2007 driver's window in hot weather
#1
2007 driver's window in hot weather
Being new, I searched for threads on this first, and found none - I'm sure I missed it somewhere, but here goes:
My 2007 Mazda 3 5-door has been nothing but great since I got it, but I now find that in hot weather, my window won't go down. Once the weather is cooler in the evening, it works again. ALL the other windows work in any temperature, too. I suspect that my window getting so much more use has the fuse about to go. Can anyone tell me which fuse I need to replace, and where it's located? I pulled down that big thing of them under the glovebox, and I just don't have the time to pull out every single fuse (working full time & a full-time student).
Thank you for your patience with this forum rookie (My very first forum.)
2lucky
My 2007 Mazda 3 5-door has been nothing but great since I got it, but I now find that in hot weather, my window won't go down. Once the weather is cooler in the evening, it works again. ALL the other windows work in any temperature, too. I suspect that my window getting so much more use has the fuse about to go. Can anyone tell me which fuse I need to replace, and where it's located? I pulled down that big thing of them under the glovebox, and I just don't have the time to pull out every single fuse (working full time & a full-time student).
Thank you for your patience with this forum rookie (My very first forum.)
2lucky
#2
Mazda practice used to be to have a "fuse map" defining location, function, and rating molded into or stuck onto the cover the the fuse box.
You may find that you can get the applicator tube of a can of WD-40 into a crack somewhere near the door lock button or whatever and let the spray drizzle down and hopefully loosen up the actuator.
Also a trick worth trying which lightens the mechanical load is to use a silcone lubricant spray: squirt some onto a piece of plastic or metal, then soak it up with a Q-tip and use the Q-tip to apply the stuff sparingly to the window guides and the edges only of the window. Don't put any on the lower horizontal seals the window drops down through though.
Use just a small amount and keep it away from the "active glass area" because it smears and it takes ages to get it off.
This stuff is also good for dealing with sticking door seal gaskets whether they stick because of heat or from freezing.
You may find that you can get the applicator tube of a can of WD-40 into a crack somewhere near the door lock button or whatever and let the spray drizzle down and hopefully loosen up the actuator.
Also a trick worth trying which lightens the mechanical load is to use a silcone lubricant spray: squirt some onto a piece of plastic or metal, then soak it up with a Q-tip and use the Q-tip to apply the stuff sparingly to the window guides and the edges only of the window. Don't put any on the lower horizontal seals the window drops down through though.
Use just a small amount and keep it away from the "active glass area" because it smears and it takes ages to get it off.
This stuff is also good for dealing with sticking door seal gaskets whether they stick because of heat or from freezing.
#4
OK good luck. One more thing you could do along the lower horizontal seals is to try a bit of talc; it might not do much good, but it won't do any harm either, and there's no risk of stubborn smearing of the "active glass" area.
#5
I've had a problem with my windows sticking in cold weather. The gasket actually started to stay attached to the glass. But never enough to completely hold the window up.
And..yea it wouldnt be a fuse, with a fuse it either works or it don't. Not sometimes.
And..yea it wouldnt be a fuse, with a fuse it either works or it don't. Not sometimes.
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