Greetings!

I have a 2000 Mazda 626 V6 5 speed manual with 183,XXX miles on it. I have taken great care of this car, all regular scheduled maintenance etc... and it's been a good one. Runs like a top. Only thing that seems to be wrong with it is it gets this burning rubber or burning clutch type smell through the air vents after it's been run hard and when it's stopped. Only when it is stopped. If the car is moving at all, the smell goes away. If the car is stopped and idling, the smell comes back (unless I turn the fan off). Also, the harder I drive it (high RPMs) the more prevalent the smell is. There is no smoke involved at all. It does use some oil, but not a ton, and there are no coolant leaks. Check engine light comes on every now and then, but as soon as I fill the gas tank, it goes out every time. Any ideas what this smell could be and what is causing it?

 

For the check engine light, get a code pulled. I'd say evap canister. The hoses are what is likely bad. The canister should be behind your left rear tire under the fuel tank. They run close to $300. You probably need to take the fuel tank off to replace it PROPERLY, though you could cut through the mounting bracket and ghetto rig it. Either way, if the code says evap, change the hoses coming from the canister first.

For the smell, if you haven't changed your clutch yet, 183k is a good long life for a clutch. Check that and the slave cylinder (usually on front or side of trans bell housing...it'll have brake hydraulic lines running to it). If the cylinder is leaking, youll wanna change it quick, or your clutch will stop grabbing (no hydraulc pressure to hold it against the flywheel). Leaking or not, you'll probably want to check your clutch as well, just to be safe.

If you're losing oil and there are no apparent leaks. Try a slightly heavier oil than manufacturor recommended. I'm supposed to take 10W-30, but I'm lost a quart every 1500 or so, and switched to 10W-40. Seems to be working out fine now. Old engines do that.

Just curious - are you FWD or RWD?

 

Thanks VourTinto, this is a FWD. I've always run Mobil 1 and am now using the High Mileage version (10W-30 or 40) and seems to work well. Also a little Lucas Product oil treatment from time to time.

I forgot to mention that the car has been getting this smell for about two years now, and is usually most present after coming off of the highway. Would run 70-75 MPH for 35 miles (daily commute), get off on the exit ramp and coast to the first stop light and there is the smell. Very little if any use of the clutch for 35 miles. Clutch has always performed well. Chatters in 1st gear from time to time, but I figured that to be operator error. If I take a short trip around town and drive it like I stole it, I get the same smell just as intense once I come to a stop light (and only if the interior vents fan is on).

I've searched other forums for folks posting with identical symptoms and come up with several different diagnoses, from clutch, to oil roasting in the valley/intake manifold, to electrical problems causing wires to heat up and start burning off the their insulation.

 

From your description, I would also have to guess clutch. Burning oil smells different than a burning clutch or brakes.
Chances are good your clutch is worn and slipping, Either the disk has lost it's lining (or is down to rivets. Same thing) or the pressure plate has lost it's spring ability to grip. Diaphragm clutches have a full circle spring steel disk that applies pressure to the gripping surface. It has fingers the throw out bearing depresses to engage (release) the clutch for shifting. If several of the fingers are worn, or the spring diaphragm has lost it's tension you are getting early warning signs of a bad clutch. And since you don't say whether or not it has been replaced already, I would assume 183k and done.

 

And of course, if it is his stock clutch, 183k is a pretty good lifetime for it, as mine only went to 75k =p. Unfortunately about 20k after that my slave cylinder went and burned up my 2nd disk. Now, I have a stage 3 and brand new cylinder =D.

Definitely the clutch, and after two years of that I'm surprised you can still drive the thing. You may need a new flywheel as well, as if it is down to the rivets, as mentioned above, you're probably scratching the heck out of it. At the very least, it'll have to be turned, but this is something I'd get done ASAP if its been going on this long. The reason you only get it after you stop is because it needs the time to build up the smell, and when you're moving the air is carrying the smell under and behind the car before it gets a chance to make its way into the vent system.

At any rate, youre looking at slave cylinder, ~$50. Stock clutch kit (bearings, pressure plate, disk) ~$200. Flywheel, if it needs it, ~$250. If you're looking for a decently priced performance clutch kit, I got mine from http://southbendclutch.com . The site is a bit hard to navigate, but its worth it - I got my stage 3 for $265 (98 protege...might be a little more on your 626). They've got some pretty decent flywheels there too for $450-500, depending.

 

Thanks so much, you've been a big help and it's much appreciated. I will take all this info and move forward with it ASAP.

Ken

 

I have the exact same problem Skawee describes. Down to every detail, but I have a 2002 MPV with 85K miles. Obviously not a clutch issue with me. My check engine light is on. "Very small evap system leak" is the issue but I don't think it has anything to do with the smell. Any thoughts?

 

could still be the clutch - typical lifetime is 75-100k...unless youre in an automatic. an evap system leak would give you a gasoline smell. The clutch smells like burning rubber...

 

I guess my point is I have an automatic and my smell issue is exactly the same so I am thinking it is not a clutch problem but something else.

Skawee,
If you have had your problem resolved, let me know the out come. Thanks.

 

This is interesting. My uncle is a retired Mazda mechanic and seems to know my car inside and out. When ever I needed maintenance or had some kind of issue with it, I would buy the parts and we would work on it together. Now, he swears it's not a clutch problem, but I think he may be getting sick and tired of working on this car (or any other for that matter), so he may have an ulterior motive when he makes this claim. That is why I posted the question here and other forums.....I wanted other opinions, and I got 'em. Some go along with what my uncle says (probably oil burning in some manifold somewhere) and some go along with my gut instinct (worn clutch).

OK DAS92, now that you have posted your concern about your MPV, I am once again hesitant to spend a ton of $ replacing my clutch. My Uncle tells me i should just sell the 626 and buy a fresh vehicle. I took part of his advise and am the proud new owner of a 2009 VW Jetta TDI, but I love my 626 and can't seem to bring myself to sell it. Especially sense it's a much better car that it is worth monetarily...not to mention it's paid for.
I will do that for sure. Like wise, if you figure out your problem first, please let me know.

Two main factors have me scratching my head and questioning the clutch issue.

#1 You (DAS92) have an automatic and have the same symptoms.

#2 I have been having this problem for two years with about the same intensity, yet the car has always driven well from start to stop through all gears. Maybe the clutch is worn and needs replaced, but it surely does not drive that way.

Given this, lets just say for the sake of argument that my car is also an automatic. Anything else this issue could be related to?