I'm fixing up an old trailer to trailer my Miata. I'm planning to install fixed chocks in front of the front tires, and fixed side rails. The idea is to prevent forward and sideways movement and make it easy to position the car exactly (centered, correct tongue weight. Of course I will still use all appropriate strapping. I can't find any discussion of this particular question. I can't be the first to think of this. Is there some reason no one else does this? Thanks.

 

Usually, trailers are equipped with slotted rails in the floor. This allows you to strap anything down. Trailers are a large enough expense that I like to use them for other things. With the rails, you can strap all four wheels and a safety chain too. Going down the road, this set up will allow the hauled vehicles suspension to cycle and improve the trip for both the tow vehicle and the trailer. Most trailers don't have shock absorbers.

 

thank you Grouch. Do you use straps through the wheels or "loops" that go over the top of the tires? My main question is a little different. My trailer is not a car hauler but a general purpose utility trailer. I can permanently attach D-rings, chocks or other attachments anywhere I want them. I plan to install permanent, strong chocks bolted to the deck and 2" side guides just outside the tire sidewalls. Chocks and guides to prevent movement and allow for easy, perfect positioning. I am not concerned with potential interference with other stuff I might haul, which would only ever be garage sale junk for the church garage sale. I don't intend to haul other cars, in fact the permanent chocks and guides will give me a good excuse not to! These will not be a substitute for proper straps. I will strap down as if I didn't have the guides and chocks.

I've read all about scraping down wheels vs. axle or other sprung component. I will probably use the tow hooks in the front and the wheels in the back. Half right, half wrong on matter what.

In appearance the trailer looks like junk, but functionally its like a new trailer. New electric brakes one axle, hubs, new wheels, tires, LED lighting, chains. If my early experience dictakes I will add brakes to the 2nd axle. I'm going to act as if the appearance is intentional. It's going to be a rat trailer!

The chocks and guides seem like a good thing but I haven't seen it done by others (I just started paying attention to other rigs). Am I missing something?

Thanks again

Gil - NB

 

In 50 years I've used all sorts of toweds. First off, sprung and unsprung weights vary. Unsprung weight is the axles and such. Sprung weight is everything supported by the springs, hence the name.My preferred method of securing the vehicle is to use tire straps to hold the vehicle down and in place. This allows the suspension to cycle and absorb road shocks. When I did some rally racing I actually strapped all four wheels down as we were going WAY back in the boonies on some really rough roads. I've seen the rear of a car actually move. Not much, the safety chain stopped it, but some. While I have strapped the axles down, I don't like to do that in case a metal brake line gets crushed.

For a wheel chock, I worked in logistics and sometimes we would get triangular 4X4's in rail cars. Instead of being square, they were triangular. They make dandy chocks. I never bolted them down as I would pull them and put them behind as I unload a vehicle. That way, if it gets away from you, the wood will slow or stop it enough to regain control.

How is your trailer built? What size? I'm assuming it's at least a tandem axle since you mentioned differing axles. You want brakes on your front axle at least. Most states require that. If you want twin axle brakes, make sure your controller can handle them.

On your tie downs, Be careful they don't pull through. If one comes loose, the load can shift and start ripping the rest of them out. Under the deck, I have steel bars supporting the ties downs from below. Instead of just a little wood, you have a large metal frame holding the load down. How do you plan to load the car if fit's dead? If you're racing and something breaks, how will you get it on the trailer? I've got a boat winch on a plate that lines up with the bed. Only a 3000 pound winch but it will pull a rolling load on okay.

On side guides, I guess if you want, you can. I've never seen a need on a properly secured load and you run the risk of puncturing a tire sidewall. How do you plan to get in and out of the car on the trailer? Regular utility trailers have the sides. These can make opening the door a problem. In that case, you have to roll the window down. What if it rains?

 

After I posted my previous missive, I looked around and found an address for a place I did business with in the past. I've gotten parts for small utility trailers as well as large 53 foot van trailers here.

https://thetrailerpartsoutlet.com/

Rather than replace the hubs when I wanted to get away from junkyard wheel with the 5 on 5 bolt pattern, I got two wheels and tires with that bolt pattern for about what I would have paid locally, but they weren't available locally.

One little tip for hooking up the trailer and also for driving the car onto the trailer. Drill a couple of holes and get some of the bright yellow driveway marker poles. You want one hole lined up with the hitch. I have a stripe painted on the tailgate of my main tow vehicle. I line that stripe up with the pole sticking up and get pretty close when hooking the trailer up alone. Just pull it out when you're hooked up. You can also place a pole to aim at when you drive on the trailer. With the car set like you want, drill a hole in line with the center of the steering wheel.