Add factory or aftermarket turbo kit?
Hello, I'm Justin first post here but not new to forums over all.
I have a 2017 Mazda6, 6 speed manual. I've been trying to look into what it would take to add a factory or aftermarket turbo system. Just for a little more power, not trying to race or anything lol. Talking to a guy in the parts department he said the motors are all the same and my motor would handle a turbo fine but I cant seem to find any information on it.
I bought the car in Utah, I'm currently in Korea for a year and the car is in storage. It will follow me to Germany next year so just looking g for info right now.
Thanks in advance.
I have a 2017 Mazda6, 6 speed manual. I've been trying to look into what it would take to add a factory or aftermarket turbo system. Just for a little more power, not trying to race or anything lol. Talking to a guy in the parts department he said the motors are all the same and my motor would handle a turbo fine but I cant seem to find any information on it.
I bought the car in Utah, I'm currently in Korea for a year and the car is in storage. It will follow me to Germany next year so just looking g for info right now.
Thanks in advance.
I'm not sure where they guy who told you the engines were the same got his information, but he couldn't be more wrong. There are numerous changes between the turbo engines and the normally aspirated engines, chief among them is compression ratio; the turbo engines have a 10:1 compression ratio, the normally aspirated engines here in North America have a 13:1 compression ratio. If you turbocharge an engine with a 13:1 compression ratio, you will most likely blow the engine up in short order.
Last edited by shipo; Mar 14, 2020 at 07:18 AM.
I'm not sure where they guy who told you the engines were the same got his information, but he couldn't be more wrong. There are numerous changes between the turbo engines and the normally aspirated engines, chief among them is compression ratio; the turbo engines have a 10:1 compression ratio, the normally aspirated engines here in North America have a 13:1 compression ratio. If you turbocharge an engine with a 13:1 compression ratio, you will most likely blow the engine up in short order.
The ECU compensates and makes adjustment in the compression ratio of the engine but with limitations. This is why you can use almost any octane fuel respectively gasoline. Although I have been testing with successes the introduction of LPG with no DTC or bad side effects I would still recomend to keep your engine mods to the most available fuel and octane your can get with all the places intended to be driving.
Regarding a Turbo Charger to a NA factory engine. The rule of thumb is not to exceed on a stock engine 30% increase in measurable output. Evaluating some ECU factory tables IMHO without a better available full accuses ECU calibration tool to be able to adjust any and all such tables (not ovt ) I would not recomend a full Turbo Charger installation that can produce +10lbs of boost on a factory NA with no EFI/ECU Performance Calibration adjustments. And these should be done with a trained and experienced individual. I do not recommend calibrating on a DIY level with a boosted engine Supercharged ,Turbocharged or NITROUS specifically!
There is some merit for simplified DIY Turbo installation for a rear Turbochrged system which limited to around 3-7psi boost? These are controversial regarding net results among some having actually done them? I have built two and just sorta went well ok and then installed a NITROUS system. LOL
Because you are moving to a country that you may not get the best support regarding any such engine performance upgrades you should reconsider NOT to do this sort of project to your MAZDA? I would look into more practical upgrades having to do with your suspension. Germany has some very nice roads for testing your driving skills...
Regarding a Turbo Charger to a NA factory engine. The rule of thumb is not to exceed on a stock engine 30% increase in measurable output. Evaluating some ECU factory tables IMHO without a better available full accuses ECU calibration tool to be able to adjust any and all such tables (not ovt ) I would not recomend a full Turbo Charger installation that can produce +10lbs of boost on a factory NA with no EFI/ECU Performance Calibration adjustments. And these should be done with a trained and experienced individual. I do not recommend calibrating on a DIY level with a boosted engine Supercharged ,Turbocharged or NITROUS specifically!
There is some merit for simplified DIY Turbo installation for a rear Turbochrged system which limited to around 3-7psi boost? These are controversial regarding net results among some having actually done them? I have built two and just sorta went well ok and then installed a NITROUS system. LOL
Because you are moving to a country that you may not get the best support regarding any such engine performance upgrades you should reconsider NOT to do this sort of project to your MAZDA? I would look into more practical upgrades having to do with your suspension. Germany has some very nice roads for testing your driving skills...

Thanks for the response, I do know there is more then just bolting a turbo on and calling it a day lol! I would make the upgrades to the ecu and fuel system as required. Just looking into it right now really. Would be nice to have a turbo, 6 speed manual Mazda6 lol. Since you can get one stock.
Yes, I know the German roads are nice, I was there a few years ago, did a lap of the nuremburg ring as well.
Yes, I know the German roads are nice, I was there a few years ago, did a lap of the nuremburg ring as well.
Once again, I do not know where you are getting your information, but as far as I can recall, the only 2017 Mazda with a 2.5 liter Turbo was the CX-9, and it had 10:1 compression ration. If you put a turbocharger on a normally aspirated 2.5 liter engine with a 13:1 compression ratio, you will blow that sucker up; simple fact of life.
I can see we have forgotten and maybe some members may not have played around with performance building engines with and adding a Turbochargers or an engine like we might be talking about with *VVT.
* basically this is in a nut shell:
variable valve timing mechanism. Through this technology, the combustion temperature can be lowered when the intake valve is closed before reaching the bottom dead center to reduce the effective compression ratio.
Oh and how about them "Yankee's " ops.... I mean **wastegates..
lol
**The primary function of the wastegate is to regulate the maximum boost pressure in turbocharger systems, to protect the engine and the turbocharger.
This is the 20's so lets get up with Technology i.e. Engine Management Controls = static compression ratio isn't everything as it was once in the late 70" 80's,90's .
However even shippo will agree that installing any parts that will increase the total effective compression should be carefully considered.
* basically this is in a nut shell:
variable valve timing mechanism. Through this technology, the combustion temperature can be lowered when the intake valve is closed before reaching the bottom dead center to reduce the effective compression ratio.
Oh and how about them "Yankee's " ops.... I mean **wastegates..
lol**The primary function of the wastegate is to regulate the maximum boost pressure in turbocharger systems, to protect the engine and the turbocharger.
This is the 20's so lets get up with Technology i.e. Engine Management Controls = static compression ratio isn't everything as it was once in the late 70" 80's,90's .
However even shippo will agree that installing any parts that will increase the total effective compression should be carefully considered.
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