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Not all of us make the big bucks like you my friend.
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I am not trying to be a jerk, I was just pointing out that the mazda parts seem relatively cheap in comparison to my STi parts. Sorry if I hurt your feel goods. :(
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Well, it was cheaper when I bought mine 4yrs ago, and there are cheaper systems out there than the Vib. In fact it is one of the more expensive ones for the NA engine. The truth is I am frustrated that I haven't found that this car lends itself well to simple mods. In order to do it right, you'd practically have to rebuild everything and most important, replace the ECU w/an expensive stand alone. No one that I know of has successfully re-tuned the stock ECU. Without that, you're looking at a minimum of $1600 to replace it just to get started. In other words, you have to be willing to completely commit to it. I've built older cars (limited or no ECU in the mix) using junkyard parts where I saw more improvement in performance. These newer cars are much much harder, and the cost of adding HP has gone up exponentially. I'm not going to pull the drivetrain, do a complete rebuild, add a turbo, deal with all the other sensor/CEL issues that will surly crop up in the process, etc. when the Mazdaspeed has already done that... and added an LSD and a 6-sp too! Though that's another good idea IMO. Add an LSD while you're doing the flywheel/clutch. 'Only one I know of is again, about $1600. (flywheel= +/-$300, Stg1 clutch= +/-$300, LSD= +/-$1600 = +/-$2200 over the cost of the car.) I don't have to time, the money, the understanding wife or all the other resources it takes these days. She got pissed when I bought new wheels for it, and I shopped for a long time and got a deal too. "$1250!! For wheels you DON'T NEED!!?? We could've put that money into the house!!" Of course she is right, but all work and no play make Jack a dull boy too. I've all but given up trying to improve engine performance, though I am sure it (2.0L/2.3L) has the potential. H*ll, I was able to noticably pump up my old Civic with mostly just using my brain, some junkyard parts from other cars retro-fitting them as needed and some tools. All I can say to you is, if you have the money (especially the money,) the time and resources, and your wife/girlfriend will understand, more power to ya', Man. It can be done, I'm sure. It's just a matter of how bad you want it. |
My wife has the same argument with me :rolleyes: I have spent way too much money on my STi. Now I bring up modding Her Mazda and she gets :mad: We will see what happens. But I am not anticipating much gain from basic bolt-ons.
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Making the most of the power that's already there might be enough. On the other hand, too much grip w/o the power to back it up might be anticlimactic. Consider suspension, over engine/power mods, instead. Though the flywheel/clutch would probably be a good idea either way. |
I would agree. on most of these posts here.. I mean an intake is an intake and on most cars you are going to see a little power gain, mostly unnoticeable and you see an increase in mpg. Same with exhaust. I have been talking to some people on you tube about some people who have done some major tuning on 3's and going with the Haltech f10x kit from hi boost i think its $700 and just fine tuning it will make a world of difference even using stock injectors and so on. I am probably going to end up getting it anyway because i have an intake with full block back exhaust from the obx header, (with down pipe combo which everyone swore it would cause a CEL but i've had it on for 200mi now and no cel) 2.5 in piping back no resonators, nothing... the "downpipe" the obx sells on ebay which i got is nothing more than a resonator which surprising still has not thrown a cel. So i have a resonator and a thrush 2.5in glasspack are the only restrictions i have..I'm surprised the car runs with the insane lack of back pressure.
Even though ECU "learns" and "adjusts" the a/f to the new bolt ons I don't think it is all quite "there". with the header and down pipe combo now it definitely sounds dry and raspy around the 4k rpm mark, I'm pretty sure its running pretty lean. Definitely more pep off the line thats for sure but with the Haltech, and fine tuning it, I'm hoping to see some decent gains, Not necessarily boost gains but decent gains for sure. My goal is to hit around 180 from the 150 stock. |
30 crank hp gains are a decent bump. I found from tuning with my subaru that the "butt" dyno doesn't really notice much of a gain under 20. Good info though mzdaspd304.
What have you done to balance the car? suspension, braking wise? |
Ive been focusing my research on suspension since i already have the power section down (at least for my car ;)). For this it would be better to stick with the mazdaspeed (not the speed3) strut package, sway bars and rear camber adjusters, then get the road magnet springs or mazdaspeed springs, that setup will give a firm feel without sacrificing comfort i.e wont knock your teeth out if you hit a speed bump to fast and this will not slam the car which is good.
As for brakes the rotors you dont need to really get a different set like slotted or drilled or bigger ones just get a decent set of brake pads such as the Hawk series or EBC. |
Honestly I haven't done anything to the suspension to this car at all, i have a nice set of ebc brakes with my stock rotors and they seem to be doing just fine...Its starting to get a bit squeaky in back so i'm thinking about with some new struts and sway bars. I'm thinking eibach, I haven't done much research on this yet but it seems like everyone sticks with the speed3 parts. But I'm also 22 and don't mind if my teeth get knocked out. I mean my dad used to have a 95 z28 camaro and that thing would grip the road like no other but kill your back and give you a headache. it was like riding the oldest wooden roller coaster you could find.
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if you upgrade your motor mounts which i suggest cuz they are a POS and if you want to stick with a comfortable ride, don't go with the TRZ mount. I have a rear TRZ mount and it will rattle the hell out of you, it seriously controls the engine kickback when you launch off the line for some way better torque, definitely good if you plan to race, but for a DD it will kill you lol. but it doesn't seem like you will with this car especially if you have a STi. They make new I think, don't quote me on this, polyeurthane, i think, mounts that replace the ****ty rubber ones in now. I think they are like 60 bucks. I think some people on here have them. they seem to work well and will control the engine and wont break down like the rubber ones
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