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When I turn on my car, everything seems fine, no problems starting, I turn on the Blower in the middle position to blow at person...
when I switch it to blow on the windshield, the RPM like falls, like the engine looses power, and then it slowly climbs back (this is just idle) not driving, I think in that setting the compressor kicks in, but after maybe 20 seconds I smell a really bad smell, like something is burning, not electrical.... so this happens only in this setting...
I was driving yesterday and while driving at 45mpg, I turned it into this setting and my car literally died / had to pull over and it wouldn't start at first, I had to wait and then it started after 5 minutes or so, and I turn the blower off, and drove home fine after that, any ideas what could be wrong, did the compressed burned out or something ?
This is a new net problem, never had this problem before, 88K
Last edited by rompstar@gmail.com; Oct 26, 2025 at 09:23 PM.
The HVAC system in your Mazda when you use the defrost setting also activates the AC compressor that’s how it removes the moisture in the passenger area. From the very loose description Ypu may have a compressor concern but this is a guess,
Because electrical system is involved the first thing to do is have the battery load tested. Please now comment about what you think the battery’s health is based on age or that you don’t think there is a battery problem.
The next step only after the battery is confirmed as passing a load tested is with the HVAC system. So when at least I read that result I will give service tests suggestions.
It helps to know how many miles and what was the exact last service done and what was it. Also because of the year at what miles and date was the HVAC system serviced or checked?
So my guess because it seems you live in CA if I knew the county I could possibly suggest a qualified shop to service your Mazda that is experienced in HVAAC systems .
having a better filled out new member info on your profile helps, it also indicates you may stick around
longer then a quick free advise and then gone …
Last edited by Callisto; Oct 26, 2025 at 10:30 PM.
The HVAC system in your Mazda when you use the defrost setting also activates the AC compressor that’s how it removes the moisture in the passenger area. From the very loose description Ypu may have a compressor concern but this is a guess,
Because electrical system is involved the first thing to do is have the battery load tested. Please now comment about what you think the battery’s health is based on age or that you don’t think there is a battery problem.
The next step only after the battery is confirmed as passing a load tested is with the HVAC system. So when at least I read that result I will give service tests suggestions.
It helps to know how many miles and what was the exact last service done and what was it. Also because of the year at what miles and date was the HVAC system serviced or checked?
So my guess because it seems you live in CA if I knew the county I could possibly suggest a qualified shop to service your Mazda that is experienced in HVAAC systems .
having a better filled out new member info on your profile helps, it also indicates you may stick around
longer then a quick free advise and then gone …
I am in Washington State, ya I havn't filled out my Profile fully just yet, the Car has 88K miles / I have another battery and that one is good just had it trickle charged, will let you know later if this behavior goes away or not... thanks!
as for recent Service, no, no service, the car just works - havn't had the need to get any repair work, other than new tires and breaks... oil or put in gas
Last edited by rompstar@gmail.com; Oct 26, 2025 at 10:39 PM.
Trickle charging a battery only can bring it up to 12+ volts. It does not mean the battery is good. The basic load test requires the Battery with most testing equipment to be minimal 12. 50 volts to load test. A load test verifies the health of the battery. Just because the battery may seem like it starts the engine does not mean it’s good. Getting your battery load test is generally a free service at many auto parts stores generally the chain store like NAPA or Pepe boys even Firestone will test a battery for free.
My question for service was when was and what was the last service ….
While it may seem non directed at your current problem, your response is not unlike many I get each week from customers and then we find that some things were related to their current problems,
Last edited by Callisto; Oct 26, 2025 at 10:58 PM.
Trickle charging a battery only can bring it up to 12+ volts. It does not mean the battery is good. The basic load test requires the Battery with most testing equipment to be minimal 12. 50 volts to load test. A load test verifies the health of the battery. Just because the battery may seem like it starts the engine does not mean it’s good. Getting your battery load test is generally a free service at many auto parts stores generally the chain store like NAPA or Pepe boys even Firestone will test a battery for free.
My question for service was when was and what was the last service ….
While it may seem non directed at your current problem, your response is not unlike many I get each week from customers and then we find that some things were related to their current problems,
looks like the Compressor Clutch failed, that is the problem, my friend was a mechanic for 20 years and he took a look, the car works fine without engaging the compressor / for now I will have to do that... get a quote for repair and might as well replace some other things too..
it almost feels like you are looking for some argumentative fight... I am not explaining any further to you, thanks!
No I am wondering why you ask for help and then disregard the information to help you?
I did say in the beginning of my last response that I hope it works out for you?
When I turn on my car, everything seems fine, no problems starting, I turn on the Blower in the middle position to blow at person...
when I switch it to blow on the windshield, the RPM like falls, like the engine looses power, and then it slowly climbs back (this is just idle) not driving, I think in that setting the compressor kicks in, but after maybe 20 seconds I smell a really bad smell, like something is burning, not electrical.... so this happens only in this setting...
I was driving yesterday and while driving at 45mpg in my Can Am Commander, I turned it into this setting and my car literally died/had to pull over and it wouldn't start at first, I had to wait and then it started after 5 minutes or so, and I turn the blower off, and drove home fine after that, any ideas what could be wrong, did the compressor burn out or something?
This is a new net problem, never had this problem before, 88K
Your car’s AC compressor or blower motor is likely failing. When you switch to the windshield/defrost setting the compressor engages causing the engine to stall and producing the burning smell. Get the AC compressor, serpentine belt, and blower motor checked immediately and do not use that setting until it’s repaired.