible for all my problems for a long time.
When the car is cold, it runs like a charm (cuz it's on 'choke' - not really choke since it's injected computer assist - stage), when it gets warmer, ('choke' gets removed) and its runs for a bit... then the sensor sends a wrong message to computer saying the car is somewhat cold, or not warmed up... so it puts it back into the 'choke' mode to warm it up. Wich is why my engine kept on dying all the time
remember those old weed-eaters? they had no stop switch, just a pull on choke to kill... same thing here!
the problem wasactually the coolant temperature sensor... it's the one responsible for all my problems for a long time.
When the car is cold, it runs like a charm (cuz it's on 'choke' - not really choke since it's injected computer assist - stage), when it gets warmer, ('choke' gets removed) and its runs for a bit... then the sensor sends a wrong message to computer saying the car is somewhat cold, or not warmed up... so it puts it back into the 'choke' mode to warm it up. Wich is why my engine kept on dying all the time
remember those old weed-eaters? they had no stop switch, just a pull on choke to kill... same thing here!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Pez
Mazda 323,Mazda 626 & Mazda 929
3
12-07-2008 08:21 PM
MotorCity
Detailing
1
11-17-2007 02:17 PM
Nataku02
Mazda Miata (MX-5)
3
02-07-2006 12:05 AM
