Hi All. I have a 2003 Mazda 323 hatch, auto, with 194000 km on it. Starts and runs well.
when put into reverse, all good. When I select Drive, 2 1, I get no drive. No weird noises. Shift cable bracket and connection good, no wear, Have heard it is common at this milage. Anyone experienced it and have advice for the problem?

 

When was the last transmission service done and what was it?

 

Hi Callisto. I am unsure on the history of the car. It was my mother in laws who recently passed. The fluid seems ok, no burnt smell etc. My next step is to pull the pan and check the filter to see what it is like.
A family member who had discussed this with a mechanic, was told this is a common, easy fix, at around 194000 kms. I'm not seeing it anywhere else. I don't have much experience with auto trans, and thought I would come on here to ask the experts.

 

If you look carefully before you remove the pan see if it looks like the drain plug or any pan bolts have ever been removed. Look for sealer that is not neat between the pan and transmission , any marks on the pan bolts from a socket or wrench . This is your first clue to get for the next step what you find more in the pan not so mush in the filter. Then take a clean light color rag and wipe any random area of the valve body and see how much dark color oil come off .

I am not really agreeing with the assessment the mechanic gave as very accurate not having done the above suggested service ? He must ask the famous 8 ball the questions for his answers?

 

Removed the pan and it appears to be a loooooong time since a service was done. No metal on the magnet, a considerable amount of sludge/material in the pan.
Replaced the filter and cleaned up the pan and looked around and couldn't see anything that would cause a worry. Fitted the pan and new fluid. started it and got up to temp. Added a bit more fluid and got it to the full hot level.
I discovered that if I put it in 1, 2, D and gently rev it (on jack stands), I get no drive. If i blip the throttle, forward gears will engage and drive through all of them smoothly. Reverse still works as normal. If i reverse and try to go forward again, same thing..... need to blip the throttle to get the drive to engage. Road tested it and achieved the same result.... seems smooth through the gear changes. It sounds like a sticking valve or something like that.

 

OK I wish I had caught you sooner.

DISCLAIMER: The last ditch effort to save a transmission that has been neglected and this is a nonprofessional DIY method only! A shop would never do this because there are no guarantees of results.
While the pan off I would have emptied a large can (maybe 2 of WD-40 (it is a solvent and the residue will not harm even a new transmission) on everything(parts) you could see. I would have also taken a can of SEAFOAM(any they are actually all the same formula the engine is more available that the can marketed for transmissions) and used it along the new ATF. When done I would drive about 100 miles (at least 50 miles straight highway speeds)and then drained only the pan fluid and replaced it. This usually yields a markable improvement and if you did a service about every 300 miles a couple of time may even get an additional 20-30,00 miles on that transmission.

This only works as long as there was not a high degree of copper metal flakes and the strong smell and signs of burnt friction plate material in the pan.