Brakes going out? Please help
#11
02-16-2012, 01:29 PM
alright here's the update. I verified that the hoses were indeed not expanding by having someone in the vehicle repeatedly press the pedal while i layed under it and observe. I checked every wheel. No ballooning, not even any movement. It's so strange, The brakes feel exactly the same as they did even before the replaced the master cylinder. Apparently that's not the problem, but if that's not it, I don't know what it could be. I'm kind of leaning towards mazdatirols idea about air in the abs system and purging it but I don't see how air would have gotten in, in the first place. With the vehicle off and pressing the brakes i hear a squeaking sound. I can't tell where it is coming from. It's defentely not inside the vehicle nor coming from under/around the wheels. Sounds like its around the master cylinder area. I just noticed this yesterday. I just threw that out there for anyone who might have encountered this before. I'll try the slamming on brakes thing this weekend.
#12
02-16-2012, 03:57 PM
Squeeking?!? I REALLY hope that what I am about to say is not true, on my old pickup I still own in the US (its an old '89 F250) my FIREWALL cracked where the clutch and master cylinder are due to the forces put on the firewall, it made a squeek each time shifting or braking and braking power felt low. I found the TSB for this online and repaired the firewall myself and that improved my braking alot, not to mention no more grinding gears. I really really hope its not this but just throwing it out there in case. Also check the nuts/bolts holding the master cylinder onto the firewall maybe its loose.........
#13
07-28-2012, 09:44 AM
Same issue here...
Replaced the master cylinder and front pads over this last week and improved "slightly," but now just take a couple of seconds less for the pedal to be at the floor. I also tried a few "panic stops" and still feels as if the brakes do not engage until the pedal's halfway down. Brakes were very "touchy" before...used to engage very quickly/unexpectedly.
Not happy w/the brake situation... keeps me edgy when driving and tho I try to keep more distance between cars now, it allows other cars to squeeze in front and really shorten my stopping distance. I don't trust the brake system very much right now.
We've only had these symptoms for a few months. How long have ya'll had it?
Ours is an '07 Sport/Auto, ~79K miles...
Not happy w/the brake situation... keeps me edgy when driving and tho I try to keep more distance between cars now, it allows other cars to squeeze in front and really shorten my stopping distance. I don't trust the brake system very much right now.
We've only had these symptoms for a few months. How long have ya'll had it?
Ours is an '07 Sport/Auto, ~79K miles...
#14
10-06-2012, 09:44 AM
My wife's 2006, auto sport is currently having brake issues as well.
I took her to get brake bleed but is still going on.
The person said may be master cylinder being bad.
There are no brake fluid leaks since the fluid hasn't dropped or shown any.
The hose does make sense but its a constant thing as well.
The brake works but you have to press it all the way down.
I do notice air or sound when pressing on the brake.
I am looking at master cylinder change.
If you changed yours, did you change the brake line/hoses too?
Just wondering because yours maybe is hose? but then again, you had no leaks...
I would still be weary about the MC.
I took her to get brake bleed but is still going on.
The person said may be master cylinder being bad.
There are no brake fluid leaks since the fluid hasn't dropped or shown any.
The hose does make sense but its a constant thing as well.
The brake works but you have to press it all the way down.
I do notice air or sound when pressing on the brake.
I am looking at master cylinder change.
If you changed yours, did you change the brake line/hoses too?
Just wondering because yours maybe is hose? but then again, you had no leaks...
I would still be weary about the MC.
#15
10-06-2012, 10:32 AM
The person said may be master cylinder being bad.
There are no brake fluid leaks since the fluid hasn't dropped or shown any.
The brake works but you have to press it all the way down.
I do notice air or sound when pressing on the brake.
I am looking at master cylinder change.
If you changed yours, did you change the brake line/hoses too?
Just wondering because yours maybe is hose? but then again, you had no leaks...
I would still be weary about the MC.
There are no brake fluid leaks since the fluid hasn't dropped or shown any.
The brake works but you have to press it all the way down.
I do notice air or sound when pressing on the brake.
I am looking at master cylinder change.
If you changed yours, did you change the brake line/hoses too?
Just wondering because yours maybe is hose? but then again, you had no leaks...
I would still be weary about the MC.
Have you ever had your brakes properly serviced?
References: Troubleshooting Brake Problems - Fixing a Brake Problem - Brake Problem Diagnosis
On older drum brakes, a low brake pedal can sometimes develop if the self-adjusting mechanism is corroded and sticking. If your car has older drum brakes (many low-end cars still have rear drum brakes) try backing up quickly and braking firmly. This action might loosen up the self-adjusting mechanism and fix the problem.
If the fluid reservoir is full and the brakes are properly adjusted, but the pedal is low (or feels spongy), there is probably air in the brake lines. Air is compressible, so every time you step on the pedal, the bubbles collapse instead of transferring pressure to the brakes. The cure here is to bleed the brake lines following the factory recommended sequence.
Brakes are usually bled in a specified sequence (always refer to a shop manual for the exact procedure for your vehicle). Usually the rear brakes are bled first, then the ones up front on most rear-wheel drive cars and trucks. But on front-wheel drive cars and minivans, the hydraulic system is split diagonally so the brakes are bled in opposite pairs (right rear and left front, then left rear and right front). Following the proper sequence is important so air doesn't remain trapped in the lines.
FROM: My brake pedal is low when I step on it, but it... — Yahoo! Autos
You can find out all you need to know about the master cylinder by removing the lines, screwing brass or plastic plugs into the outlets, and then applying the brakes. If the pedal's high and hard now, the master has been properly bled and its seals are okay. The pedal would sink gradually if it were bypassing--that is, if fluid were finding its way around the sliding seals. You've also confirmed that the booster is okay. Reattach the lines.
Continue the process of elimination by clamping hoses to isolate each wheel. Use a suitable rounded-jaw tool, either the locking-pliers type or one of those inexpensive J-hooks with a knurled screw. Releasing one at a time should locate the problem.
Read more: http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...enance/1272501
Last edited by UseYourNoggin; 10-07-2012 at 08:26 PM.
#16
10-07-2012, 06:05 PM
I'm not sure how your set-up is on the Mazda 5, but on Mazda 6 it was a leak inside the vaccuum booster that caused this issue for me. The brakes would work most of the time, but once in a blue moon i had to really step on it. However, with my vaccuum leak it also threw a lean code for the engine.
Have you ever had your brakes properly serviced?
References: Troubleshooting Brake Problems - Fixing a Brake Problem - Brake Problem Diagnosis
On older drum brakes, a low brake pedal can sometimes develop if the self-adjusting mechanism is corroded and sticking. If your car has older drum brakes (many low-end cars still have rear drum brakes) try backing up quickly and braking firmly. This action might loosen up the self-adjusting mechanism and fix the problem.
If the fluid reservoir is full and the brakes are properly adjusted, but the pedal is low (or feels spongy), there is probably air in the brake lines. Air is compressible, so every time you step on the pedal, the bubbles collapse instead of transferring pressure to the brakes. The cure here is to bleed the brake lines following the factory recommended sequence.
Brakes are usually bled in a specified sequence (always refer to a shop manual for the exact procedure for your vehicle). Usually the rear brakes are bled first, then the ones up front on most rear-wheel drive cars and trucks. But on front-wheel drive cars and minivans, the hydraulic system is split diagonally so the brakes are bled in opposite pairs (right rear and left front, then left rear and right front). Following the proper sequence is important so air doesn't remain trapped in the lines.
FROM: My brake pedal is low when I step on it, but it... — Yahoo! Autos
You can find out all you need to know about the master cylinder by removing the lines, screwing brass or plastic plugs into the outlets, and then applying the brakes. If the pedal's high and hard now, the master has been properly bled and its seals are okay. The pedal would sink gradually if it were bypassing--that is, if fluid were finding its way around the sliding seals. You've also confirmed that the booster is okay. Reattach the lines.
Continue the process of elimination by clamping hoses to isolate each wheel. Use a suitable rounded-jaw tool, either the locking-pliers type or one of those inexpensive J-hooks with a knurled screw. Releasing one at a time should locate the problem.
Read more: Dealing With A Low Brake Pedal - Popular Mechanics
Have you ever had your brakes properly serviced?
References: Troubleshooting Brake Problems - Fixing a Brake Problem - Brake Problem Diagnosis
On older drum brakes, a low brake pedal can sometimes develop if the self-adjusting mechanism is corroded and sticking. If your car has older drum brakes (many low-end cars still have rear drum brakes) try backing up quickly and braking firmly. This action might loosen up the self-adjusting mechanism and fix the problem.
If the fluid reservoir is full and the brakes are properly adjusted, but the pedal is low (or feels spongy), there is probably air in the brake lines. Air is compressible, so every time you step on the pedal, the bubbles collapse instead of transferring pressure to the brakes. The cure here is to bleed the brake lines following the factory recommended sequence.
Brakes are usually bled in a specified sequence (always refer to a shop manual for the exact procedure for your vehicle). Usually the rear brakes are bled first, then the ones up front on most rear-wheel drive cars and trucks. But on front-wheel drive cars and minivans, the hydraulic system is split diagonally so the brakes are bled in opposite pairs (right rear and left front, then left rear and right front). Following the proper sequence is important so air doesn't remain trapped in the lines.
FROM: My brake pedal is low when I step on it, but it... — Yahoo! Autos
You can find out all you need to know about the master cylinder by removing the lines, screwing brass or plastic plugs into the outlets, and then applying the brakes. If the pedal's high and hard now, the master has been properly bled and its seals are okay. The pedal would sink gradually if it were bypassing--that is, if fluid were finding its way around the sliding seals. You've also confirmed that the booster is okay. Reattach the lines.
Continue the process of elimination by clamping hoses to isolate each wheel. Use a suitable rounded-jaw tool, either the locking-pliers type or one of those inexpensive J-hooks with a knurled screw. Releasing one at a time should locate the problem.
Read more: Dealing With A Low Brake Pedal - Popular Mechanics
Thank you for the follow up. However, I did not see any signs for brake fluid leak on the wheels or hoses. The reservoir is also in the lines it should be.
I also took it to a shop to have the brakes flushed and changed to get any contaminants and air bubbles out. Still same... The guy saw what I was talking about prior to flushing and new brake fluid. Since it is the same, he said to check the master cylinder.
I also know he did bleed the brakes using the BG brake flush kit since I was watching him do it and in the shop.
Its either a bad MC or vacuum booster, IMHO.
However, I wanted to be sure and ask if there are any checks I can do to pin point if its MC. In addition, it is Mazda 3, Auto, HB Sport edition.
Thank you!
#17
10-07-2012, 06:28 PM
I also wanted to ask for help or confirmation.
I am planning to get a new MC if need be and have been looking at this site.
06 2006 Mazda 3 Brake Master Cylinder - Brake - A1 Cardone, Beck Arnley, Centric, Dorman, PBR - PartsGeek
However, there are many versions.
I know it has ABS, but notice there are different bore sizes and model #.
Which would fit without having to pay the highest price?
Any suggestions, insight to get the correct one?
I plan to replace myself then have it bleed or flushed at a shop.
Thanks!
I am planning to get a new MC if need be and have been looking at this site.
06 2006 Mazda 3 Brake Master Cylinder - Brake - A1 Cardone, Beck Arnley, Centric, Dorman, PBR - PartsGeek
However, there are many versions.
I know it has ABS, but notice there are different bore sizes and model #.
Which would fit without having to pay the highest price?
Any suggestions, insight to get the correct one?
I plan to replace myself then have it bleed or flushed at a shop.
Thanks!
#18
10-07-2012, 08:37 PM
I'm a little confused. Your link is for a Mazda 3, don't you have a Mazda 5? This thread is for a Mazda 5! It's not nice to hijack a thread!
Try a new search!
Try a new search!
Last edited by UseYourNoggin; 10-07-2012 at 08:39 PM.
#19
10-08-2012, 12:43 PM
Even though my wife's is a Mazda 3... I would like you also know that it is because I USED the SEARCH, did I find this thread.
Your suggestion would be the same thing I did, but thanks anyways.
From your response also, I presume you know the Mazda 3 and 5's MC to be different. In that case, I apologize but if not... I don't see why the response could be friendlier rather then assuming I hyjacked this thread when I found this thread by using "Search" in the first place.
#20
10-08-2012, 01:16 PM
In a way you did kinda hijack the thread, hijacking is posting your problems on another persons thread to solve your own problem where the original poster receives no benefit from your post. The search function is there so you can FIND older threads with problems that resemble yours and use the suggestions in them to help with your problem so you dont have to post a new thread. Also posting in a "dead" thread, i.e. one that is older than a few months like this one is/was, is not the best idea either since information may have been updated since that time or the solutions offered did not work. It is always best to start your own thread (as you have done) in the proper place rather than dig up an old one because the problems were similar, what you can do though is copy the link to that thread you may have found during your search and put that in your post if you would like us to look there as well.