Rear Camber Link
#1
04-13-2008, 04:41 PM
Rear Camber Link
Just installed some Progress Springs this weekend. I have an 04 Mazda3 S 5door. I've read mixed reviews on camber kits from a couple of different forums, but have decided that it's a good idea.Tire wear is a concern for me. The springs dropped the car 1.3" all the way around. I've looked around a little and have come accross these camber links. I'd appreciate any feedback or other suggestions are welcome as well.
Thanks in advance!
http://www.streetunit.com/SPC_Camber..._3_p/67420.htm
http://www.mazdaparts.org/ma3recali.html
Thanks in advance!
http://www.streetunit.com/SPC_Camber..._3_p/67420.htm
http://www.mazdaparts.org/ma3recali.html
#2
04-13-2008, 06:10 PM
RE: Rear Camber Link
My vote:
Yes, I painted them blue for my own reasons, but they are very heavy-duty and adjustable, and can be had on eBay cheaper than the MS equivilent which are not adjustable.
Tire wear is an issue for me too, as is handling. I have discovered that reducing the negative camber in the rear (or adding some positive toe)adds up to more exciting handling for my style of driving.
MM, shoulda' done a poll on this.... the outcome might've been interesting to see.
#3
04-13-2008, 09:07 PM
RE: Rear Camber Link
Hey virgin1
Thanks for the input. I was leaning toward those links as well because of the adjustability. Have you installed them? Is it a difficult install? Looks like pretty tightquarters to work in, but only2 bolts per side.Any tips?Thanks again for theinstall guide for the springs!
Thanks for the input. I was leaning toward those links as well because of the adjustability. Have you installed them? Is it a difficult install? Looks like pretty tightquarters to work in, but only2 bolts per side.Any tips?Thanks again for theinstall guide for the springs!
#4
04-13-2008, 10:57 PM
RE: Rear Camber Link
You have to drop the rear suspension cradle about 1" in order to get the bolts out of the camber links.
I used the Mazdaspeed links with Eibach Prokit springs and the alignment was dead on nominal afterward. (-1 degree camber)
I used the Mazdaspeed links with Eibach Prokit springs and the alignment was dead on nominal afterward. (-1 degree camber)
#5
04-13-2008, 11:59 PM
RE: Rear Camber Link
ORIGINAL: sstlaure
You have to drop the rear suspension cradle about 1" in order to get the bolts out of the camber links.
I used the Mazdaspeed links with Eibach Prokit springs and the alignment was dead on nominal afterward. (-1 degree camber)
You have to drop the rear suspension cradle about 1" in order to get the bolts out of the camber links.
I used the Mazdaspeed links with Eibach Prokit springs and the alignment was dead on nominal afterward. (-1 degree camber)
What are the factory limits for camber? I know I've seen informatoin somewhere, but can't seem to find it. Is the Prokit drop similar to Progress (1.3" on all 4 corners). It's wierd because theplace I purchased my springs from didn't give me a difinitive "yes" or "no" if a camber kit was necessary. All they recommended was that I should get an alignment - which I knew I should do anyway. Do you have any install suggestions/tips fora nooB DIY'ers?
#6
04-14-2008, 02:33 PM
RE: Rear Camber Link
MM,
If you look at that install sheet I sent you, and your right it was SSTL that sent it to me, it has install instructions on the bottom for the camber links too.You will have to lower the rear cradle 1-3", which amounts to six bolts, and the fuel return flow valve has to be taken down from it's holder for access to the RS link. Other than that, it's seems rather easy!!
What thatpart of the sheet does not include (?) are the torque specs for the bolts.
No, I haven't yet taken the plunge. Too much to do around here, @ work and with a wife who wants to turn our humble abode into the Taj Mahal and is not very forgiving about doing "non-essential" repairs to the car "when there's so much else to be done around here...." Well, you get the idea. [&o]
#7
04-14-2008, 09:55 PM
RE: Rear Camber Link
ORIGINAL: virgin1
MM,
If you look at that install sheet I sent you, and your right it was SSTL that sent it to me, it has install instructions on the bottom for the camber links too.You will have to lower the rear cradle 1-3", which amounts to six bolts, and the fuel return flow valve has to be taken down from it's holder for access to the RS link. Other than that, it's seems rather easy!!
What thatpart of the sheet does not include (?) are the torque specs for the bolts.
No, I haven't yet taken the plunge. Too much to do around here, @ work and with a wife who wants to turn our humble abode into the Taj Mahal and is not very forgiving about doing "non-essential" repairs to the car "when there's so much else to be done around here...." Well, you get the idea. [&o]
MM,
If you look at that install sheet I sent you, and your right it was SSTL that sent it to me, it has install instructions on the bottom for the camber links too.You will have to lower the rear cradle 1-3", which amounts to six bolts, and the fuel return flow valve has to be taken down from it's holder for access to the RS link. Other than that, it's seems rather easy!!
What thatpart of the sheet does not include (?) are the torque specs for the bolts.
No, I haven't yet taken the plunge. Too much to do around here, @ work and with a wife who wants to turn our humble abode into the Taj Mahal and is not very forgiving about doing "non-essential" repairs to the car "when there's so much else to be done around here...." Well, you get the idea. [&o]
I'm pretty tight on time as well. Lucky to get the springs on. My wife doesn't want the Taj Mahal, but she is pregnant with twins and we're only a few weeks away so we've been immerced in baby stuff [
]...always something to do here too so I feel your pain.I'll try to get some pic's posted soon with the drop.
Thanks again for all the info!!
#8
04-14-2008, 10:12 PM
RE: Rear Camber Link
"As far as having fun cornering hard, yes, I do that. But if you also remember I said that I had redialed in the rear suspension (admittedly by trial and error, though w/o any error that I can detect.)
You may remember that SST and I were discussing whether the cam bolt in the rear control arm adjusts for camber or toe. I can only say that by pulling in the cam bolt in the rear lower control arm and effectively shortening the control arm, that my rear tires wear much better now, and that corners that used make my rears howl @ 55 can now be easily taken 10mph faster than that. A FWD is susceptible to understeer anyway. Having so much neg camber only makes it more so"
Hey virgin1 - I just found this post from you from a few months ago. Did this minimize the negative camber in the rear? Although, the plan is to do a camber kit, would this be a reasonable temporary fix?
You may remember that SST and I were discussing whether the cam bolt in the rear control arm adjusts for camber or toe. I can only say that by pulling in the cam bolt in the rear lower control arm and effectively shortening the control arm, that my rear tires wear much better now, and that corners that used make my rears howl @ 55 can now be easily taken 10mph faster than that. A FWD is susceptible to understeer anyway. Having so much neg camber only makes it more so"
Hey virgin1 - I just found this post from you from a few months ago. Did this minimize the negative camber in the rear? Although, the plan is to do a camber kit, would this be a reasonable temporary fix?
#9
04-15-2008, 11:34 PM
RE: Rear Camber Link
Support your car on the jackstands and lower the rear cradle using your floor jack. Should work fine.
No problem on the install instructions
Stock camber in the rear is -1 degree, my prokit springs put me at -2.1 (right at the edge of in spec) My prokits were right at a 1" drop, so your camber would be more negative than what I ended up with. I'd recommend the camber links unless you don't mind burning through tires faster.
I never did take a close look at how virgin1 modified his rear camber. The only downside to that over camber links is that by pulling the lower arm in you would be decreasing the track width of the car. By using the camber links, you lengthen the top arm and widen the track a little.
No problem on the install instructions
Stock camber in the rear is -1 degree, my prokit springs put me at -2.1 (right at the edge of in spec) My prokits were right at a 1" drop, so your camber would be more negative than what I ended up with. I'd recommend the camber links unless you don't mind burning through tires faster.
I never did take a close look at how virgin1 modified his rear camber. The only downside to that over camber links is that by pulling the lower arm in you would be decreasing the track width of the car. By using the camber links, you lengthen the top arm and widen the track a little.
#10
04-17-2008, 01:05 AM
RE: Rear Camber Link
ORIGINAL: sstlaure
Support your car on the jackstands and lower the rear cradle using your floor jack. Should work fine.
No problem on the install instructions
Stock camber in the rear is -1 degree, my prokit springs put me at -2.1 (right at the edge of in spec) My prokits were right at a 1" drop, so your camber would be more negative than what I ended up with. I'd recommend the camber links unless you don't mind burning through tires faster.
I never did take a close look at how virgin1 modified his rear camber. The only downside to that over camber links is that by pulling the lower arm in you would be decreasing the track width of the car. By using the camber links, you lengthen the top arm and widen the track a little.
Support your car on the jackstands and lower the rear cradle using your floor jack. Should work fine.
No problem on the install instructions
Stock camber in the rear is -1 degree, my prokit springs put me at -2.1 (right at the edge of in spec) My prokits were right at a 1" drop, so your camber would be more negative than what I ended up with. I'd recommend the camber links unless you don't mind burning through tires faster.
I never did take a close look at how virgin1 modified his rear camber. The only downside to that over camber links is that by pulling the lower arm in you would be decreasing the track width of the car. By using the camber links, you lengthen the top arm and widen the track a little.
