4mm would be great. 2mm would be good. 1mm and you should just use plywood. 😁

No really, Thanks buddy!

 

 

There are pictures but my account seems to be censored since yesterday or something change in my setting that I am unaware of?

 

I see 3 pics as of now.
I will run the numbers again next break that I get. 😉

 

Ya there is a weird delay on my end. It must be the internet or the windows upgrade? I contacted IB to ask them cuz I don't have administrative access to this forum.
I wouldn't spend so much time on exact numbers only because they are constantly influenced. IMHO -10F degree less is something and every little bit of something helps?
I actually engineered and developed an alternative to a Turbocharger/Supercharger intercooler (model & platform specific) that works more efficient. Even applied for a PAT.. But because it only lowered any old school intercooler by min. 20 F the test market for my part was negatively viewed as to costly. LOL That project for production was canceled.

 

Niche test market or gen pop? 🤔
A lot of people fighting detonation would be intrigued, for sure.
Also, were you aiming for an aftermarket market or a brand offered upgrade market? Just curious...

 

I am leaning toward a 4mm spacer for the idle air control valve (coolant fed) and maybe some thin spacers under the heads of the fasteners for insulation. That is the only exterior heating point left.

I also plan to wrap the underhood fuel filter and fuel rail, possibly the underhood return line too. I am stepping up in gph slightly with a fuel pump upgrade. I do not want to over circulate the fuel into being heated from underhood temps. Trivial, I know... but as you said 10* is a measurable improvement.

 

I have a marketer I don't use my name on any of my parts learned that decades ago. Honestly I cant even mention which companies offer and even manufacture my parts and have since about 1980

As for wrapping you would get better results to include build a *live fuel rail system in stead of a dead head?

* don't know didn't look what type of fuel system your project has. Most all Mazda's from Skyactiv forward engine are dead head fuel systems. That was one thing I have already built when my complete warranty has expired. It hard to hide that mod.

 

It is flow through, regulator opposite of fuel line, return is plumbed off regulator. It is that little '93 red honda civic. Not worth the time, except the wife loves it. 😉

Haven't tried to drill that manifold to head flange that got j.b. weld filled, because of misalignment.
Ordered a drill block to hopefully help keep me centered. I got the cheap drill holder/press, but was looking for some extra insurance. My mark is m10, most of the cheap drill blocks end @ 9.5 but the standard block went to 3/8. Looks like this...


I am plenty confident utilizing both of these items, together.

The plan is to wrap the plenum in plastic sheeting. Drop it plenum side down, flange end up, into a box and surround it with some of that expanding foam spray insulation. That will be the easiest way that I see to support it while I drill from the flange downward. Using the portable holder/press clamped to the flange and drill block. 😁

 

Well, you got me excited for that expiration date! 😁 So when is that date... 🤔 You totally should pump it up before hand...

I basically ignore warranties. No one will do it. (As good as I will do it.) It bit me with my 2020 Chev Blazer AWD 3.6L... cam carrier leakage on both banks. Resulted in an engine swap by my hands and pocket. 😬 Found a new but previously installed, 6 miles showing, engine. (New failed assembly for air bag fault.)

Seems everything that I let someone else touch receives a re-visit by me. 😒

Also curious as to what are your thoughts on this statement: "Your average school gymnasium holds 50 to 60 tons of air." 🤔