i just bought the truck its an automatic and immedietly changed the coil cap rotor button plugs wires fuel filter pcv valve and 02 sensor. i also cleaned the intake completely because the egr port was gummed up also replaced egr valve and cleand the carb. still smokes stalls and check engine light is still on. WHAT COULD BE THE PROBLEM??

 

Common problems were converter damage (has 2 ), reed valve damage ( in the aircleaner) carb problems (air/fuel solonoid/ idle switch/ slow fuel cut valve/ float ), EGR being held open at idle (sucks air from #3 intake runner), A partially clogged converter will dump oil into the air cleaner/intake. You can create an exhaust leak before the converter to see if it straightens it out.

 

i know the rear cat is hollow but i had a feeling the problem was in the exhaust and now that you said something there was a oily messin the intake and air cleaner the egr valve is good idle swith is good i dont know were the reed valve is i cant figure out how to adjust the float.carb problems (air/fuel solonoid// slow fuel cut valve i have no idea there location and i dont know if my vaccums are in the right place so if you could tell me these locations maybe a vaccum diagram i would be greatful. and also do es it sound like the motor is shot or just needs some parts replaced

 

The reed valves are in housings on the side of the aircleaner held on by phillips screws. The air/fuel solonoid goes straight down the top of the carb. The slow fuel cut solonoid is on the back side of the carb nearest the firewall and just screws off. The carb is not too difficult to overhaul. There is a tamperpin at the bottom of the carb that protects the mixture adjust screw. Removal of the carb is recommended to remove it. Float level is easy to adjust and specs should be in the kit. I do not have a vacuum diagram but i am sure there is one on the internet. Try Autozone. It is possible it has ring damage but i doubt it. A clogged converter will cause excessive crankcase pressures so i would chase that down before i condemned the engine.

 

are the reed vavles in that bulky silver box on the outside of the air cleaner? how do you adjust the float i have a haynes book but it only tells you how to check the float level

 

Bend the metal tab on the float til you get the open/close spec you want. Yes the big aluminum piece on the aircleaner houses the reed valves.

 

thanx i put a diff carb on it now it no long stalls i got a carb kit to rebuild the original it still smokes but i will figure it out later the first cat is ryght off the manifold correct

 

Yes it is a machined surface to the manifold and uses a metal gasket. Do not remove the converter from the manifold if you can help it as it will not reseal because it cracks. Remove the lower pipe and poke it out from underneath. Remove the o2 sensor first and you can look inside for damage.

 

first off how many miles does it have. it almost sound like u have a bad problem with rings and mabey valve guides.

 

it has just under 126,000 and in another post i had the 307 is a chevy and i was only going to use it because i have it laying around but from my understanding i can have it rebuilt for much less than the mazda motor