Hi all,
I was hoping that someone could please help me. I need to get rear camber arms put on my car (I just found out through my ruined tires). I've decided to buy the part myself. Does anyone have any sugestions of a good brand to buy?? I found some on ebay but I'm clueless as to what would be the best brand. I don't want any cheapies that will break soon. Thanks for the help.

 

I ran the Mazdaspeed camber links for a good 30,000 miles with no issues (then sold the car)

Don't go cheap on suspension parts.

Is your car lowered? In not, you just need to regularly rotate the tires to avoid the wear issues you're reporting.

 

The SBC"s (often seen on eBay)are also a respected brand name and are adjustable.

 

No the car isn't lowered. I just purchased it not too long ago and took it to have the tires rotated for the first time.When they went to rotate the tires they found that the rear tireswere cupped and it was dueto the car beingoutof align. They tried toalign the tiresbut they said that mazdas couldn't be aligned and I need the rear camber arms to fix the problem. So my plan isto buy the part and then have my mechanic put it on. I really don't know hardly anything about cars which is why I'm asking which brand of camber arms to buy.

 

OEM parts is a good star, unless you want better handling.

 

Camberlinks only adjust camber. The rear suspension is adjustable for both toe and caster.

Cupping of the tread I would think is a toe issue which the camber links won't fix.

Stock camber on the rear of the 3 is -1 degree. When I dropped mine with Eibach Prokit springs it went to -2.1, with the camber links it was right back at -1. You'd be putting your rear suspension at 0.0 to +0.1 and that would negatively impact the handling of the car IMO.

With the -1 degree I was getting 40,000+ miles out of Toyo Proxes FZ4 Z-rated tires.

 

I have a Mazda 3 (2004) and in the rear, my tires wear on the inside also.
They say they can fix it with an aftermarket lower control arm which lets you adjust
the camber more. They told me it runs $600-$800 for parts and labor. I have had my alignment checked, printed out, maintained tire pressure, rotated, etc. It's a Mazda problem.
It handles great, but I'm so sick of the road noise that just gets louder as they wear
and cup. I'll keep it for a little while longer and will take the tire off the rim and
flip it so the worn will be on the outside and then it can proceed to wear on the inside.
It's already in toe and in caster adjustment, but the camber needs to be more adjusted to help
correct the problem. Then the question is how it will affect the car after. I don't think
I will buy another Mazda because of this problem that everyone is having with tire wear.
It's all over and don't believe it's an air pressure or alignment problem. Unfortunately, It's called
Mazda sacrificed good handling through wearing of tires. Good luck. Let us know if it corrects your problem and how it drives after it's installed.

 

There are aftermarket Camber links that adjust for a whole lot cheaper.
BTW it is not just Mazda that wears tires bad on its IRS, it is all of them, but with Proper Rotation it does curb the effect.

 

IDK but I have a 04 3 with some Hankooks on my Msr's and i don't have a problem with wear any faster in the rear. I have them rotated about once a month about every 3k for me. I have a free rotation program with Dobbs and other tire dealers have similar programs when you buy high dollar rims or tires. it takes them like 10 min to put it up rotate and balance and put it down for free...

I've been looking at a set of Eibach springs but one, you get faster tire wear and two, you are putting extra pressure on shocks and you'll just go through them quicker..

I really don't get the ponit of lowering springs and huge suspension upgrades unless you are two things a circuit racer which i don't know too may circuit events for street cars, at least in my state, and two you are putting so much power to the wheels to where you need to keep it on the ground. Running a couple of mods isn't the need for a suspension upgrade. Lowering the car like an 1" to 1.5" isn't making a huge aerodynamic increase to make it faster my 04 sedan has a drag .32 (not sure about the hatches) but that number is pretty competetive in our class of cars compared to civcs and carolloas colbats g5's g6's ect...

 

There are a lot of reasons to lower a vehicle, handling, looks and function ability.
My F150 is lowered 3/4, and handles 200% better than it did stock, plus to me it looks better also.
I will lower my 3 also, but I like to drive and I want the Center of Gravity to sink a little, between the lowering, Different tires and update the anti-sway bars I think it will be pretty sweet.