Using BlueDriver I obtained Code P0451 EVAP. It appears that the fix may be replacement of the evaporative hose assembly, part CG36-42-580A with FTP sensor and the short cord, part L5E1-18-791A. Has anyone here replaced the evaporative hose assembly? The link below shows the part.

One end is connected to the fuel tank. I assume there is no fuel that leaks out when this end is disconnected? How are these green clips removed? Looking for guidance/instruction on how to replace this assemble. Some detail on removing both ends and the attachment with skinny hose that runs from the FTP sensor.
Thank you!

https://www.carid.com/genuine/evapor...U4T-bH6LjQM5QM

 

That only is a starting point to diagnose the problem not the definitive answer.
Blue tooth scanning devices unless you completely understand and know how to access all the ECU information are a waste of most DIY money.
There are several areas that you left unchecked in the ECU or the blue tooth device you are using can't access them.
There are several testing procedures to first vary that part you "think" is the problem actually is.
Randomly changing parts can and often does create more problems than the original unresolved issue.
ECU Scanning devises are great if the user understand what they are reading and looking for. But then most would need a forum to ask basic automotive Diagnostic trouble shooting questions.
As far as the part question it is in your picture pull the purple lock clips. The other hose should be push down and it will release but I don't have that part in the shop to look specifically and the picture is not clear engine from the side pictured?

 

Thanks Callisto. Indeed, I'm going off what I read on another board and also what the BlueDriver app says is the most common solution. Trying to avoid spending $200 on a diagnostic check alone, which may end up getting more expensive :| Regardless, kind of enjoy the troubleshooting/learning and hopefully getting lucky. I've attached actual pictures from the car/part. One green end attaches to a canister, the other to the fuel tank. In the same image you can see the skinny hose and circular attachment.

 

There is no common solution to DTC. That is internet bad information If you actually looked at the DTC you would see there are at least 5 or more possible causes for it and each needs to be checked. Some can lead to other parts not even on the original DTC. But conditions causing anomalous feedback from sensors to the ECU can generate the closet DTC that is related or indirectly related to the issue causing the DTC.. By the looks of your pictures that part does not appear to have cracked or damaged.... and that all the surrounding dirt is all evenly spread. You should have also looked at the I/M monitors before starting the guessing?

BTW there is a reason why quality service shops that employee certified Auto Techs get an hour for Diagnostic work...it takes at least a week to prep for testing, and you must have 2 years shop experience before you can even test to get certified as a Automotive Diagnostic technician. and that certification is only good for 3 years and to keep it you need to retest.
The release tabs are inside the clamp housing. A DIY can carefully push them to clear the set tab using a small head screw driver