98 626 Cranks but won't start - no spark no power at coil
#1
08-04-2009, 11:25 PM
98 626 Cranks but won't start - no spark no power at coil
I have a 4 Cyl 1998 626 thats turns over, but won't start. I took it to a local shop, they replaced a fusible link, put a new Coil on (this year doesn't use a distributor) and replaced the Crank Shaft Position Sensor.
I picked the car up from the shop, it started up extremely easily, no hesitation and ran great. I drove it about 2 miles and parked it. Came back 2 hours later, and the car won't start again. All the same symptoms.
Now that I have the car in a location that I can work on it, I'd like to give a go at solving the problem.
So far ontop of the work the shop did, new fuse coil and Crank Sensor, I've put in new plugs and wires.
I've used a spark plug tester and don't get any spark when the engine turns over from any of the spark plug wires. As well, when I test the + and - leads that supply power to the coil with the ignition key on I don't get any power.
So it appears the problem is an issue with the Coil not receiving power. Any thoughts on how to test this further?
The Fusible Link is still good, checked it with a voltmeter for continuity and tried a new one just in case.
My understanding is that the Crank Position Sensor, if defective would prevent the cars computer from grounding the lead that goes to the coil. And so I should use a light tester and test the positive lead going to the coil with a different ground i.e. the battery terminal.
Is there any other tests I should check as far as relays or fuses etc?
Thanks in advance for the help.
-----------
Past vehicle history. I've recently had some electrical problems with the car. For a while it was sluggish to start so a mechanic regrounded the car, that helped. Recently another mechanic trimmed the battery terminals off and put new ones on. However the new terminals have very poor connections to the wires, so they often wiggle loose, causing the car to stall when I stop abruptly or make it click once and then go dead when I turn it over after a stop. Usually I retighten the bolts and all is well.
I picked the car up from the shop, it started up extremely easily, no hesitation and ran great. I drove it about 2 miles and parked it. Came back 2 hours later, and the car won't start again. All the same symptoms.
Now that I have the car in a location that I can work on it, I'd like to give a go at solving the problem.
So far ontop of the work the shop did, new fuse coil and Crank Sensor, I've put in new plugs and wires.
I've used a spark plug tester and don't get any spark when the engine turns over from any of the spark plug wires. As well, when I test the + and - leads that supply power to the coil with the ignition key on I don't get any power.
So it appears the problem is an issue with the Coil not receiving power. Any thoughts on how to test this further?
The Fusible Link is still good, checked it with a voltmeter for continuity and tried a new one just in case.
My understanding is that the Crank Position Sensor, if defective would prevent the cars computer from grounding the lead that goes to the coil. And so I should use a light tester and test the positive lead going to the coil with a different ground i.e. the battery terminal.
Is there any other tests I should check as far as relays or fuses etc?
Thanks in advance for the help.
-----------
Past vehicle history. I've recently had some electrical problems with the car. For a while it was sluggish to start so a mechanic regrounded the car, that helped. Recently another mechanic trimmed the battery terminals off and put new ones on. However the new terminals have very poor connections to the wires, so they often wiggle loose, causing the car to stall when I stop abruptly or make it click once and then go dead when I turn it over after a stop. Usually I retighten the bolts and all is well.
#2
11-25-2022, 04:46 PM
I have 200 protege just bought it cranks no start I have no spark and no power to fue
I have a 4 Cyl 1998 626 thats turns over, but won't start. I took it to a local shop, they replaced a fusible link, put a new Coil on (this year doesn't use a distributor) and replaced the Crank Shaft Position Sensor.
I picked the car up from the shop, it started up extremely easily, no hesitation and ran great. I drove it about 2 miles and parked it. Came back 2 hours later, and the car won't start again. All the same symptoms.
Now that I have the car in a location that I can work on it, I'd like to give a go at solving the problem.
So far ontop of the work the shop did, new fuse coil and Crank Sensor, I've put in new plugs and wires.
I've used a spark plug tester and don't get any spark when the engine turns over from any of the spark plug wires. As well, when I test the + and - leads that supply power to the coil with the ignition key on I don't get any power.
So it appears the problem is an issue with the Coil not receiving power. Any thoughts on how to test this further?
The Fusible Link is still good, checked it with a voltmeter for continuity and tried a new one just in case.
My understanding is that the Crank Position Sensor, if defective would prevent the cars computer from grounding the lead that goes to the coil. And so I should use a light tester and test the positive lead going to the coil with a different ground i.e. the battery terminal.
Is there any other tests I should check as far as relays or fuses etc?
Thanks in advance for the help.
-----------
Past vehicle history. I've recently had some electrical problems with the car. For a while it was sluggish to start so a mechanic regrounded the car, that helped. Recently another mechanic trimmed the battery terminals off and put new ones on. However the new terminals have very poor connections to the wires, so they often wiggle loose, causing the car to stall when I stop abruptly or make it click once and then go dead when I turn it over after a stop. Usually I retighten the bolts and all is well.
I picked the car up from the shop, it started up extremely easily, no hesitation and ran great. I drove it about 2 miles and parked it. Came back 2 hours later, and the car won't start again. All the same symptoms.
Now that I have the car in a location that I can work on it, I'd like to give a go at solving the problem.
So far ontop of the work the shop did, new fuse coil and Crank Sensor, I've put in new plugs and wires.
I've used a spark plug tester and don't get any spark when the engine turns over from any of the spark plug wires. As well, when I test the + and - leads that supply power to the coil with the ignition key on I don't get any power.
So it appears the problem is an issue with the Coil not receiving power. Any thoughts on how to test this further?
The Fusible Link is still good, checked it with a voltmeter for continuity and tried a new one just in case.
My understanding is that the Crank Position Sensor, if defective would prevent the cars computer from grounding the lead that goes to the coil. And so I should use a light tester and test the positive lead going to the coil with a different ground i.e. the battery terminal.
Is there any other tests I should check as far as relays or fuses etc?
Thanks in advance for the help.
-----------
Past vehicle history. I've recently had some electrical problems with the car. For a while it was sluggish to start so a mechanic regrounded the car, that helped. Recently another mechanic trimmed the battery terminals off and put new ones on. However the new terminals have very poor connections to the wires, so they often wiggle loose, causing the car to stall when I stop abruptly or make it click once and then go dead when I turn it over after a stop. Usually I retighten the bolts and all is well.
2000 Mazda protege will not start....
I have no start but will crank I have no spark and no power to fuel pump I changed all fuses relays and everything else but the ignition anyone have any advice???
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
