I just bought this 2011 mazda 3s GT Hatchback and I found a few things that I want to do. First and foremost I want to say thanks to anyone who can point me in the right direction. I want to change out the whole headlight assemblies but i no longer want the HID's. Is there a conversion kit out there that i can get to change my OEM HID to Halogen? Thanks for the help.

 

I find myself scratching my head to figure out why anybody would want to downgrade their headlights to Halogen from HID. I sense there is more to this story.

 

Hi,
My issue is the headlight on my 2010 Mazda 3 was hit and broken. It is the HID with autoleveling. New cost is around $1k, used is around $600 and HID without auto-leveling looks to be around $350. My car is close to 200k miles, so I am not wanting to put a lot of money into it. Can I swap the headlight wire harness to a "halogen" headlight wire harness and purchase a halogen replacement? Can I purchase a HID non AL headlight and transfer the auto-leveling servo part to it?
Or does anyone have a recommendation on how I could get the replacement headlight for a reasonable cost?

Thank
Justin

 

Yes you can buy a pair of standard headlights from the wreckers, ask for a section of wiring loom to help with rewiring them. They will most likely have different wiring plugs.

 

I know how you all feel about resurecting old threads, but I feel like we did not get an answer here if it worked and how it was done and I don't like starting redundant threads. Our daughters 2010 Mazda 3 HID auto leveling headlights were both full of water and the ballasts were flooded and obviously broke, the dealer wants $1,400 per headlight and the Interwebs want $1,000 each, so I went out and bought two used basic model Halogens at the junkyard with no running lights, as simple as it gets, and I have succesfully adopted the HID wiring harness to them

Turns Signal / Parking Light is exactly the same and just snaps right in - no changes needed
Low Bean - I cut off the HID plug that ran to the ballast and soldered the Halogen low beam plug to it, works great
High Beam - I don't know how to get these working hence the post
Running Lights - her car per the VIN does not have running lights (although the current HID assemblies have running lights and running lights wiring harness in them but they don't work, someone must have swapped the original ones out at some point and installed these in) so I am not worrying about those, but for extra credit if you could tell me if there is some way to make the running lights come one, enable them in the computer or what ever that would be great

 

I think this is relatable

HID Headlights HI/LO Switching

 

welcome to my Headlight Hell

 

Can you convert HID headlights to "regular" Halogen? YES

here's how I did it

1. buy the regular halogen headlights with their wire harness on the back and bulbs at a junkyard (make sure they have most of the three clips/brackets if not its not the end of the world) I paid anywhere between $30 and $40 bucks for mine (these may come as super basic aka no running lights or what I call basic with running lights) FYI the lights in the chin of your car are Fog Lights not running lights, the running lights are an extra light bulb inside the actual headlight housing

2. take the black and red wires that go to the HID ballast and cut the plug off then solder on a pig tail from a regular Halogen wire harness you can snip one off at a junkyard, 97% of wrecked Mazda 3s at the junkyard have regular lights not the HIDs lol

What about High Beams, sorry guys I don't know how to make the high beams work, that's why I posted that guys video so you can see how the HIDs operate. Feel free to learn me how to make the high beams work in this swap / conversion.






I'm gonna pepper in a bunch of buzz words in here cause I had a hell of a time finding anything on this: HID, headlights, Halogen, conversion, swap

 

 

Hello all, and Gregski particularly,

This weekend I successfully transitioned from the HID assembly to Halogen one, but I didn't do it the way you did.

For context, I have the Canadian version of 2010 Mazda 3 GT with the HIDs, DRLs, and AFS. I also have access to AllData, so I could check the wiring diagrams. The connectors for each assembly, stock, has 14 wires. However, the colors on the car didn't match the colors from the diagram, but the location of each pin matched.

I attached a bunch of PDFs for reference. I also put a reference for myself to know which car wire should be solder to which assembly wire. Important note: my own connector drawing is from when you look inside the connector; while the connector diagram from AllData is when you look from behind the connector.

I tested all pins using my multimeter and switch the lights on and off. Some pins (for AFS) were hot at all times.

Basically, I got used Halogen assemblies from a junkyard, and took the assembly wirings along with it, and also cut the car side of the connectors, so that I have matching connectors and pins (the pins that go into the HID connector are not the same model of pins that go into the halogen connector).

When you solder the ballast wires directly to the halogen low beam connector, you just directly connected it without going through the harness. However, that blocks the way of connecting the high beams.

But basically, as you can see from all the diagrams attached, you need to take the white wire from the car's connector and link it to the wire that will become the wire in the assembly connector.

Since my car came with DRLs, the wiring is very different than if Halogens came with DRLs. So I thought safer to not connect any DRLs (it is mandatory for manufacturers in Canada to make cars with DRLs, but it is not mandatory for drivers to have them (I think..?)). So no more DRLs for me, but I don't mind. Their purpose is for people to see you, not for you to see.

I cut and solder all used wires (1 low, 1 high, 1 parking, 1 flasher, 2 grounds), and protected all unsed (1 ground, 1 DRL, and 6 AFS) using shrinking tubes (I don't think tape alone is safe); as you can see in the picture below.

The whole thing took about 4-5hrs, mostly because of the unpinning and soldering of the wires together, since the pins aren't compatible.

Hope this helps! It took me a lot of time understanding the diagrams, so feel free to ask questions if needed.