2014 Mazda 3 hatch roof rack alternatives?
#1
2014 Mazda 3 hatch roof rack alternatives?
Hi-- Anyone know of any reasonably priced roof rack systems (as opposed to the expensive Thule and Yakima versions) for my new 2014 hatchback? I need to carry two kayaks very occasionally. The fixed point Thule I had for my 2010 won't fit
#3
I'm in upstate NY, USA.
All they have is genuine Mazda parts, so I'd have to get the removable roof rack and roof ditch moldings with access windows. These would run around $325 for the bare roof bars, which are not wide enough for our 2 kayaks.
The Thule setup I had on my 2010 had bars which were long enough to carry the two 'yaks upside down and side by side. I never used kayak carriers-- I just strapped them down with locking straps and it worked well enough to drive 70mph. Unfortunately, Thule doesn't show any fixed point racks for the 2014.
I'm wondering-- if I got those roof ditch moldings to give me access to the fixation points if I couldn't make the necessary rack foot adapters to make my old rack work?
If the feet leaked into the area under the roof ditch, would it drain safely away or into the roof of the car?
The only inexpensive option I see is a rack that attaches temporarily to the roof via straps connected inside the car via nylon straps. They say that these can cause leaks around the door gaskets in heavy rain, but might be passable for occasional, fair weather use. These run about $65 online.
All they have is genuine Mazda parts, so I'd have to get the removable roof rack and roof ditch moldings with access windows. These would run around $325 for the bare roof bars, which are not wide enough for our 2 kayaks.
The Thule setup I had on my 2010 had bars which were long enough to carry the two 'yaks upside down and side by side. I never used kayak carriers-- I just strapped them down with locking straps and it worked well enough to drive 70mph. Unfortunately, Thule doesn't show any fixed point racks for the 2014.
I'm wondering-- if I got those roof ditch moldings to give me access to the fixation points if I couldn't make the necessary rack foot adapters to make my old rack work?
If the feet leaked into the area under the roof ditch, would it drain safely away or into the roof of the car?
The only inexpensive option I see is a rack that attaches temporarily to the roof via straps connected inside the car via nylon straps. They say that these can cause leaks around the door gaskets in heavy rain, but might be passable for occasional, fair weather use. These run about $65 online.
#4
On the new model you remove the entire roof gutter trim & refit a new trim that has the cut outs & caps just like the previous model.
( Why they didn't fit the replacement trim at factory)
For the factory "Wisper bar" roof racks in Australia there is a M6 nut/thread in the framework of the roof/gutter, we screw a M6 stud in, drop the rack end over the top & fit 1 big plastic wing nut to secure it.
Popping the gutter trim out is easy if you start from the very front behind the windscreen trim, it just pops out as you slowly lift it up and all the way along.
You may be able to adapt your old model racks to fit the new model fixing point.
( Why they didn't fit the replacement trim at factory)
For the factory "Wisper bar" roof racks in Australia there is a M6 nut/thread in the framework of the roof/gutter, we screw a M6 stud in, drop the rack end over the top & fit 1 big plastic wing nut to secure it.
Popping the gutter trim out is easy if you start from the very front behind the windscreen trim, it just pops out as you slowly lift it up and all the way along.
You may be able to adapt your old model racks to fit the new model fixing point.
#5
Thanks for the information Reaper. I popped off the trim and found those threaded nuts in the gutter. I also verified for myself that the gutter has no places where water could leak
into the bodywork of the car. I test fitted my Thule's feet into the gutter and they are as near a perfect fit as I can see. Mine are a generation or so old, so they don't show up in the current online fitting guide.
Interestingly, I'm going to have to move the feet outward on my square bars. I knew the 2014 had a wider track but I was surprised to see how much wider it is. This is good because on my 2010 the long rack bars stuck 'way out.
Off to order the new gutter trim. Again, thanks.
into the bodywork of the car. I test fitted my Thule's feet into the gutter and they are as near a perfect fit as I can see. Mine are a generation or so old, so they don't show up in the current online fitting guide.
Interestingly, I'm going to have to move the feet outward on my square bars. I knew the 2014 had a wider track but I was surprised to see how much wider it is. This is good because on my 2010 the long rack bars stuck 'way out.
Off to order the new gutter trim. Again, thanks.
#6
These are the part numbers for the roof/gutter mouldings ( Australian spec)
BHY1509H0 Roof moulds - sedan RHS • • • • • •
BHY1509L0 Roof moulds - sedan LHS • • • • • •
BHY2509H0 Roof moulds - hatch RHS • • • • • •
BHY2509L0 Roof moulds - hatch LHS • • • • • •
BHY1509H0 Roof moulds - sedan RHS • • • • • •
BHY1509L0 Roof moulds - sedan LHS • • • • • •
BHY2509H0 Roof moulds - hatch RHS • • • • • •
BHY2509L0 Roof moulds - hatch LHS • • • • • •
#9
I don't really recall exactly what I have, apart from the square rack bars. I got the feet about 10 years ago, originally for a PT cruiser. I had to get a new "fit kit" for my previous Mazda 3. Once I got the gutter trim with the holes, I was pleasantly surprised to see that my old Mazda 3 stuff fit once I adjusted the width of the feet on the bars. Sorry I couldn't help more.