Hey all
Just want some opinions here. I have a2013 Mazda 3. 200,000km. So I had one of my rear shock mounts fail. Took to a shop and they put new rear shock mounts in and 2 rear shocks (they were due to be done). They put in mid level Monroe shocks.
Almost immediately it felt off. Very floaty on highway and just not right around town. On a flat surface if I push on the corner on the side where the mount gave, it s easy to push down on it. I can get a pretty good bounce going but it does seem to stop fairly fast when I step away. The other side on the rear is much stiffer and not easy to compress at all. I cannot get the same bounce going as I could on the other side. I looked as much as I could at the new shocks and do not see any leaks or liquid on them at all. I'm not sure how scientific this bounce method is but there is a noticeable difference, and both of these shocks are brand new and installed last week
I took it back and told them the issue and they checked it and said they are fine, but also said my front right ball joint boot is ripped and has a very small amount of play in it so I need a new control arm with the ball joint on that side. They also said something about my steering column has a bit of play in it which could account for the floaty feeling.

I'm taking it somewhere else tomorrow for a second opinion, but I guess my questions are
1. Does this seem like one of the shocks is bad even though there is no oil leaking out. Could something else be causing it to be compressed fairly easy on one side compared to the other
2. Is the ball joint issue a safety concern? There is a clunk coming from that area so I think they are right on that.
Just looking to have some knowledge before going to the other shop tomorrow
Thanks everyone
Dave


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It’s not the new Monroe shocks …. For numerous reasons
The “old school” rebound and compression test of dampeners does not really work with high pressure gas dampeners only hydraulic type dampeners.

Everything needs to be inspected by a competent and “real” trained mechanic or better a certified mechanic or Auto technician.You have to many chassis and suspension concerns that can’t be safely answered on any forum for your own safety

Dave sorry but I have no idea what service quality or what type of auto mechanics you have where you live.

 

That's fair. the places I do go to are well known and trusted. I live in a city of 500,000 so we have good places that have beenaround many many years. The place im going tomorrow has been my go to for years. They'll be doing a full check on everything

It just seems too coincidental that as soon as they put new shocks in, it feels very floaty on the highway,. So that's why my brain went to the shocks as the issue, but obviously I'm not a mechanic haha
All I do know is that it is way easier to compress the driver's side rear compared to the passenger side, and that difference I would think is causing that feeling on the highway.

Thanks for the feedback! Callisto. This car has definitely been an adventure lately lol. Coincidentally the mount broke an hour after I took the extra oil out of of the engine that Mazda overfilled during the oil change haha.
Cheers
Dave

 

You would need to compression them very fast and not just do a *causal bounce(*very old school only for oil only filled dampener's). . And technically speaking unless the tubes are damage or signs of oil leaks then the high-pressure gas is still sealed.
Just because a service shop has a long history mean little if they do not have a currently trained via school or accredited automotive institution and a certification from at least the last 20 years and more so if they are servicing vehicles manufactured from about 2015 to present. You just can't learn by experience because they wil get a large percentage of things diagnosed incorrectly or take long and charge you for finding the problems out especially with the electronics. As an example, my Auto cortication I must pay and test every 3 years to keep them current and that is only for 2 categories of certification. Been doing that every 3 years for over 30+ years now $$$$ All my mechanic and auto tech have at least certification in the last 10 years or sooner or I would not have supported to hire them to work in our service shop.
BTW Mazda dealership are not required to have any specific level of certification nor are they required to have a Mazda factory trained mechanic working in their shops. The only requirement for any person working on a Mazda is having to do with a SAFTY system or SAFTY recall.* *And then the work must be meticulous inspected to be signed of as complete. **At least that is what Mazda implies?