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Pre-Cats Now Available for 3.0 ltr

  #1  
Old 11-18-2012, 12:24 PM
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Talking Pre-Cats Now Available for 3.0 ltr

Also available for all Mazdas. Pre-cats with exhaust manifolds are 1 unit together. To search for your Mazda click beside info below.

INFO: Magnaflow has Catalytic Converters with Exhaust Manifolds



INFO: Magnaflow has Catalytic Converters with Exhaust Manifolds
 

Last edited by UseYourNoggin; 12-13-2014 at 08:12 PM.
  #2  
Old 02-12-2014, 07:55 AM
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First you should try putting a cleaner in first before buying a cat and save lots of money.

How to check your Catalytic Converter:


Causes Of Converter Failures:

Fouling, clogging, melt-down and breakage of the ceramic substrate inside a converter are common conditions that can cause problems. Plugging is usually the end result of a melt-down, which occurs because the converter gets too hot. This happens because the engine is dumping unburned fuel into the exhaust. The excess fuel lights off inside the converter and sends temperatures soaring. If it gets hot enough, the ceramic substrate that carries the catalyst melts.

The unburned fuel may be getting into the exhaust because of a bad spark plug or valve, but an overly rich air/fuel mixture is another possibility. In older carbureted engines, a heavy or misadjusted carburetor float may be the underlying cause. But on newer engines with "feedback" carburetion or electronic fuel injection, the engine may not be going into "closed loop" (the normal mode where the computer regulates the air/fuel mixture to minimize emissions).

A bad oxygen sensor or coolant sensor may be giving the computer bogus information. A sluggish or dead O2 sensor will make the computer think the exhaust is running lean, so the computer will try to compensate by making the fuel mixture rich. A coolant sensor that always indicates a cold engine will also keep the system in open loop, which means a steady diet of excess fuel. But it might not be the sensor's fault. A thermostat that's stuck open or is too cold for the application can prevent the engine from reaching its normal operating temperature. So if your converter has failed and needs to be replaced, the engine should be diagnosed for any underlying problems before the new converter is installed.

Another cause of converter clogging and contamination is excessive oil consumption. Worn valve guides or seals can allow oil to be sucked into the engine's combustion chambers. The same goes for worn or damaged rings or cylinders. Oil can form a great deal of carbon, and metals present in the oil can contaminate the catalyst. A compression check or leak-down test will tell you if the rings are leaking, while a fluttering vacuum gauge needle will help you identify worn valve guides.

Try cleaning your catalytic first before replacing!


Thought i'd post this interesting but good comment i came across about catalytic converter cleaners:
"To the people complaining it didn't work and giving it one star. Most of you are clearly don't understand what this product is for. If you have a 1 year old catalytic converter in your car, then something is wrong with your engine management or you are burning oil. If your engine is burning oil, or if the cat has lost the platinum, palladium, and rhodium that covers the ceramic honeycomb inside then this won't fix it. This only fixes dirty converters, if the catalyst is missing inside, it's not going to work. Also, if the light goes off and then comes back on, again, your car probably runs horribly and you don't even realize it. Catalytic converters don't generally fail on most vehicles unless something is wrong with your car, you're probably just trying to fix the symptom. So, if you clean the oil/carbon out of the converter, but your engine still runs like crap it's just going to get dirty again and not catalyze. This is a last ditch effort at not replacing the cat."

Don't like lacquer thinner, try these:



 
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