You really can’t tell much by looking at the mount itself. Really, just knowing that vibration and resonance throughout the cab along with excessive engine movement upon applying a load to the engine followed by clunks felt when the engine rests back on the mounts are tell-tale signs of engine mounts in need of replacement.

In my experience, I could not physically tell the mounts were bad, but it became very apparent once attempting to install the replacement. Since the old mount is worn, it sags excessively under the weight of the engine. You will need to place a jack (with a piece of wood on top) under a solid part of the engine (I went across the sides/corner of the oil pan where the most support would be due) to not only support the weight when the mount is no longer connected, but also to raise the engine slightly, relieving stress on the mount, to remove the main cross bolt. It should become apparent just how worn/damaged the old mount had become once you compare the physical height of the old mount vs the new mount. The old mount in my case compressed enough that the new mount appeared to be nearly a full inch taller. To install this new uncompressed (taller) mount you will need to raise the engine higher still using the jack in order to allow the studs to protrude through the top bracket allowing you to thread the nuts and bolt that hold this bracket to the block. Raise the engine until you have the nuts and the bolt all the way threaded then install the center bolt for the mount itself and snug everything down. If nothing is binding then tighten everything down, lower the jack and start the engine. The resonance and vibration inside the vehicle should be greatly reduced if not gone all together.
Now, even though the vibration may be significantly less or totally gone you will still want to replace the remaining mounts as they will be just as shot due to the fact that as one fails the others become stressed more and therefore wear out themselves. There are 4 total so 3 remain. The remaining mounts will not show wear through compression such as the passenger side mount due to their design, but the excessive sagging will once again become apparent when replacing with a new mount. The mount under the center of the front bumper can be accessed once the plastic shroud (skidplate?) is removed. Then just support the engine with the jack again, slightly raise, remove the cross bolt, remove the two bolts holding the front of the long cross bracket it is seated in and it should drop down so you can remove the mount and install the new one (no need to remove the bolt holding the rear of the cross bracket). Again, you will have to raise the engine higher with the jack to install the new mount and bolt the bracket back to the frame. The driver’s side mount can be accessed from the top similar to the first mount. You will need to remove the air-box and the battery/battery tray. You will need to reposition your jack under the transmission for this one (same thing, just find a where the most support/strength would be), but it installs the same way…raise engine to relieve stress, remove existing mount, raise further to install new mount.

As for the 4th mount located just under the center of the firewall, I have not yet attempted due to access. I may farm this one out if a shop will perform the labor reasonably. If not, I will update on that one too.

After replacing these 3 the vehicle runs smooth with no vibration and only “clunks” every once in a while (not often) due to the 4th bracket not yet replaced. I used the cheaper aftermarket mounts so we shall see how long they last, but great so far.

PS…I didn’t mention much about the other mounting bolts as they are pretty straight forward, but with the first mount you will need to remove a bolt that holds the mounting bracket for two hard lines so you can move them back slightly in order to access one of the engine mount bolts you will have to remove.

 

Thanks,
Same problem with my 2005 Tribute. I plan on replacing the mounts after reading your thread. I thought I had a vacuum leak, But replaced some cracked lines to no avail. The smaller belt on the driver's side drives the water pump. There is no way to adjust the tention on this car, so it is easiest to cut the old belt off and roll the new on, while slightly turning the cam and crank.