Hi People, new to forum, have a big problem, timing belt broke while driving my 94-B2300, w/150,000 here in Mass.No problem except truck has Calf. Emissions and changing of timing belt much more involed due to the need to use a tool called a "Synchronized Position Tool."Ford part # T93p12200-A trying to find out if I really need this tool in order to proceed with job. or if a nother tool could also be used in its place.please advise don't have money for dealers. Thank you for any help you may give, Bobby

 

You can always put #1 piston on TDC (top dead center) and make sure the valves for #1 cylinders are closed. It applies to all vehicles.

 

Thanks for the quick response Mr. udick. It seemed pretty straight forward to me at first. Disconnect the negative battery, remove the timing belt front cover, loosen the belt tensioner screw, remove the bolts holding the timing sensor in place and pull the sensor free of the dowl pin. This is where it started to get confusing. After reading through the Haynes & Chilton manuals it was brought to my attention that there are two different configurations out there. On the 93 & 94 Federal models (Federal being 49 states) it is not necessary to align the auxillary shaft sprocket. On 93 & 94 California models with manual transmissions you must install a Sinchronized Positioner (Ford tool #T93P12200-A) into the auxillary shaft sprocket and rotate the sprocket until the tool notch engages the notch in the Sinchronized bowl. On 94 and later models align the timing mark on the oil pump pulley with the pointer on the inner timing belt cover. Install the timing belt over the crankshaft sprocket etc. Align the belts fore and aft on the sprockets. Rotate the crankshaft two complete turns in the direction of normal rotation to remove the slack from the belt. Tighten the spring bolts. Install the crankshaft belt guide. Install the timing sensor into the timing pin and tighten the two longer bolts? Rotate the crankshaft 45 degrees counter clockwise and install the crankshaft pulley and hub. Rotate the crank shaft 90 degrees clockwise so the vane of the crankshaft pulley engages with timing sensor positioning tool or equivilant? Tighten the two shorter sensor bolts. Rotate the crankshaft 90 degrees counter clockwise and remove the sensor positioning tool. Rotate the crankshaft 90 degrees clockwise, and measure the outer vane to sensor air gap? The air gap must be 0.018-0.039 inches. Install the remaining components and re-connect the battery.

Some quick questions, what does the reference (outer vane to sensor air gap) mean, and what would be an equivilant to the Ford tool that I could use?
This is my first attempt at changing this belt and it is much more involved than I first thought. So any help you could give me with understanding the process or what part of the reference guide to use would be appreciated.
Thanks for all your help, Bobby

 

I'm not familiar with that exact year/engine, but it sounds from your description that it is just a tool to ensure the crank position sensor lines up with the appropriate position on the crank. I would think that some type of match-marking or keeping close track of locations could substitute for using the tool.

If you're new to changing timing belts in general, here are some tips:

First and foremost, if the belt broke while driving, you need to verify that it is not an interference engine, and therefore your valves were not destroyed in the millisecond that the engine continued to rotate after the belt had broken. If your valves are destroyed, this timing belt falls lower in your priority list. This happened to me in a Kia, found it was cheaper to swap out the motor than to replace all the destroyed valves.

The crucial part of timing belt replacement is lining up crank gear and cam gear(s) precisely. There will be marks on both of them that need to be aligned properly. The timing belt being off by a single tooth will result in drastically poor performance, if it will even run at all. The headache to install here is that the valve springs may try to sit the cam gear(s) just a little off where you need them to line up.

Usually the tensioner is a spring-loaded pulley that puts the right tension on the belt, then after the belt is set and you rotate the crank a couple rotations to ensure everything lines up, then tighten the bolts on the tensioner to keep it in that position.

Vane-to-sensor airgap is just how far away from the lobes or vanes on the crank pulley that the sensor is mounted. Too far away and the sensor will not pick up the signal, too close and you may have interference.

Hope this helps, sorry I can't speak to that exact engine.

Mark in MA

 

Another easy way to make sure everything lines up properly is to use a paint pen to mark the pulleys and sensors before removing them and the timing belt.

 

Thanks Guy's for the info, should be doing the belt this weeked,will get back to you about how it went. Meanwhile, waiting for that Ford position tool I ordered from dealer out here in Mass. hopefully they'll get in in this week.I'll let you know how it turned out.
bob.

 

Hello People, Well here's an update on my truck, doing the Timining Belt pretty straight foward, except for, I got the Ford Synchro Tool 303-453 to aline the Auxillary Shaft, don't see how it works with the Auxillary Shaft so unable to use.. need help there... had the cut off the Harmonic Balancer, from crankshaft would not come off... that was fun...I have alined the Camshaft and Crankshaft to there Timining Marks, Haynes repair book says the" Timining Mark for the Auxillary Shaft is on the,back Timining Belt Cover " There is no Mark there.. so not doing to good at this point. need big help.. and of course..its a Calf. Model, People around here, Mass. never heard of the need for this stuff. So is there anyone out there that this sounds familiar, or some one I can talk to about this please advise.. need the get truck back running for work.
Thanks for any help. Bobby