Ignition lock cylinder jam
#1
09-21-2022, 11:15 PM
Ignition lock cylinder jam
I recently got into 3D printing and I printed a key for my 2015 Mazda 5 sport (similar to the mazda3 between 2009 and 2013).
The door worked with the printed key so I proceeded to test it on the ignition lock (I also learned that there is no lock on the front passenger door neither the rear hatch which is new to me).
The key worked to turn to the starter position without much effort but the engine did not move until the immobilizer chip is programmed. At least the key works which my local locksmith could not even do.
When I tried to pull the key out of the ignition, the key only moved halfway before it got stuck. I tried to pull it with an grippy applier and it eventually broke in half. I was holding half of the blade while the other half stayed inside the cylinder.
Now that the cylinder stops working and all the online resources on cylinder removal require the cylinder to be turned to ACC. position to expose the release pin on the side. My question is is this a car problem or a lock problem? I am tryingnto figure out which has the better chance I have to get the cylinder rebuilt.
My 20/20 hindsight is if I were to do it all over again, I would remove the cylinder and do a bench key test rather than having it tested in the car. That way at least I can rebuild the cylinder myself. But now anything I think of will involve in destroying the housing just to get the cylinder out.
If there is a way to bypass the cylinder lock but still give the functionality of all the key positions, I would try it.
The door worked with the printed key so I proceeded to test it on the ignition lock (I also learned that there is no lock on the front passenger door neither the rear hatch which is new to me).
The key worked to turn to the starter position without much effort but the engine did not move until the immobilizer chip is programmed. At least the key works which my local locksmith could not even do.
When I tried to pull the key out of the ignition, the key only moved halfway before it got stuck. I tried to pull it with an grippy applier and it eventually broke in half. I was holding half of the blade while the other half stayed inside the cylinder.
Now that the cylinder stops working and all the online resources on cylinder removal require the cylinder to be turned to ACC. position to expose the release pin on the side. My question is is this a car problem or a lock problem? I am tryingnto figure out which has the better chance I have to get the cylinder rebuilt.
My 20/20 hindsight is if I were to do it all over again, I would remove the cylinder and do a bench key test rather than having it tested in the car. That way at least I can rebuild the cylinder myself. But now anything I think of will involve in destroying the housing just to get the cylinder out.
If there is a way to bypass the cylinder lock but still give the functionality of all the key positions, I would try it.
#2
09-24-2022, 01:15 PM
I was able to use the hammer method to get the cylinder to turn and exposed the release pin. After the cylinder was pulled out, everything went smoothly from there. The plastic fragment was removed and I even managed not to lose any tumblers or springs. The stock key worked seamlessly after the cylinder was cleaned and regreased and put back into the car.
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Pappa T
Mazda 323,Mazda 626 & Mazda 929
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