Oil change for CX-5
#61
10-11-2014, 04:00 AM
Depending on where in the world you are & the spec level of your vehicle, some do!
The diesel versions have a oil monitor built into the ecu. You can't check it but it will tell you if the oil goes bad, plus it must be reset at every oil change.
The diesel versions have a oil monitor built into the ecu. You can't check it but it will tell you if the oil goes bad, plus it must be reset at every oil change.
Last edited by grim_reaper; 10-12-2014 at 03:15 AM.
#62
10-11-2014, 06:29 AM
Type A gets Maintenance Monitor
It appears from the owner's guide, that if you have a Type-A instrument panel, then you have "Maintenance Monitor", but, Type-B does not. Guess which I have, yep, Type-B :-/
#63
10-12-2014, 11:50 AM
Just changed mine yesterday. 2014 cx5 Touring. Remove 2 bolts on plastic panel. You do not need to remove rivet. Simply rotate panel out of the way and the drain bolt (you'll need an Allen wrench) and filter are right there.
I bought my Castrol 0w-20 on Amazon prime and saved $1.50 a quart and then, while I was under the car, kicked over an open bottle. I noticed it when I felt it seeping into my pants. What a pin head!!! So much for the savings.
I bought my Castrol 0w-20 on Amazon prime and saved $1.50 a quart and then, while I was under the car, kicked over an open bottle. I noticed it when I felt it seeping into my pants. What a pin head!!! So much for the savings.
#64
11-21-2014, 08:29 PM
Oil & Filter Change Mazda CX-5 (2013-2014) - 2013 Mazda CX-5 Sport 2.0L 4 Cyl.
This website is great for all the DIY for the Mazda or other vehicles you need.For cheaper oil I just went to Advance Auto Parts and got 5 fully synthetic Castrol oil and a filter for $35.You can also purchase an OEM pack from ebay which includes the oil filter,air filter,cabin air filter,and crush washer for $50.In the long run you are saving a lot of money because the air filter alone at the Mazda dealership costs about $35 and the cabin air filter at the dealership is about $20.
Mazda 2013 2015 CX 5 Service Kit Maintenance Package Oil Air Cabin Filters | eBay
This is the ebay link^^^
This website is great for all the DIY for the Mazda or other vehicles you need.For cheaper oil I just went to Advance Auto Parts and got 5 fully synthetic Castrol oil and a filter for $35.You can also purchase an OEM pack from ebay which includes the oil filter,air filter,cabin air filter,and crush washer for $50.In the long run you are saving a lot of money because the air filter alone at the Mazda dealership costs about $35 and the cabin air filter at the dealership is about $20.
Mazda 2013 2015 CX 5 Service Kit Maintenance Package Oil Air Cabin Filters | eBay
This is the ebay link^^^
#65
12-17-2014, 03:18 AM
Going to do mine for the first time myself. Dealer gave me a couple of freebies. My dealerships uses Valvoline 0W20, which is readily available at Walmart for $25 a gal so I am going with that. Figure on picking up Filter and washer at dealer.
My question is what is MOA (Motor Oil Additive)? Is it necessary? My dealer always adds it, cost about $11. Seems odd for brand new engine to use it.
My question is what is MOA (Motor Oil Additive)? Is it necessary? My dealer always adds it, cost about $11. Seems odd for brand new engine to use it.
#69
12-20-2014, 03:27 AM
Practically all additives are bull****. The only time you should ever consider them is when you actually have a serious problem or you are storing your vehicle(for example, fuel stabilizer.)
The additive packages in gasoline and motor oil are substantially higher tech and more robust than Joe Bob can put in a bottle and charge you $10 for at Auto Zone. Even Royal Purple, Redline and other legitimate companies are selling senseless crap with their label on it.
When I was in school we did some fun statistical stuff in shop when I was going for my ASE. One of them was leak repair. As the school shop was paid for by the public (community college) it was only fair for us to repair peoples cars, often students and teachers, only charging them for parts.
One semester we had a signup sheet on the bulletin board for people with leaks. We got like 50 cars signed up that semester, and it was pretty overwhelming, especially since most of them were oil leaks which are the most complex kind of leak to repair.
A study was conducted on vehicles with minor leaks over a one month period for each stage. The first stage was to try "stop leak additives" in the leaking system and the second stage was to flush and refill the fluid for that system. The final stage was to repair the leak mechanically.
Not a single vehicle of all 50 responded to stop leak additives. Transmission, power steering, oil, coolant, differential, you name it. We used a bunch of different brands (Bars Leak, Lucas, etc) but nothing extremely expensive (like Slick 50)
Almost HALF the vehicles responded to a full system flush and fill. This indicated two things: the fluid in the system could not be repaired/restored with an additive package, and the additive packages in the fresh fluids were likely superior to the "stop leak" packages.
It was amazing to see oil leaks could be slowed down or stopped completely with 1 or 2 oil changes of Pennzoil opposed to stop leak additives that cost just as much, if not more.
I remember not a single case was a coolant leak repaired with a stop leak product. The same for power steering. The problem with treating both of these systems is they are under a lot of pressure at very high temperatures, and no additives or fresh fluids can fix the most common cause of leaks: O-rings and hoses.
Basically just buy good oil and change it every 5000 miles, and never sooner. Never buy a car where someone says they change their oil every 3000 miles or sooner. Modern oil after SJ API doesn't even release its final additive package until ~3,000 miles. This means metal isn't getting all the stages of treatment it needs to last hundreds of thousands of miles.
Even though Skyactive engines are Synthetic, the reason Mazda specifies 5000-7500 miles intervals (with a heavy lean toward 5000) is because the capacity is about 4.5 quarts including the filter. Oil change intervals aren't so much based on the fluid quality as they are the capacity. A 90's Mercedes E-class runs 8 quarts of traditional (non-synthetic) oil at 10,000 miles intervals. Many large oil capacity engines recommend 12,500 and 15,000 intervals, all without synthetic oil. It isn't exclusively based on the capacity, but more so than the type of oil itself.
The synthetic oil in Skyactive doesn't necessarily equal extended oil change intervals. Mazda's decision to use synthetic oil has more to do with increased efficiency and performance, both of which synthetic oils deliver over traditional oils.
Mazda high moly is a great oil. If you're already shopping for oils in that price range, it's the only one to consider. Royal Purple and AMSoil are fine products but they are race-proven on the strip, Nascar, etc. Mazda Moly is race proven at LeMans. Huge difference. Mobil 1 is a great low-price alternative to Mazda Moly at around half the price.
Since no vehicles built with Skyactive are performance vehicles (so far) I don't think high moly is necessary is necessary in these engines. Moly is for extended wear protection and chances are the additives wont even release in a daily driver or grocery getter. Remember, Mazda started pushing this oil with rotary engines (high RPM applications) and the Miata guys love it for track day. This is probably why Mazda just uses Castrol Syntec or whatever OEM they're using for Skyactive oil changes. The Mazda dealer I purchased from uses Pennzoil and another I heard uses Quaker State. The dealers are allowed to use whatever bulk provider they want as long as it meets the API and weight Mazda recommends.
My last word of advice is to never, ever buy semi-synthetic oils. This marketing should be illegal because not a single manufacturer indicates the percentage of synthetic ester in these products. As far as I'm concerned they're selling you a product priced just below synthetic that is probably ~5% "synthetic".
The additive packages in gasoline and motor oil are substantially higher tech and more robust than Joe Bob can put in a bottle and charge you $10 for at Auto Zone. Even Royal Purple, Redline and other legitimate companies are selling senseless crap with their label on it.
When I was in school we did some fun statistical stuff in shop when I was going for my ASE. One of them was leak repair. As the school shop was paid for by the public (community college) it was only fair for us to repair peoples cars, often students and teachers, only charging them for parts.
One semester we had a signup sheet on the bulletin board for people with leaks. We got like 50 cars signed up that semester, and it was pretty overwhelming, especially since most of them were oil leaks which are the most complex kind of leak to repair.
A study was conducted on vehicles with minor leaks over a one month period for each stage. The first stage was to try "stop leak additives" in the leaking system and the second stage was to flush and refill the fluid for that system. The final stage was to repair the leak mechanically.
Not a single vehicle of all 50 responded to stop leak additives. Transmission, power steering, oil, coolant, differential, you name it. We used a bunch of different brands (Bars Leak, Lucas, etc) but nothing extremely expensive (like Slick 50)
Almost HALF the vehicles responded to a full system flush and fill. This indicated two things: the fluid in the system could not be repaired/restored with an additive package, and the additive packages in the fresh fluids were likely superior to the "stop leak" packages.
It was amazing to see oil leaks could be slowed down or stopped completely with 1 or 2 oil changes of Pennzoil opposed to stop leak additives that cost just as much, if not more.
I remember not a single case was a coolant leak repaired with a stop leak product. The same for power steering. The problem with treating both of these systems is they are under a lot of pressure at very high temperatures, and no additives or fresh fluids can fix the most common cause of leaks: O-rings and hoses.
Basically just buy good oil and change it every 5000 miles, and never sooner. Never buy a car where someone says they change their oil every 3000 miles or sooner. Modern oil after SJ API doesn't even release its final additive package until ~3,000 miles. This means metal isn't getting all the stages of treatment it needs to last hundreds of thousands of miles.
Even though Skyactive engines are Synthetic, the reason Mazda specifies 5000-7500 miles intervals (with a heavy lean toward 5000) is because the capacity is about 4.5 quarts including the filter. Oil change intervals aren't so much based on the fluid quality as they are the capacity. A 90's Mercedes E-class runs 8 quarts of traditional (non-synthetic) oil at 10,000 miles intervals. Many large oil capacity engines recommend 12,500 and 15,000 intervals, all without synthetic oil. It isn't exclusively based on the capacity, but more so than the type of oil itself.
The synthetic oil in Skyactive doesn't necessarily equal extended oil change intervals. Mazda's decision to use synthetic oil has more to do with increased efficiency and performance, both of which synthetic oils deliver over traditional oils.
Mazda high moly is a great oil. If you're already shopping for oils in that price range, it's the only one to consider. Royal Purple and AMSoil are fine products but they are race-proven on the strip, Nascar, etc. Mazda Moly is race proven at LeMans. Huge difference. Mobil 1 is a great low-price alternative to Mazda Moly at around half the price.
Since no vehicles built with Skyactive are performance vehicles (so far) I don't think high moly is necessary is necessary in these engines. Moly is for extended wear protection and chances are the additives wont even release in a daily driver or grocery getter. Remember, Mazda started pushing this oil with rotary engines (high RPM applications) and the Miata guys love it for track day. This is probably why Mazda just uses Castrol Syntec or whatever OEM they're using for Skyactive oil changes. The Mazda dealer I purchased from uses Pennzoil and another I heard uses Quaker State. The dealers are allowed to use whatever bulk provider they want as long as it meets the API and weight Mazda recommends.
My last word of advice is to never, ever buy semi-synthetic oils. This marketing should be illegal because not a single manufacturer indicates the percentage of synthetic ester in these products. As far as I'm concerned they're selling you a product priced just below synthetic that is probably ~5% "synthetic".
#70
12-21-2014, 02:04 AM
Timmmay, Thanks for a very interesting post. I have decided for the first time to go to 6K intervals, always did 5k before. My reasoning is that 95% of my driving is at cruising (65-75 seeds with very little city driving.
One comment on semi synthetic oil. I have a 20 year old 911 and based on scientific (for real)research I use Brad Penn semi synthetic racing oil. A group in Ohio did extenive analysis and for the air cooled engines that was one of three that was reccomended.
One comment on semi synthetic oil. I have a 20 year old 911 and based on scientific (for real)research I use Brad Penn semi synthetic racing oil. A group in Ohio did extenive analysis and for the air cooled engines that was one of three that was reccomended.