What's your choice for OEM Equivalent rotors and pads?
I've had very good success with NAPA "Premium" and even NAPA "mid-range" on several different vehicles. in Canada. "Premium" does not necessarily mean "performance", just NAPA's top end.
NAPA usually offer 3 levels: economy, mid-range and premium.
Economy is noticeably low end and do not last long at all, corrode quickly. Fine to get an unwanted vehicle ready for sale.
Mid-range and premium are very close in quality with premium having an extra layer of coating extending the life. In my area, the price is so close I always go with premium. I often get 50-60K kms = 32-38K miles depending on driving conditions and style etc. Good parts, good value.
NAPA usually offer 3 levels: economy, mid-range and premium.
Economy is noticeably low end and do not last long at all, corrode quickly. Fine to get an unwanted vehicle ready for sale.
Mid-range and premium are very close in quality with premium having an extra layer of coating extending the life. In my area, the price is so close I always go with premium. I often get 50-60K kms = 32-38K miles depending on driving conditions and style etc. Good parts, good value.
Last edited by Rodster; Aug 4, 2025 at 09:31 AM.
It depends on the country you live in
It also depends on what you want in braking performance. There is a balance between improved braking performance , brake dust and long longevity.
I suppose you could and should even include the warranty and who will be installing them/
Shops warranty for labor warranty is different from the parts warranty and if they allow you to bring your own brake parts to install (This point is very important!!) vs the ones they normally offer.
All of those also goes with your personal acquired braking techniques. In other words, you need to base it on what your last set of brake pads if OEM lasted in miles?
The brake pads chosen the brake disc/rotors as well directly influence how each wear and their end level of braking performance will be.
It also depends on what you want in braking performance. There is a balance between improved braking performance , brake dust and long longevity.
I suppose you could and should even include the warranty and who will be installing them/
Shops warranty for labor warranty is different from the parts warranty and if they allow you to bring your own brake parts to install (This point is very important!!) vs the ones they normally offer.
All of those also goes with your personal acquired braking techniques. In other words, you need to base it on what your last set of brake pads if OEM lasted in miles?
The brake pads chosen the brake disc/rotors as well directly influence how each wear and their end level of braking performance will be.
Last edited by Callisto; Aug 4, 2025 at 10:21 AM.
I ran DBA T2 rotors on my Mazda 3 & CX-5. Also matching DBA brake pads.
https://dba.com.au/products/brake-rotors/street-series/
https://dba.com.au/products/brake-pa...t-performance/
Last edited by grim_reaper; Aug 9, 2025 at 04:22 AM.
That said, I do realize that on a race course, there are times that this method is preferred and taught.......but I'm referencing general road driving.
One of my pet peeves is to notice how other drivers, on the road around me as I drive, use their brakes. I absolutely despise (in North America anyways) how some people use their left foot to brake with, instead of removing their right foot from the gas pedal, and applying the brake with their right foot, as you are generally taught when learning to drive. Most have no idea how they are shortening their brake pad life by doing this. Not to mention, in a panic stopping situation, most of them will depress BOTH feet.........and that right foot is on the gas pedal! You see this in older people when have an accident.......they still have their foot on the gas pedal.
What I really hate is the stop light creepers. Those are the people that stop suddenly and to close behind you at RED traffic lights and when you try to make a little more clearance, they lift their foot off the brake just enough to slowly creep up to close the distance. This is also the same as leaving I will leave 1/2 car ( more depending on the where I am) distance and watching as#heads coming up fast on your rear and you wonder are they going to stop and are their brakes in good enough condition to stop before re-ending you?
This stopping technique can be technically seen by how the front suspension dives down as they stop. Then they wonder why their brakes don't last very long??? 
I've gotten my pads and rotors from rockauto for most of my cars. Akebono, Centric, Powerstop, Raybestos, and Wagner are all good pads. I usually get the ceramic pads. I've noticed that mid-priced coated rotors work the best for me. It's just as cheap to get new rotors as it is to get them turned, so I usually collect all the old rotors and take to scrap dealer every 10 years. Last time I got $25 back.
You should be having all disc/rotor check before installing them anyway. For anything else to make sure they are trued.


