Was going to get the adjustable arms, but could not see spending $300+ for parts that I really did not need. As it played out, it worked out for the better anyway (will explain later).

So I asked around for some install instructions for the 3 because I figured the 3 and the 5 were the same. from the inst. I received, this is not the case, (suspension components are the same but the access is different).

The passenger side (right side) is pretty straight forward, there is no need to drop the sub-frame (or is it sub-assembly?). jack vehicle and lower onto jack stands under neath the lower control arms. (will post pics tomorrow). remove tire, and you will see the outboard bolt, it removes from forward of the spindle. To get to the inboard bolt, from underneath the vehicle, with a 10 inch extension you will be able to remove the bolt. (air tools are a plus!!) as far as replacing the arm, I went from inboard to outboard, although I'm not sure if there is any particular order. I think it was a bigger PITA installing than removing. After removing I resolved that the arm were still in good shape but replaced it anyway.

Now, the driver side. This was going to be a MAJOR PITA!!!! for one, I don't know of any power tool that will get the inboard bolt out, not even a ratchet, which means it will have to be a wrench, and that bolt is a long winded ****!!!! On top of that, the exhaust hanger bracket is in the way, and the muffler prevents you from seeing things clearly!! So as daylight was burning, I said ***** IT!! and was glad that I purchased the OEM arms and left the driver side alone. will have pics tomorrow of the ease, or not so ease of access. sorry for the long post...

 

needs some piccies mate - cant picture what you've changed (lower control arm alias wishbone?)

 

The upper rear control arms... a.k.a. camber links.

 

will have pics tomorrow,by noon, Feb 27, central standard time, U.S.A.

 

still coming with pics, had other stuff come up today and didn't get to it. will be soon

 

And on that front too.... I was up way past my bedtime last night trying to (unsuccessfully) get it to boot to the Internet and find my old files.
My desktop is back up and running!!! Had a little trouble w/the Internet connection and finding all my old files, but it's finally back.
I found the document you asked me for and will get it out to you ASAP. It won't be tonight, and may not be tomorrow either but I'll send it off when I get a chance... just too much to do, and besides, I feel like h*ll today.
Somethin's in the air.

 

glad to hear you're back up and running, not glad to hear you've got the bug that's going around. as I stated above, the 5 is set up a bit different than the 3, as far as the access to the rear control arms but the guide will be useful, I may have to drop the sub-frame to allow the inboard bolt on the driver's side (left side) to be removed. pics are coming please be patient...

 

so here are the pics for the ease (or not so ease) of access to the camber link bolts...


Passenger side (right side) looking inboard. As you can see it's pretty straight forward with nothing much in the way.

Passenger side (right side) looking from the rear of the vehicle at the inboard bolt. remove the black hose from the clamp and with a 10 inch extension you will be able to get to it with ease.

Driver side (left side) looking up from underneath the vehicle and in front of the muffler. as you can see the exhaust hanger bracket will keep you from backing the bolt out with a ratchet (pneumatic or manual). it may be possible to do this if you drop the sub-frame (sub assembly?) but this will have to involve taking loose the muffler to get it out of the way as well. easiest way would be a wrench and even that would be close quarters!!! the outboard is just as straight forward as the passenger side (right side).

 

I had to register so I could add to this. This picture says it all. The bolt is like 4 1/2" long (for no good reason) and there's just no way to work it around that exhaust hanger. I got it completely loose with a box-end wrench, got it past some of the rubber that was in the way, then hit metal. Still about an inch and a half to go. I dropped the subframe about half an inch so it clears the metal hanger but it's still getting hung up on the rubber bit, which I can't push off the hanger because I can't get any leverage up there.

I'm so angry at that bolt right now. On Monday I'm gonna buy a sawzall and cut it in half. I'll replace it with a shorter bolt.

Honestly, who does that? Shame on you Mazda.

 

you'll probably have to drop the sub frame about an inch or so to get the clearance you need. and as I suspected it might be easier to remove the muffler to gain ease of access but may be able to be done with it still in. I wouldn't recommend cutting any bolts as they are that length for a reason.