This video clip may help to explain the effect of moisture getting in along the splines.

 

The splines are for a press fit and engineer for applied torque as to not slip . If there is play in the splines then there is a high degree for breakage hence they are still consoled a press fit . Basic structural and or mechanical engineering . Your One amateur utube omg really? lol ..and is less the I would expect from you . Almost always if I need to post a tube it is for a service or something I did .
As for working on CV axles worked on dozen maybe hundreds and even more directly influencing performance axles

anyway it’s a DIY he will manage but hopefully not your unsafe way..

I thought the saying was with age comes wisdom but then I found with age means having to keep up on empirical facts and information and then to continue to practice them. Old school is good for basics but if you don’t stay learning by way of schooling and then testing practical application only gets you so far and then you get recognized as an old timer.

This thread is only about a minor problem anyway … lol. Re-read post #17 again 😉

 

Very interesting. I must be a threat to you in some way. Nver have I pressed a CV joint into the hub. Any yes I have done many. Perhaps you can find a clip or workshop manual reference that demonstrates your obviously limited knowledge.

 

press can mean a couple of things but I think you know that. Lol

no threat but you are not as experienced as I thought you were . You are good but no threat by any means

 

Time will tell my friend.

 

with any extreme engines that produces over say 500 Whp ( nice normally mentioned number ) and even more critical those engines capable of producing over 1000whp special axles should be highly considered by the owners of these vehicles producing those power levels and these axles must be specially made . Not to get into all the complete details of their material and other information except the spline and hubs are machined to be for maximum strength for a press in the axle as a unit.

As for a stock vehicle if it ain’t a tight fit and needing a little nurturing to press them together hub to axle then they are likely to have a shorter then average life span and may have trouble to be serviced like the issues stated in the first response .

 

Honestly I fail to see any logic here. They are not a press fit into the hub but actually have clearance and slide in when replacing them. The tightening torque on the end nut provides sufficient clamping force to eliminate movement just like torquing a wheel nut as you would well know it's the clamping force not the stud that drives the wheel. If your theory is correct why is it then acceptabe to have a simple much smaller sliding fit on the inner joint? Makes no sense to me. YES big power is another consideration with specially manufactured parts. Thats the name of the game but were talking a std street car with what 160hp at a guess. Looking at the first pic clearly says to me there has been water getting in and yes sorry to say my asumption is it's travelled thru the salt belt. by applying heat to the end of the stub axle the heat will causes it to expand crushing the rust to dust so to speak. once cooled down it will easily slide apart. We'll see in the end.

 

First you question and then if I mention the word PERFOMANCE you change your info. LOL

At this point this thread is a simple R&R and the op will get it solved but I am sure not with acid! LOL

 

And another note, I'm also having trouble removing the rest of the broken CV axle from the carrier bearing/ intermediate shaft. Any advice for getting that out. Have been reading on the Mazda 6 forum since they have a similar design. They're saying with all the banging and pulling I've been doing I may need to replace the carrier bearing.

I can't even seem to locate one for sale online. I don't have a vise, so removing the rest of it from the vehicle doesn't seem to make any sense for me. I'm assuming it's stuck on the snap ring, and I've tried to go back and forth with it. Hit it a couple times with a sledge, but it's not budging

 

I'm also still had no luck getting the axle out of the hub. Ended up purchasing a used steering knuckle, since I destroyed my brake dust shield anyway.

In regards to the used knuckle, do I need to change out the wheel bearing, is there an easy way to check the bearing on this new hub? obviously without driving it. Changing the CV boot has turned into a nightmare of a job on this car! Getting a knuckle from California, so hopefully there won't be any rust to contend with lol.