I thought the entire transfer case needed to be replaced if I wanted the updated part, no? Can you elaborate on which part(s) would be updated in that scenario and approx. # hours labor? Cheers! Sorry if I misunderstood your earlier messages.

I'm not comfortable with the dremel option, but mostly because my mechanic isn't. Maybe that's a mistake on my part, but I don't have an informed opinion on this.

It all comes down to cost-benefit analysis in the end. Is it worth potentially weakening/damaging part of the car with a dremel for the benefit of changing the transfer case oil? Is it worth the $$$ to replace parts or do the 7-hour labor to safely access the drain plug? Etc. I'm relying on people with expertise to advise on this since I don't know. For now, it seems the "risk" of not replacing the transfer case oil is probably the best route, but curious to hear thoughts.

 

The cast aluminum part if the Dremel is use correctly and then a slight smoothing and semi polishing would not only not diminish the parts strength
but likely add to its strength. That’s what smoothing out the casting does.

The parts for the conversion are available from Mazda parts department which a skilled and certified in this century specifically some real certifications at least since 2000 and having 5 year experience should
be able to change the parts in less then 3 hour if the shop has the correct hoist and support brackets .

 

I was unable to get anything out of my local Mazda dealer regarding this issue other than "it takes 6-7 hours to remove and reinstall the catalytic converter to change the transfer case oil, and therefore our customers don't ever do it". If you can help advise on specific part #'s or dealer(s) to speak to, I would love to go back to them to get a quote on this upgrade. I am also in NorCal.

 

I agree it's a simple task to just grind a small amount of alloy out of the road. My question before jumping to conclusion with a silly class action is you may find Mazda claim the oil is for life like many other manufacturers these days.Class action out the door big time. I have seen a manufacturer that made a manual transmission with no drain plug. Go figure.

 

Yup …dealership go by the flat rate labor time as under the Mazda corp service time for any service. And they are looking at every step with the labor time and adding them together . It normal practice but every step is not necessary if the can use more then one bay . However most dealerships tend to discourage that because it often could slow down work by needing 2 bays for one service job. In the end the shop looses money ,they know this so they add every listed labor points to do the job. Most independent service shops as well. Some more customer friendly service shops will look at the job consult with there better experienced shop people and many times come up with a better service action steps then even set by the OE to reduce the labor time total. You would need to shop around your specific location and hopefully find one. I would first start with looking up ASE shops. In Your area there are actually several mobile mechanics that are professionals who just got tired of working for someone that you can contact as well. The only challenge is how they would get around the ease of using a hoist. I suppose you could do the service with a portable set of quick jacks and a couple of floor jacks?

Sorry I don’t give out part numbers unless the VIN is used for look up and the newer year Mazda that replaced the non serviced drain plug area is technically not applicator for Your Mazda. At least by the basic information without the VIN . This would be the shop and person doing the service to get the parts.

 

There are also a few with no drain plugs for automatic transmission as well . But that’s common dating back a few decades to present. At times a mess doing a simple pan drop and filter service. One slip up when removing the pan and letting it slip out of your hands in the hoisted drain pan and you get an ATF fluid bath. lol

 

That's fine, can you just tell me the name of the part? I'm unclear specifically what part is obstructing the drain plug.

 

If you are asking for the shop then my advise find another shop. This is a non-applicated OEM part from Mazda. So as such I can't in good faith write any more about the part that I have not already done. For you I really recommend the Dremel method.
Try searching for "changing rear differential and transfer case fluid , CX30 forum. It is a bunch of DIY that you can give a better idea how the Dremel method is used to resolve the clearance issue. Maybe take a little more time and go slower with the Dremel . LOL You will understand if you find that thread.