Ill give those a shot as well this weekend. As soon as I check readings on IAC motor ill report back on that. Ill have that info in a couple hours. Im just wondering if the IAC motor itself is just bad, or going bad.

 

Im pretty sure the IAC is working. I tested the resistance, and it was 9.3 ohms. Not sure how accurate it that is, considering it was 40 degrees outside yesterday when I got home, plus I had just driven it about a mile or so. But I also unplugged it and started it up. While unplugged I turned on miscellaneous electrical components and with each one the engine would almost die. With it plugged in, it idles up slightly and settles. So with that, im pretty sure its working. I think for now, im just going to drive it a few days since ive jacked with it so much this week, resetting computer, etc, and see if itll maybe just clear itself out. I appreciate you guys chiming in on all of this. If I end up finally figuring it out, ill post up what it was.

 

No real updates. I did put a few hundred miles on it this weekend. Headed down to Denver to a U Pull and Pay just to see if there were any parts at all that I could use. The idle is still weird unfortunately. Of course if I push in on the clutch coming to a stop, itll drop low, and bounce back up. Sometimes with the bounce itll stay high around 1500 rpms, sometimes itll bounce then go back to 750. Couple things to add also. Ive noticed that when Im driving, slow and trying to keep a steady speed, 10 - 30 mph, if I barely move my foot just the slightest bit, whether letting off the gas or giving more, it really jerks and bucks for a split second. If im giving gas and getting up to speed like on the highway, all is fine. Its just the slightest movements of the accelerator make it buck pretty bad. Im starting to wonder if all the chasing ive been doing might just be the TPS?

 

Nice thing: TPS can be tested. Make sure you have the proper specs for your test. I think this video is quite instructive:https://search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?...&hsimp=yhs-004

and:

 

Im going to test it this afternoon. Would love to finally trace down my issue and get it resolved.

 

Finally was able to test TPS just now. Low end was .555 volts. Slowly moved throttle to wide open. Wide open was 5.29 volts. But, on the way to wide open and back down, right at 4.0 volts, the reading on multimeter went haywire then back to normal. Does it every time on the way open and closing.

 

I think you found your problem. I don't know the values you should be getting but I do know the multimeter should show a smooth progression going towards WOT and back to closed.
My guess is that the throttle spends a lot of time at that exact spot and the sensor wore out.
Richpin on Youtube used to have a video on that. I couldn't find it right now.

 

I'm within spec on the values, almost. A little low on the WOT, but not by much. But yes, it should be smooth all the way with no drop. I'm hoping this is my issue, but where I'm having my stumble is basically just off of idle, not near WOT. Its just jerky and bucks a bit when I'm trying to hold steady at low speeds if I barely move my foot. I am going to replace the cap and rotor this weekend. I pulled it off earlier, and the contacts had quite a bit of buildup on them. I lightly sanded and cleaned em up for now. Unfortunately that didn't stop the bucking. I will get this thing figured out, somehow!

 

That reminds me: the distributor contains the ignition coil and the camshaft position sensor. There is a plastic cap just below the rotor and under it sits the camshaft position sensor. The distributor shaft has a seal that can wear out and leak oil into the sensor compartment. That oil can mess up the sensor signal. It's worth to check. That seal is not replaceable. Only the outer O-ring is replaceable.

I replaced the distributor in my '98 Protege with a Cardone re-manufactured one. It ran much better after that. I am sure the new coil was responsible for that. But I did not have the same symptoms that you have.

Just a thought.....

 

Definitely appreciate that info. I will check that this weekend. It is running smoother now that I cleaned up cap and rotor. Still has the bucking though at low speed. I ordered a TPS yesterday. Hopefully it'll be here this weekend. I know mine is bad, but not sure if it's the root of my issues. So I'll replace it and get that out of the way at least.

The main thing I'm noticing as far as my high idle, and no clue if there's anything I can do about it, is with my power steering. I know that when you turn the wheel or put a load on the engine, it will idle up. But I've noticed that turning the steering wheel causes the idle to go way high, and that's when it seems to stick and stay at high rpms. Sometimes, even when the engine is totally warm and idling at 750, if I turn the steering wheel, itll idle up to about 1500 and stay there. I know, I've got lots of issues apparently, but there has to be some sort of common denominator here, just need to find it.