2006 Mazda 5 1.8 Petrol. European spec. Dublin.

Hi, Ive been trying to locate the PCV on my 2006 Mazda 5 1.8 Petrol, and so have others, looking at various posts. So, I am in the middle of troubleshooting a burning oil problem at high revs, and want to pass on this info.

1. Valve stem seals changed (in situ). Took about three hours with an air compressor in each cylinder (about 50 psi) and a Blue point valve spring tool P/N GA318A. About €60 from a Snap-On van. Amazing tool, worth every penny, even though the seals were OK. No fix.
2. Changing PCV valve. Update to follow.

I cant attach the diagram with the location as I cannot reduce the size enough to attach, but, it is under the intake manifold, under the #3 inlet port. You will need to remove the intake manifold first. Give yourself plenty of time if it is your first go as it is very tricky to remove.

If you have a bit of time, you can find all the Workshop manuals online, make sure you choose the L8 Engine version if you have the 1.8 Petrol (also known as the Ford Duratec) fitted in the Mondeo, as well as others....therefore check with your local motor factor before going to Mazda to buy spares.....be warned....

If anybody else is having issues with oil burning and can offer any other suggestions before i change the Piston rings, it would be appreciated.

Cheers

Phil

 

Can't reduce pic to attach? Every computer has software for "cropping", "resizing".

 

Look on the valve covers. This thread is usless without pichers! Now thats funny right there.

 

The pcv valve is located behind the intake manifd on a cover attached to the block. You have to remove the intake manifold to get to it.

 

OK, so PCV valve didnt work, still bellowing oil smoke at high revs. Looks like the rings, meant to say, only got 120,000kms on the car, and had a fairly handy life, bit pissed that is burning oil already......
Bought a crankshaft pulley SST as listed in the Engine manual (manufactured by Laser tools) to remove the pulley bolt........waste of time.....fecking useless....so dont bother if your thinking about getting one.....a good heavy duty chain around the underside chasis and an allen key through one of the balance weights on the crankshaft (obviously I have the oil pan off), a foot extension steel tube on a 1/2 drive breaker bar, job done....

 

sorry, meant to ask.....does any body have any idea what is the best or approved sealent to use for re-fitting the timing chain cover and the oil pan. Thankks a mil