RE: Mazda 5 Turbo failure (DPF warning light)
 

Sounds like a clogged oil sump (carbon deposits)which starves oil from the turbo... which fails.

RE: Mazda 5 Turbo failure (DPF warning light)
 

It could be. Although I do hope they did check the oil supply before fitting a new turbo. Turbos fail for a reason so it's vital to check oil supply and cooling, if fitted. You must also replace the oil and filter to ensure a clean oil supply.

RE: Mazda 5 Turbo failure (DPF warning light)
 

You could well be right. I spoke to the dealer today, the Mazda tech dept have advised them to"strip down the sump" to look for exactly that. The car was towed into them a week ago and only now have they decided what to do......but they can't tell me when they'll actually do it as their workshop is booked up.

Is this standard from a Mazda service perspective, I was under the impression that Mazda had a good reputation for both reliability and customer service levels?

RE: Mazda 5 Turbo failure (DPF warning light)
 

Hi,

I have owned a Mazda 5 Diesel sport from new. My engine failed at 25000 miles in July 07. There was a loud knocking noise. The wholeengine was replaced ... without a clear explanation of the defect.
Last week @ 39000 miles my engine failed while driving @ 70 MpH.... smoke outside and inside the car... Engine severely damaged... I was informed that it a problem with the turbo. They are stripping the engine down and taking photographs to identify the problem. Mazda is looking at the problem now..

The tech told me that there was NO oil in the engine. At the placewhere this happened there was a lage oil slick ( actually more of a pool).The last time I checkedoil was 8 days before the event.

My question is whether these failures could be a problem with something outside the engine? Should I be asking more questions?

Thanks for any input.

RE: Mazda 5 Turbo failure (DPF warning light)
 

It really depends on what has caused the fault. If, for instance, you picked up a stone in the oil cooler which puntured the cooler you'd have lots of oil and smoke before the engine ran out of oil and went bang. There'd be lots of oil everywhere and certainly a pool of oil under the car when you stopped. Another possibility is the bearings or seals have failed in the turbo causing engine oil to be pumped into the inlet, which the engine will quite happily run on, until the oil runs out and the engine goes bang. Again a pool of oil and lots of smoke.
Sump plug may have come out. Oil filter may have come undone. Another oil pipe may have failed. Head gasket. There's a loads more things which could cause the fault.
Did the oil pressure light come on before the failure? Was the engine running OK right up to the failure? Any coolant loss?
Generally turbos fail due to oil starvation, so you need to find out why.

RE: Mazda 5 Turbo failure (DPF warning light)
 

Thank you

Engine was running fine upto that point. There was no warning lights before the failure. Most of the lights were lit when the car stopped!. They will probably let me know today about the repair plans.

Regards

I have had the same problem - Dec 2011
 

I have had exactly the same problem - slight bang as I pulled away followed by lots of grey (not black) smoke, then the failure of the engine.

After being towed back from Ireland to Surrey, the garage does not seem to know what the problem is, i.e whether they need to regenerate the DPF, the injectors, or a new engine!!

I wonder whether you resolved your problem and whether you got to the bottom of what caused it and can suggest what my garage has to do to put it right?

Hello. I live in the south of Denmark, so sorry my english. We have the same car and same problem. Mazda 5/143/diesel/2006. New Turbo, particle filter and al lot of other parts. We payed more than 1/5 of total new price of the car and still Mazda will not pay a part of it. You are not alone with this problem. Just now I have problems again with the particle filter, so I believe everything is starting all over again. Mazda says they don´t know why it is happening, but several engine specialists have told me that this model always will have big problems, because the users drive with too low rews. And this fact destroy´s the turbo and particle filter after some time. The car has to use at least 2500 revs at all times, at least 3 specialists in race-driving have told me.
Sell the car as soon as you can....:-)

List of engine problems I´ve had with the car:
Loosing/leeking/using oil.
DPF totally ruined. Broken inside and detectors stuck because of overheating.
Turbo broken.
Tube from turbo to engine broken.
Diesel valves? leaking.

While driving engine lost power/turbo. A lot of noises and black/gray smoke. Shutting almost down. At least 3 alarm showing up. DPF was one of them. This has happened about 6 times now. Last time for about 1 hour ago, so now Mazda Germany will be involved again. They know about the problems, but Mazda Japan say´s no...I need some support from you all...
I think it will be necessary to go to one of the big German car newspapers...

Dear Regin
Many thanks for the reply. The diagnosis for my car was a seal having gone in one of the four injectors. This has now been replaced but the engine won't fire - the garage believes that the mixture of oil in the engine (with the diesel) has done serious damage. The garage is now obtaining quotes for a reconditioned Mazda 5 engine. I will be considering the cost of this and the likely price I could sell the car for if I get it running again versus the price I could get for someone to buy the car now as a non-runner. Per you advice, I am definitely going to sell the car. I will also be taking this up with Mazda and also with the Consumers Association (Which) here in the UK.

I had a problem like this in my diesel it turned out to be the crankshaft sensor was dirty. My car would rev to around 2500rpm and got worse after a wile it would loss power then when the revs dropped below 1000 it would start to go again if that’s what you are getting it’s the crankshaft sensor an easy fix it turned out and best to start there as it could also be the wiring to to sensor which is a bit more awkward to fix