CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHERE THE FUEL FILTER IS ON THIS CAR AND HOW TO REMOVE IT? OR IS THERE MORE THAN ONE? I HAVE A GAS TANK THAT IS CLOGGED OR SOMETHING , WHEN I BOUGHT THE CAR THE GUY THAT SOLD IT TO ME SAID THERE WAS A VENT CLOGGED IN THE FUEL TANK. WHEN I GOTO PUT FUEL IN THE TANK IF YOU PUT IT IN TO FAST IT WILL SPILL OUT, I HAVE TO PUT IT IN LIKE 20CENTS AT A TIME. RECENTLY THE CAR HAS NOT BEEN STARTING AFTER FILLING IT WITH FUEL. WHEN I TRY CRANKING THE CAR IT ALMOST WANTS TO START WITH THE GAS CAP OPEN AND BETWEEN CRANKING I HEAR SOMETHING 2-3 TIMES LIKE A RUMBLING OR AIR MOVING UNDERNEATH THE CAR TO THE ENGINE. I AM THINKING IT MAY BE A CLOGGED OR BAD FUEL FILTER CAUSING ALL THIS PROBLEM BUT I REALLY AM NOT SURE, WHY WOULD THE TANK BE CLOGGED? IS THERE REALLY A VENT IN THE TANK? THAT DOES NOT SOUND RIGHT TO ME, BUT I REALLY DON'T KNOW I AM GOING BASED ON WHAT SOMEONE SAID. ORIGINALLY I THOUGHT MY STARTING PROBLEM WAS SPARK PLUGS GETTING HIT WITH OIL FROM A VALVE COVER GASKET LEAK, BUT AFTER CHANGING THE PLUGS TWICE AND WIRES ONCE, ITS DEF SOME TYPE OF FUEL PROBLEM CAUSE ITS HAPPENING ONLY AFTER I FILL THE TANK WITH GAS IT WONT START FOR A COUPLE OF DAYS THEN IT WILL START RIGHT UP AND ONCE IT STARTS IT KEEPS STARTING UNTIL YOU FILL IT WITH GAS AGAIN AND THEN IT DOES THE SAME THING ALL OVER AGAIN.

CAN ANYONE HELP ON THIS?

THANKS A BUNCH
CUGENE

 

Some gas tanks have vents. They serve two purposes.

1) if the tank gets warm the gas expands. This puts pressure onto the seams, if the pressure gets too high then it's possible a seam could rupture. If there is a vent then the gas fumes can escape and the pressure won't build up.

2) As you've noticed, if liquid goes in then some of the displaced air has to come out. It can come out the same hole (which would cause it to bubble and glug, try putting your lips around a beer bottle to seal it and drinking. It will come out at first and then won't until you let air in...) or you could have a second hole and it will come out faster as air can travel in through the second hole. (repeat with a beer can, punch a second hole near the bottom as you're drinking and notice the difference).

So, it is possible that there is a clogged vent. I don't know if the Haynes/Chilton manuals would help, but you might want to check.

I hope that this helps,

Z.

 

I guess I should add that I am aware of four different locations used for Fuel filters so it could be on any of these...

1) In the tank outlet.

2) In the fuel line under the car between the tank and the engine compartment

3) In the engine compartment on the firewall

4) On the engine (actually on the carburetor body, but your car will be fuel injected and I don't know if that is ever done with fuel injection cars)

I realise that this doesn't help you at all. The Autozone web site will usually tell you the actual location. It will be a metal canister in a fuel line, it might be a replaceable paper filter that goes inside the canister. It can be anywhere from about 1/2 an inch in diameter up to a couple of inches in diameter and usually two to three inches long. It is possible that your fuel system is pressurised in which case you will need to take precautions replacing it. Having said that if it is flanked with rubber connecting hose I have had success clamping that hose shut and replacing the filter and then releasing the clamps.

I hope that this helps,

Z.

 

Your fuel filter is located just to the rear and below the air cleaner housing. Filter should not really have an effect of not starting after refueling but is certainly not a bad idea to replace it if you do not know how long it has been since last replacement. Is this no start condition very consistant after refueling or is possible just happened as a fluke thing?? Have seen some hard start/long crank time and rough run after start up just after refueling but has been on 3 and 6 cars due to a purge solenoid valve being stuck open. Do you know where the charcoal canister is on your 626 cugene?? There is something you might be able to try to see if your canister is being overly saturated with fuel vapors and a stuck open purge valve is causing your no start problem.
The canister should be located a little further back from where the fuel filter is. You will be looking kind of under the brake master cylinder area. Will be a black cylinder approx 5 inches in diameter and 7 inches tall with two vacuum line plugged into the top.

 

hey thanks guys , i must say you are real gentlemen for coming to my aid on this. and yes it happens evrytime i fill up now it wont start for a couple days then i get it started and it starts fine evrytime until i fuel up again , then it does the samw thing. the tank has been giving me problems since i got the car, you have to fill it very slowly if not the gas spills out.

i will try what you said babyhuey and i appreciate all the support zwack.

AND HEY ISN'T IT GREAT I'M NOT YELLING, SOMEONE ACTUALLY TOOK THE TIME ON A POST TO POINT OUT THAT I WAS YELLING CAUSE I HAD MY CAPS LOCK ON(BY MISTAKE, I NEVER TOOK NOTICE), WHEN I WAS TRYING TO HELP SOMEONE OUT INSTEAD OF ASKING FOR HELP(as usual), WHEN THEY ACTUALLY COULD HAVE RESPONDED TO TRY TO HELP THE PERSON OUT POSTING INSTEAD OF BEING A CRITIC.

oh well thanks, glad you guys are there, especially my pal babyhuey.

 

I DID NOT THINK YOU WERE YELLING CUGENE BUT JUST FORGOT TO TURN THE CAPS LOCK OFF AS I OFTEN DO.Just let know if you are able to locate the charcoal canister. If this no start is happening every time you refuel then good chance that the two are related in some way. What Zwack said was true about pressure difference. If you are pushing a bunch of liquid (gas) into the tank then the vapors inside will be displaced and need somewhere to go. That place to go is the charcoal canister. There are two vapor vent valves on top of your fuel tank that allow this pressure to escape and they are both routed to the canister under the brake master cylinder area via vapor lines. The other line from the canister goes to the purge valve which should open only when fully warmed up and at a cruise speed. If you locate this canister then would have you remove both lines that are going to it and just leave them disconnected. Fuel vapors will then not be able to saturate this possible clogged canister and allow you to refuel normally and since the purge valve is also no longer connected to the other line the engine may just start up fine after this refueling.

 

I DID NOT THINK YOU WERE YELLING CUGENE BUT JUST FORGOT TO TURN THE CAPS LOCK OFF AS I OFTEN DO.Just let know if you are able to locate the charcoal canister. If this no start is happening every time you refuel then good chance that the two are related in some way. What Zwack said was true about pressure difference. If you are pushing a bunch of liquid (gas) into the tank then the vapors inside will be displaced and need somewhere to go. That place to go is the charcoal canister. There are two vapor vent valves on top of your fuel tank that allow this pressure to escape and they are both routed to the canister under the brake master cylinder area via vapor lines. The other line from the canister goes to the purge valve which should open only when fully warmed up and at a cruise speed. If you locate this canister then would have you remove both lines that are going to it and just leave them disconnected. Fuel vapors will then not be able to saturate this possible clogged canister and allow you to refuel normally and since the purge valve is also no longer connected to the other line the engine may just start up fine after this refueling.

 

As always babyhuey, many thanks and much appreciation for all your support.

I will give it a shot all the advice you gave.

All the best to you,
cugene