ok 95 maz 626 auto. it idles SUPER rough. changed plugs wires distributor cap. injector o rings replaced. replaced battery. when i hit the brakes or air conditioner it idles rougher or when i use the electric windows. its idles super bad and eventually dies. ive checked for vacuum leaks , cant find any. umm adjusted the timing so it would idle higher but it still starts to idle back down and stumbles and dies. ****ing car sucks. actually its ok but it just runs like **** all the time but it will drive anywhere.

anyone got IDEAS

 

cel pops up every now and then also. is there anyway to check the light on the 95's???

 

Check and clean the EGR valve and channels and orifices. EricTheCarGuy has a good video on this on Youtube.
Give it a "Seafoam" treatment.
Check the alternator and battery.
The 95 may have OBD I diagnostic codes. you can read them by noting the blinking patterns.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...43148975,d.b2I

good luck

 

Have the engine running, slowly start running water over the intake manifold & fuel rail, listen for any slurping noises and any drop in idle speed.

If it drops idle or slurps then you need either a intake manifold gasket and/or injector seals.

 

Ignition Coils anyone?
i'm sure with a 1995 model there is enough mileage on it, although the person asking advice has left out some info.
Please read: https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/new...-avatar-30905/ from this forum and input your necessary info.

 

I kind of look for a bit of feed back by Micheal Stroud.

My very first thought was a bad air intake hose but Micheal says no vacuum leak. Grim-
Reaper thinks along the same line.
The brake booster could be another source of a difficult to detect vacuum leak. Take the booster hose off and plug the hole to the intake. Does it runm better?
but what gets me is that electrical draw makes it go worse. That's why I suggested to test the charging system. And Noggin noticed that the ignition coil(s) was not changed.
I don't think it was a good idea to adjust timing to raise the idle speed. You adjust the idle speed with the idle speed adjustment screw.

You could also take these brand new plugs out and have a look at them. Maybe it helps to narrow down which cylinders makes trouble.

Anyways let us know what you did and what happend thereafter.

 

i seafoamed and changed the oil(which it was due for) replace pcv valve on top of the valve cover and the grommet. and it runs about 90 percent better!!!!! theres still SOMETHING that needs to be replaced/cleaned but for the now that seafoam TOTALLY made the car run alot better.

 

All right Micheal! Thanks for the feed back. A proper Seafoam treatment removes deposits on the intake valves. If this improved it that much I can imagine that there is still stuff sticking to something.
Go back to post #3. and pay the EGR system some attention.
Beyond that: Could you describe in detail what the engine is doing when?

Whenever an engine is running badly for a while I see the potential for stuff getting stuck in the honeycomb matrix of the catalytic converter. You could attack that by using 1 gal of lacquer thinner (not paint thinner!) in half a tank of gas and running it for 100 miles or so mostly on the interstate.